Nut Plate slots, fill 'em?

[Crash]

While I've got the cushions off of my late model Medalist ... is there any advantage to filling the slots for the nut plates? I would use soft pine and elmers carpenter glue, carefully sanding flush with the facing.

 

[A-1 billiards]

While I've got the cushions off of my late model Medalist ... is there any advantage to filling the slots for the nut plates? I would use soft pine and elmers carpenter glue, carefully sanding flush with the facing.

I've done it both ways. If you are using Brunswick Super speed cushions the bottom glued edge will have a very slight amount of extra surface to glue up to. The draw back is that if you ever need to extract the captured nut plate you'll have to cut out or remove the plug.

Since I started using 3m 10 to attach the cushions to the rail liners, I haven't found it necessary to plug the slot. The bond is very solid and prevents the "thud" caused by early de-lamination of the cushions below the mortise in the liner face.

Jay

 

[LCCS]

filler

I would advise not to fill them. As jay said. The glue will hold very strong. Jay knows we have had a lot of rail repair on tables.
Thanks. Ron

 

[OTLB]

many times the cavity is missing on more of the bottom of the cushion than half of it. I wedge a glue stick in the slot which fills in the majority of the way and top coat it with bondo. If you need to get it out, you can just drill the bondo and remove the stick. AS Jay mentioned the glue will hold. Personally though the sound is better to me when filled and on alot of GC III rails that cavity ends breaking loose at the bottom. I have not seen it as nearly at all as an issue on the IV's and V's but the the III's for sure and late model GC II as well. It makes it better I think

 

[Crash]

Medalist vs GC rails

I assume the late model Medalist rail construction is similar to the GCIII rail? George

 

[OTLB]

with the floating nut yes

 

[Crash]

I've done it both ways. If you are using Brunswick Super speed cushions the bottom glued edge will have a very slight amount of extra surface to glue up to. The draw back is that if you ever need to extract the captured nut plate you'll have to cut out or remove the plug.

Since I started using 3m 10 to attach the cushions to the rail liners, I haven't found it necessary to plug the slot. The bond is very solid and prevents the "thud" caused by early de-lamination of the cushions below the mortise in the liner face.

Jay

I've got replacement Superspeeds and 3M10 on the way. Plugging the slots will be a personal preference for a home table and sounds like no harm done either way. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to screw something up or pass an opportunity to improve the table.

George

 

[OTLB]

just got this table in for ext's, I wonder why? anyways the pic shows the bottom part of the cavity where the cushion is suppose to be glued to. It wasn't this bad but was loose. Not even an 1/8 inch of wood there and 3/8ths of rubber to glue it to. The guy said it sounds funny and I showed him why.

As I am taking them off, the next one had nothing to glue to.

Last one and the rest will go to hack thread

sorry one more, plastic wood

 

[Crash]

I didn't take pictures but I did fill mine with soft pine about 3/8 in deep in the slots. All the nut plates had good threads and had never been over torqued. In fact they were kinda loose when we broke it down. When I bolt the rails down, "good and snug" vs "spark plug tight" should do just fine and not pull out the nut plates through the rail. I'll be the next one recovering in about three years so you know it will be done right. Looking at some of the pics n the Hack section tells me that some people just should not pick up tools at all!

Thanks for posting those.