Yet another Titlist Conversion question

swest

goldmember
Silver Member
Greetings,

I've seen a few Titlist conversions in which the "Willie Hoppe" signature is intact.

What are the choices, with respect to the signature, one makes when converting one of these cues? You wouldn't be able to take off any wood (to revitalize the veneer colors) without losing the sig. So what is one to do?

Thanks.

- s.west
 
swest said:
Greetings,

I've seen a few Titlist conversions in which the "Willie Hoppe" signature is intact.

What are the choices, with respect to the signature, one makes when converting one of these cues? You wouldn't be able to take off any wood (to revitalize the veneer colors) without losing the sig. So what is one to do?

Thanks.

- s.west

Not sure what you are asking.
Are you wanting to know if it is possible to both retain the sig
AND have bright colors?

If that is the question, some of the H/Ts still have good color.
otherwise, you could do a bit of sanding/scraping of the veneers.
Tho it is more complicated than it may sound.

Then there is always re-engraving the sig.
I have not done this, but with CNC, it should be feasable.

Dale Pierce
 
Thanks for your response.
pdcue said:
Not sure what you are asking.
I have a 1-piece Titlist that I want to have converted to a 2-piece cue. It was probably produced in the 40s. The veneers are rather faded, although the rest of the cue is in very good condition, including the finish, signature and weight stamp.

I would like to have the signature preserved through to the converted cue, but I would also like the veneers to show up.

What do others do, or what have they done, to accomplish this.
Are you wanting to know if it is possible to both retain the sig
AND have bright colors?
Yes.
If that is the question, some of the H/Ts still have good color.
otherwise, you could do a bit of sanding/scraping of the veneers.
Tho it is more complicated than it may sound.
Doesn't sound particularly easy.
Then there is always re-engraving the sig.
I have not done this, but with CNC, it should be feasable.
Dale Pierce
Is this ever done? Or is the right choice to sacrifice the signature in favor of placing the cue on a lathe and removing some wood to get to fresh color on the veneers?

Thanks.

- s.west
 
swest said:
Thanks for your response.

I have a 1-piece Titlist that I want to have converted to a 2-piece cue. It was probably produced in the 40s. The veneers are rather faded, although the rest of the cue is in very good condition, including the finish, signature and weight stamp.

I would like to have the signature preserved through to the converted cue, but I would also like the veneers to show up.

What do others do, or what have they done, to accomplish this.

Yes.

Doesn't sound particularly easy.

Is this ever done? Or is the right choice to sacrifice the signature in favor of placing the cue on a lathe and removing some wood to get to fresh color on the veneers?

Thanks.

- s.west

The news is not good.

If your Titlist is from the 40s the colors were much more subdued
than later versions, so, cutting into those veneers is unlikely
to get them much brighter.

If you want the vibrant colors seen on many cues, you need to get
a cue from the 60s. I have three Hoppes from that era, all still
have bright colors.

All the Hoppe/Titlist are quite thin at the joint - .810 is typical.
I don't think it is possible to save the sig AND make a cue with
modern dimensions<joint aprox .840>

If the smaller diameter joint is not a problem, you just might
be better off trying to get a later Hoppe and have someone
re-work it for you.

Dale Pierce
 
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