markjames said:

adjusting spin based on the color of the contact point on the object ball?

i’m baffled

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island drive should do a collab with dr dave. maybe he's onto something

Disclaimer: not an instructor!!

Been there, done that (more times than I care to admit).

Were you missing on both sides, or just to one side? This could point to the root cause if it’s mostly to one side.

And yes, when trying to correct an issue, your game has every likelihood of degrading, even significantly. Sometimes ya just gotta power through it until you get it back.

Best of luck!!!

billiardshot said:

I Hope there were 14+ players register by today! I want to see this Tournament SUPPORT by their Local players and local Billiard Rooms in Honolulu, HI. Otherwise I think Paul Frankel 3C contest, should be done to increase awareness in Hawaii from pool players to 3C players.

Shot Contest Attracts Pool Players to 3-Cushion

Get the latest news from the world of USBA Billiards.

usba-carom.org

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Unless I missed it, is there a link to what the eight shots are?

iusedtoberich said:

I played a guy last night 10 per game and ended up winning 22 total games. I didn't say a peep when he accidentally repeatedly moved balls with his stick or hand, several times a few balls at a time.

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Gotta be good to the customers.

Let’s make a deal with cues or case only.

I see about as many CF shafts ans wood shafts in my shop, so they are far from indestructible. If you go back and listen to the original promo video Predator made for the Revo line of shafts, Pia is basically just parroting those claims, so this is nothing more than marketing in a more personal form. The constant comparison to tennis rackets, golf clubs and hockey sticks is a bit dishonest, as none of these pieces of sports equipment have a high focus on feel and feedback. I think a more fair comparison would be instruments where feel is essential and if you have a look there, Carbon fiber has made very little inroads in the music instrument market..
If you prefer wood or carbon fiber, they both have advantages and disadvantages, saying categorically that one is better like Pia (and Predator) does is just not true. It really depends on what features you emphasis.

overlord said:

You can steam minor dings out of a wood shaft but the shaft will never be perfect again.

Major dings you have to fill with wood filler.

Major dings are when you actually lose wood.

The fins under certain pool table lights will ding wood shafts big time.

CF is smooth as silk.

Dings are annoying.

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At one time or another I have dinged almost every shaft I own and I guarantee you would not be able to tell nor spot where I've removed a ding.

Lou Figueroa

5 inch
Measure at the beginning of the pocket facings at the mouth of the pocket.

A lot of hate on here for Savannah but as someone who has watched her progress over the years I always believed she would be world champ someday.

Just a few years back she was a 500 Fargo here in Vegas. She has made a big jump in her game in a relatively short time and she has youth on her side.

Straightpool_99 said:

He said the tip job cost more than the cue. The wrap is probably double the cue price maybe even treble and the warping fix I have no idea. He also mentioned retapering the shaft... It won't be worth it, mostly because he started with a shaft that wasn't all that great and had a big crack in it to boot.

If you started with a nice, solid vintage cue that had some warp in it..then it could be worth it and you probably could pick up something like that on the cheap. Then you could get a nice cue for 2-300 dollars. Not the bargain of the century, but you'd know it was a good cue that played well.

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I was thinking about price relative to a new plain Dufferin with the same Thoroughbred tip can be had for under $150 from at least one retailer. Plenty of other options under $200, also. It would be easier to just spend the money on a decent budget cue to start with.

I like your approach for using the cue smith's skills to bring back a vintage cue.

Watched and rooted for Savannah , ( and Sofia ) Congrats to Chezka !!

Chris said:

Serious question: The cue cost $29, but he added a wrap, a tip, and some micarta, plus maybe 1-2 hours labor, maybe more. How much did the improved cue cost if the new parts and labor are included with the initial purchase price?

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He said the tip job cost more than the cue. The wrap is probably double the cue price maybe even treble and the warping fix I have no idea. He also mentioned retapering the shaft... It won't be worth it, mostly because he started with a shaft that wasn't all that great and had a big crack in it to boot.

If you started with a nice, solid vintage cue that had some warp in it..then it could be worth it and you probably could pick up something like that on the cheap. Then you could get a nice cue for 2-300 dollars. Not the bargain of the century, but you'd know it was a good cue that played well.

Island Drive said:

A good way you Might control the side betting situation is this.
Last 30 minutes is Only Time.... You can place a bet... then play starts.
Minimum and Max bets allowed.
Lets say $100 max min $20.
Sweaters paradise.
And No ones on the take.
Make the side bets max out at a certain dollar amount to eliminate the DUMP. Stir....



https://trinityrental.com/

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The $20 to $100 spread is actually a solid sweet spot—keeps the low-stakes noise out while stopping big spenders from flexing and distorting the game. That 30-minute lock-in rule would take a lot of discipline to enforce, but if you can run a tight ship like that, it definitely turns into a sweater’s paradise!