What should a XXX FargoRate be working on?

Sure it is, add the 30% more games won due to not doing a simple mistake and that is the difference right there. There is nothing that a 600 can do better than I can aside from a little bit more consistency and 1 inch better position in some shots. A rattle on the game winner costs me a lot of games from a fairly easy shot, or hooking myself by 1 or 2 mm when playing position due to just hitting the ball instead of a bit extra planning. Laziness costs me a lot of games. When I have very clear layouts, I don't pay attention to the details since I can see the game as won and I don't bother bearing down and shooting properly, because I am not focusing on winning as much as playing, and I know the rack offers nothing fun to do past shooting boring shots. A lot of people do that, they focus and get through the tough situations, then when it gets easier the focus is gone and there is a mistake.

When I travel for work, no one believes me that I am not over a 600 because when I play in new places, I have more focus on the shots. Once I get comfortable with the people on return trips to the same area I play lazy again.
😂😂😂

Bro…i love this. Me too man. I’d be a pro if I didn’t make silly mistakes, play more precise position, and was able to hit pressure shots…all with consistency 😂

This post just goes to show how delusional we all are with pool. We all feel like we’re one shot away from achieving the goal. No matter what the level…we all feel like if we just cleaned up a couple simple things…we’d be right there.

Fact of the matter is that you don’t play 600 speed. The only way to prove your point is to find a 590 player in your area and challenging them to a race to 21 for $500.

You’re the favorite right?

T.C. NAZ Custom Pool Tables Any Good?

This guy claims the Imperial plays well and best 2k he spent. He said he was going to get a Diamond but couldn't justify the 8k price. For those of you who say the Diamond will hold its value better, actually, you'll still lose about 2k when you go to sell your diamond table. When you go to sell the $2500 Imperial, you'll lose 2k just as well. I see used imperial eliminator tables sell for $500, it'll always be worth about that on the used market. I see used Diamond tables that sell for 5k-6k, brand new OTD is 7k to 8k. I'd rather pay less up front and lose the same value. Clark & Son recommended the Imperial Eliminator table and will set it up. This guy is a much better player than me and teaches pool and had an elite pool table and got the Imperial eliminator to replace it.
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Moving to Jacksonville, FL - need a table mechanic to install my Diamond and new cloth. Also looking for decent places to play, APA and otherwise.

I'm a bit confused at this point.

Some say absolutely NO to Wes and YES to Tony only, some say the opposite, some say Tony isn't certified, some say he is. I'm not all that concerned about "certified", I'm more focused on talent and results. I just want the best install I can get for an $11K+ table, since I don't know either of these guys, I have no way to judge.

Tony was great through the ordering process and since I am many months out before I'll see the table, I guess we'll see how it goes. RKC recommended Tony's company for this buy so I just went with that.

How do these diamond tables play so badly? vid

I doubt any player in the world would complain if Diamond changed their cushion design to perform exactly like a GC. When the top pros play on the All Japan Championship (still played on GC) they play jam up. The current pro event right now is on the Predator table. On the stream, it looks like the cushions are playing great, and the players are playing great. (Yes, I know there were early issues with these tables 2 years ago that were transport and tipping on their side related.)

Diamonds catch phrase is/was “designed by players for players”. I can’t believe “players” let these cushions out the door 30 years ago, or today.

When Diamond improved the black marks on the balls everyone was happy. When Diamond changed from red to blue everyone was happy (except for some red owners who felt slighted, and that’s understandable). If Diamond today copies the GC design exactly, I again think the vast majority of players would welcome the change.

Except One Pocket Players. They like to shorten those banks up and Diamond serves that purpose very well.


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How do these diamond tables play so badly? vid

so is that why the guy banked short?

Yup! Has nothing to do with armor all, or any other chemical. These are fixes for a PROBLEM that everyone ignores. Yes, humidity and temperature play a part but, not nearly as big as the cushions used. All this talk is fluff in defending of the cushions or manufacture.


