WTB 5/16x18 joint screw

Newton

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I don't do these threads but I have a good friend which owns a old Huebler custom cue which has some "sound" to the joint.
He's wondering if it's the joint screw which has some air pockets and want this changed.
I only need a couple of these to help him out-so ordering from Atlas is out of the equation since they charge A LOT just for the shipping.
My lathe has no imperial lead screw so making this is a pain so I hope some of my friends up here could drop me a couple in the mail.

I can pay with paypal.

Note-my PM inbox is packed so feel free to drop me a email at
info (at) kendocues.com
K
 
Hi Kent,
The condition that you describe would be very rare indeed, though not impossible.
There is a greater likelihood that the 'sound' is coming from the 'A' joint, where the
wrap meets the forearm. I hope I'm wrong on this because a jnt. screw is a much easier fix.
How are you generating the sound?
Generally, when you tap the forearm area to the heel of your hand, a suspect 'A' jnt. will buzz.
Doing the same test with the shaft attached will eliminate the joint-screw as suspect
as the jnt-screw would now be in tension. In other words, the pin would be artificially tightened.
If the buzz persists with the shaft attached and the sound is coming from the forearm,
chances are that the 'A' jnt connection has acquired some tolerance.

You probably don't have the cue in your possession yet so when it comes in, give it
this simple test. I don't like tapping a cue in this manner because cues aren't built
to withstand side forces. However, if done correctly (delicately), you will surely
initiate a buzz if there is one present.

HTH, KJ
 
Just curious But If It's only one cue why the need for 2? I don't use them on My cues anymore either. I still have a couple of them that came from atlas left in stock, but one of them I turned a custom nose on It to reduce the amount of turns required to unscrew It, and It requires a special insert to be made.

I do still have 1 that is original with original bullnose though, and would gladly give It to You if you cover shipping. I sometimes have to replace them for customers, but I have stainless rod, and can make My own when needed from that, so I can spare the one from atlas if It would help you out.

Greg
 
You can always go to Home Depot and spend $8 for a 3 ft long stainless steel 5/16 18 tpi rod and cut 12 3" pins, just a thought.... then you would have some extra's for the future
 
They do not have home depot in Norway.
For the 5/16-18 pins,I use the stainless set screws/grub screws.
They have a more concentric thread form compared to threaded rod.
Anyway, wait until you get the cue before rushing into preconceived ideas.
 
Thank you all for your feedback.
Here is some background info-
The owner wanted me to build him a cue similar to the Huebler, though 30" butt. After a lot of search I managed to get some Gabone, however the wood was so raw that the two squares I started turning moved a lot. I managed to save one however the other one warped like a dogs bone.
Needless to say-I have been babysitting the non warped for over a year.
My buddy was restles and managed to buy his dream cue used-after sweet talking the owner for a long time to agree selling the cue. This is a 1/1 Huebler custom as I understand it.
He shipped the cue to a US cue manufacturer which restored the cue with a new clear and leather wrap.
I do however belieave that the repair included a change of the cues joint collars-since I inspected the used cue before it shipped to the US. There was a small crack in the collar which is now not there.
The owner has a production Huebler which has a certain sound to it. Since this was a cue of not so high value-the bolt was removed and new epoxy added and glued up again. In the process there was a small glue hole squeezing glue out just bellow the collar-and the cue is now quiet.
He want to do the same on this expensive custom to see if this calms it down.

I would call him later today and ask where the sound comes from. KJs method is something many players use over here-just to get the "wibes" on how the cue feels. I'll make sure he has a test run on this.

I'll report back when I know more.

Thanks all.
 
Just a quick update:

The owner managed to get a new pin from a source and had a fellow repair man do the removal and install.
They did however run in to problems with pressurizing the forarm - most likely due to installing the pin to quickly - so they blew the rings and composite joint collar..
I have not seen the cue so hopefully it would be repaired.

Thanks to Greg for willing to send me one - I appreciate you effort.

K
 
Just a quick update:

The owner managed to get a new pin from a source and had a fellow repair man do the removal and install.
They did however run in to problems with pressurizing the forarm - most likely due to installing the pin to quickly - so they blew the rings and composite joint collar..
I have not seen the cue so hopefully it would be repaired.

Thanks to Greg for willing to send me one - I appreciate you effort.

K

Your welcome, and Sorry to hear about the blowout. The only time that ever happened to me was on one of My first cues. It was a 5/16-18 pin, and I made the mistake of using a quick set epoxy, so I had to screw the pin in too quickly. Providing glue relief, or just simply using the slow set epoxies and taking your time screwing the pin in goes a long way in preventing It from happening. It May have something to do with the fine threads, but they seem to be especially risky when It comes to that, although I suppose It can happen with any pin under the same conditions. Even with the coarse threads I have to go slower as I can feel the compression before It gets to bad, and simply wait for the pressure to equalize before screwing It down any more. I may have to do this several times before reaching the bottom with the pin, but I've haven't ever had another blowout since that one occasion doing things that way. The safest bet is providing some sort of glue relief though.
 
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