Wood issues - Ebony

[Newton]

I have the DX kit that includes a sliding hammer, different length probes, the wiring for use with the hammer and a poly case that keeps everything in one place. The wood chart that comes with it has very few of the woods that we use but upon contacting them they sent me a chart with many exotic woods listed for settings. I've had this for a number of years and it still is on the original set of batteries. I've always been happy with it. I've thought about getting another, pin less one, for checking moisture on flat stock without punching holes but have never done it. The pin less one can't be used on round dowels as it must make full contact to get true readings.

Dick

Thanks Dick.

Good to hear that this is something which works for our use.
The hammer, does it punch deep and I expect you can "re-use" the holes to check the drying progress?

Kent

 

[rhncue]

Thanks Dick.

Good to hear that this is something which works for our use.
The hammer, does it punch deep and I expect you can "re-use" the holes to check the drying progress?

Kent

It will drive the pins in fairly deep. Much depends on the hardness of the wood. They have different length pins that go up to 1.5 inch long.

Dick

 

[KJ Cues]

KJ,
Any recommentation on a moisture meter?
thanks, Bill

Hi Bill,

I've got a mini-Ligno, pin type, that I use for wood going into the barn.
I've got a Wagner pin-less that I use at the shop.
Both are inexpensive and handy in size. The pin type is OK for oversize wood that will be turned down, thereby removing the pin holes.
The Wagner pin-less leaves no marks as it 'scans' the wood. It was a little more money but well worth it.
I'm not suggesting either of these or any other brand for that matter. What brand (or type) you choose is up to you. The fact that you would use a meter is much more important than the brand of meter. Use the one that works best for you.

Pardon the metaphor but you need to know how wet the wood is that is in your 'river'. You will learn the wood's drying characteristics, by species and when you might expect to start working your wood. The meter is the tool that helps you do this accurately rather than guessing. You might ask the guys at the local lumber yard what they're using also.

 

[JerseyBill]

meter

Hi Bill,

I've got a mini-Ligno, pin type, that I use for wood going into the barn.
I've got a Wagner pin-less that I use at the shop.
Both are inexpensive and handy in size. The pin type is OK for oversize wood that will be turned down, thereby removing the pin holes.
The Wagner pin-less leaves no marks as it 'scans' the wood. It was a little more money but well worth it.
I'm not suggesting either of these or any other brand for that matter. What brand (or type) you choose is up to you. The fact that you would use a meter is much more important than the brand of meter. Use the one that works best for you.

Pardon the metaphor but you need to know how wet the wood is that is in your 'river'. You will learn the wood's drying characteristics, by species and when you might expect to start working your wood. The meter is the tool that helps you do this accurately rather than guessing. You might ask the guys at the local lumber yard what they're using also.

Thanks, Will do
Bill