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How do these diamond tables play so badly? vid

I had a look at that website and it says :

Unique material – experienced process
The strips obtained by molding have a profile with a more regular geometry. That is why we use this method instead of extrusion for the manufacture of the KLEMATCH[emoji768] cushions.
The cushions’ profile regularity obtained by molding allows players a game with greater accuracy. A molded strip manufactured from the finest rubber mixtures like a KLEMATCH[emoji768] cushion, allows players to combine performance and accuracy for optimum satisfaction with a maximum service life.

this page says a bit about types of rubber and the molding process.

here is some comparison between natural rubber and synthetic rubber

===========

I cant' speak for this particular manufacturer, what we do know is that natural rubber has some different properties.

I worked in a plant that recovered printing rollers , I used to remove the old rubber and prep the core and put it into molds. It was pumped from a drum and cooked in an oven in the mold

the OEM rollers were, I believe, mainly natural rubber, one of the properties is that it is slightly porous which gives it a grippy feel, like an elastic band or a pencil erasor. The synthetic rubber is less prone to attack from the chemicals, solvents and is cheaper to produce as it can be molded easily. It's cheaper and breaks down less quickly from ozone.

natural rubber is from rubber trees, most others are from the petroleum industry.

what I have seen is that the friction difference is substantial , so if a roller is driving paper you want that grippyness, If it's slick like an O ring, it wont drive paper so well. the slickness of the synthetic rubber was a bit of a disadvantage but it can be molded as heat cures it once in a mold.

One example where the grippynes matters, is a folding machine where paper is being driven by rubber rollers. If they are slick rollers made from basically rubber like plastic, they loose their capability of having drive as soon as they get dusty.

I noticed that when looking at rubber for pool tables, there is a lot of offshore stuff made of synthetic rubber, cheap stuff from china , It can be molded cheaply. I believe that making pool table cushions by extrusion, like in the brunswick video requires a much higher cost equipment setup than a simple heat activated molding process,

this video shows the Brunswick Superspeed manufacturing process, you can see how costly and unique the equipment required ot do that is.
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If you are choosing a manufacturer for pool table rubber I'd take into consideration their process and what type of rubber they are using, some companies may be secretive about their proprietary processes.

I have occasionally looked into having real rubber rollers made, where synthetics would not work well , an example is driving wood through a thickness planer. It needs that grip that natural rubber provides. a slick synthetic roller will get covered in wood dust and slip.

It is expensive they have long wait times and I once went to the plant and was interested about their process but they wouldn't let me see inside, protecting their proprietary process.

I wont speak for or against a particular manufacturer, I just think they type or rubber you choose and weather of not it is natural rubber is important. when I see its made by a molding process and not an extrusion machine, it lead me to think this is using a synthetic but that may not be completely justifiable. a chemical scientist that studies rubber types and has in depth knowledge of different manufacturing types would definitely be able to shed more light on why certain types of rubber are best for pool table cushions.

If you are ordering rubber through online dealers, id just be a bit cautions that the rubber you are getting is the type of rubber most suitable. If it's incredibly cheap it's likely made by a molding process and not natural rubber.

i suspect that the machinery that Brunswick is using , although very dated looking, may still be in use and without knowing more I'd be a bit more tempted to go with that type of rubber or a manufacturer using similar extrusion equipment. Natural rubber, not plastics.

Its a big subject, I dont know everything, I'd like to learn more. I believe the type of rubber and the process used may have a large effect on its bounce characteristics.

One thing Im curious about, how much is the type of rubber affecting the drive between ball and cushion, when you spin balls into a cushion? The cloth separates the two, does the grippyness matter ?

DEAD ON! This should end the post but, arguments will still continue. The rubber/cushions is the problem. Not the DIAMOND table.



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Any Reason Not to Use a Brush or a Vac With a Brush Attachment on Cloth?

I have solved this problem by changing to Taom V10 chalk. I used to use a battery operated vacuum with a clear canister and would get lots of chalk out of the cloth when using any chalk other than v10. Now I get NO chalk out of the cloth thus I don't find a need to vacuum it any longer.
I get that Taom is marketed as clean. And compared to Masters it is a fair representation. But be honest. You chalk your tip. You strike the cueball. Chalk puffs off the tip onto the table. If it didn’t, you’d never need to chalk and you’d never miscue. But Taom is a fine chalk. So it settles in between the fibers of the felt. It takes longer before it builds up enough to affect table roll. But sooner or later it will add up. Periodic (even less periodic) maintenance is still called for. For the sake of the audience, it’s worth not over exaggerating the chalk.

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