Working with synthetic stone materials

Jr's Farm

Jr's Farm

Be inspired!
Silver Member
When it comes to using synthetic or reconstituted Malachite, Azurite, Turquoise, Lapis lazuli and other man-made, stone-like materials for inlays or ringwork, what type of tooling is required for:

- Cutting inlays
- Turning/cutting

I’ve never used any of these materials myself but have seen cues that have, so I know it’s been done, but I was just curious if you have to use diamond cutter heads and coolant or if solid carbide and shallow cuts/slow feed speed would cut it.

Any insight into cutting and working with these materials would be greatly appreciated.
Also, if anyone has any links to sources for purchasing or more info that’d be swell.

Regards,
Frank
 
Jr's Farm said:
When it comes to using synthetic or reconstituted Malachite, Azurite, Turquoise, Lapis lazuli and other man-made, stone-like materials for inlays or ringwork, what type of tooling is required for:

- Cutting inlays
- Turning/cutting

I’ve never used any of these materials myself but have seen cues that have, so I know it’s been done, but I was just curious if you have to use diamond cutter heads and coolant or if solid carbide and shallow cuts/slow feed speed would cut it.

Any insight into cutting and working with these materials would be greatly appreciated.
Also, if anyone has any links to sources for purchasing or more info that’d be swell.

Regards,
Frank
Click to expand...

You use your normal cutters. No need for anything special as it is mostly some form of plastic. It doesn't burn nor melt however. It is just a little brittle so chisels can't be used.

Dick
 
If you cut inlays out of it, USE A MASK. or have an air line that blows it away from you as it gets cut.
 
R.T.Research Corporation

Camille Marks
2107+ 2113 East 5th Street
TEMPE, AZ 85281
U.S.A.
Phone................................(480) 894-0812

You'll need to buy a pretty big chunk of it, but the price is 10 times better than you get from the cue supply places.
 
Sheldon said:
R.T.Research Corporation

Camille Marks
2107+ 2113 East 5th Street
TEMPE, AZ 85281
U.S.A.
Phone................................(480) 894-0812

You'll need to buy a pretty big chunk of it, but the price is 10 times better than you get from the cue supply places.
Click to expand...

How did you find that place? I've Googled many, many times trying to find a source for that stuff. Thanks bunches.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
How did you find that place? I've Googled many, many times trying to find a source for that stuff. Thanks bunches.

Dick
Click to expand...

Spent all morning googling and it never showed up for me either.
I actually stumbled upon them while checking out a pen turning forum.
I'll be talking to them on Monday ;)
 
Thanks for the info so far guys. That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for.

Didn't really realize that the recon stone would be hazardous, but saw plenty of warnings regarding the real stuff. I'll be sure to use the dust collection and a mask then.

Any other points to ponder?

Frank
 
It dulls your bits pretty rapidly, and usually requires a finish pass to clean the parts up. The resin can be a bit sticky, like cocobolo or kingwood, but not quite that bad.
 
Sheldon said:
R.T.Research Corporation

Camille Marks
2107+ 2113 East 5th Street
TEMPE, AZ 85281
U.S.A.
Phone................................(480) 894-0812

You'll need to buy a pretty big chunk of it, but the price is 10 times better than you get from the cue supply places.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the contact info Sheldon. I couldn't find it on their website. :thumbup:

Frank

(Edit: I'm blind! Phone # is on the Home page, not the Contact page!) dee ta dee :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
Sheldon said:
It dulls your bits pretty rapidly, and usually requires a finish pass to clean the parts up. The resin can be a bit sticky, like cocobolo or kingwood, but not quite that bad.
Click to expand...

Sheldon,

Which have you used, the standard stuff or the pliable stuff?
I have a 10" diamond wet saw as well as a 2hp 17" bandsaw for ripping slabs. I have a handful of Timberwolf bandsaw blades, but how many TPI works best? I would have to guess something in the 10TPI range.

Thanks again,
Frank
 
Most of it has been pretty hard. Depending on which kind you get, the hardness of it can vary. The lapis is probably the hardest, and dulls a bandsaw blade real fast.
I have usually just waited until my bandsaw blade is about shot, and then cut a few slabs off of a brick of the stuff before I swap it out. A good stiff blade with a low tooth count seems to be best for me.
The wetsaw might work nicely.
 
Sheldon said:
Most of it has been pretty hard. Depending on which kind you get, the hardness of it can vary. The lapis is probably the hardest, and dulls a bandsaw blade real fast.
I have usually just waited until my bandsaw blade is about shot, and then cut a few slabs off of a brick of the stuff before I swap it out. A good stiff blade with a low tooth count seems to be best for me.
The wetsaw might work nicely.
Click to expand...

I don't know for sure what Masecraft uses but most pieces I have used had circular marks with what looks like a slurry was used. I always just figured they used a cheap, thin, diamond circular wet saw blade. That is probably what I'm going to try.

What kills me is I've bough hundreds upon hundreds of dollars worth of this stuff and now that I'm old and wore out and don't use it nearly as much, I find a cheap place to purchase it.

Dick
 
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