Rhino 'Time' and 'Time Crystal' tips

Had a teammate ask if I'd seen them so I looked them up. Searched on the web and here and couldn't find a review. Rhino is selling a tip made from layered "microfiber" cloth, in five hardnesses. Being a cloth and probably polyester (?), and available in multiple hardnesses, I would expect the binder might be polyurethane. If Rhino has a presence here, they can comment or not. They have a 'Time' and 'Time Crystal' tip and the only difference I see is that the 'Crystal' tip includes a clear pad underneath. No explanation if that clear pad is acrylic or polycarbonate. I'm not a fan of clear pads, and I favor harder tips, so I bought the 'Time' tips in medium hard, or #4. I have two CF shafts which are essentially the same, and they each had MH and H layered pigskin tips on them for almost a year now. Can't say the name because they are a product given for evaluation and I haven't seen the maker bring those tips to market - yet. Suffice to say: the evaluation tips installed and play as well as UltraSkins and I like them.

As for the Rhino Time tips: I replaced the MH tip on my 'home' shaft with a Rhino Time #4 and so far, it does everything the former MH tip did in terms of performance, so I can play all manner of shots as I normally do, including draw and extreme left or right spin, with no surprising results. Chalks easily and holds chalk well. An observation as an installer is: with my normal burnishing and finishing steps, I was unable to get any kind of 'shine' on the sides of the Time tip. So don't know how absorbent - or not - the edges of the layers are, since my assumption is that they are saturated with some aforementioned binder. Will the tip still be performing satisfactorily 6mo or 1yr from now? I guess 'time' will tell, although pricewise, they cost 3-4 times an UltraSkin.

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Cue Repair Lathe - Made mostly from hobby CNC and 3D printed parts.

Ok, so you probably saw my other thread where I got myself in trouble with the collar that got stuck on a shaft due to using the wrong adhesive... anyways, I figure I might as well introduce myself and share some pictures of my project. You'll probably see me here quite a bit asking questions as I figure things out.

I've had a love for pool for many years, and considering I'm a sucker for learning new hobbies and going down their respective rabbit holes, why not get into cue repair and hopefully cue making? My background already includes tech, hot rods, and woodworking. I will research and experiment to no end LOL. I'm already learning the shortcomings of this machine, but it's performing better than I had imagined. And as everyone on here regarding DIY machines says, you'll end up buying a dedicated machine if you get serious. I already have that plan in the works, just need to finish building a new bench in the shop and save up the cash.

Also, I must give credit to @SSDiver2112 for the inspiration. I found his tread on here where he used a piece of extruded aluminum and some parts sourced from online retailers was proof that good results can be had. He's also been awesome at replying to my PM's during my journey and offering advice. (thanks dude!).

The 3D printed parts are a mixture of another 3D printed cue lathe project I found on youtube, a few of them were modified, and the rest my own design using Fusion360. I would say it would be 20/10/70 percent, in that order. The beam and carriage assembly is a 1500mm 4080 C-Beam used commonly for hobby CNC (IE OpenBuilds). The through hole on the headstock is 19mm, so big enough I can put the better part of a shaft through it. The powersupply, motor controller, headstock, chuck, tool post, and other hardware were mostly sourced via retailers such as Amazon or Ebay. I have not added up the cost to build this thing, decided not to do that about halfway through the project due to my wife potentially finding out (haha, J/K). But yeah, I would say in hindsight, speaking cost alone, probably should have just put this money towards a Cuesmith or something.

The control panel has forward/reverse controls, speed control, a power percentage readout, and a tachometer. It will in steps from about 35rpm to 1900 rpm via the PWM controller. I'm also able to slide the headstock back and forth and reposition the tail stock so I can use it for shaft cleaning.

Anyways, on to the photos.

Feel free to ask any questions regarding my project. I know I will be asking you all stuff as I get into more trouble and expand my skillset!

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Here's a few of the most recent tips. Not perfect, but I'm starting to get better.
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Also, as a bonus, for the sake of showing how much I love the game... Here's a pic of the kegerator I built for when I'm actually enjoying the game! (Built the collar out of maple, double walled with 2" insulation between the walls, all corners are mitered with oak splines tying it together with a little contrast to boot.
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Very nice. 😎👍

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