Drawing the rack outline on your table

... Also do I use a sharpie or what to draw the outline?
I use tailor's (or seamstress's) chalk. It comes off, mostly, within a week. The outline really helps judge break shots and it is required to be on the table according to the rules. The center spot is also required to be marked, but it is only rarely used.
 
I use tailor's (or seamstress's) chalk. It comes off, mostly, within a week. The outline really helps judge break shots and it is required to be on the table according to the rules. The center spot is also required to be marked, but it is only rarely used.

Bob are you saying the center of the table or if not what do you mean by "the center spot"?
 
You can not be a serious Straight Pool Player if a pool table does not have a outline of a rack on it.

I've been one since 1975 and the only time I've EVER played on a table with a drawn rack was in tournaments. I wouldn't bother with my table, personally.
 
I use tailor's (or seamstress's) chalk. It comes off, mostly, within a week. The outline really helps judge break shots....

tailors chalk is a good idea.

what exactly do you mean, "it helps judge break shots" ? if this is true, i'll get some tailors chalk and give it a try. i figured that it was only there to determine if a ball was in the rack.
 
One question that comes to my mind in this thread, is what rack do people use? In the commercial room I played in for 23 or more years there were three types of racks: plastic with a lip, plastic with no lip, and wood. I suppose if you are a purist, you would want to use wood. I've known people over the years who have sworn by the plastic with a lip and those who favor wood over either plastic. I've used both but I think when racks were outlined for tournaments only wood was used for uniformity.
 
Well I am not drawing the outline until I get my delta 13 rack. With perfect balls and rack together I will be able to blow on the stack and spread everything out on break shots!
 
this begs the question; what are the exact dimensions of an "official" rack?

Here's what the WPA's equipment specifications say about the rack. Nothing is said about dimensions.

"The wooden triangular ball rack is the recommended device to be used to rack the balls to ensure that the balls are properly aligned and in contact with each other. Both surfaces that can make contact with the table-cloth when moving loaded rack to and fro, should be very smooth in order not to incur any damage to the cloth underneath. Plastic racks are not recommended, they are flexible and tend to deform, making proper racking of balls time-consuming, if not impossible."​
 
Here's what the WPA's equipment specifications say about the rack. Nothing is said about dimensions.

"The wooden triangular ball rack is the recommended device to be used to rack the balls to ensure that the balls are properly aligned and in contact with each other. Both surfaces that can make contact with the table-cloth when moving loaded rack to and fro, should be very smooth in order not to incur any damage to the cloth underneath. Plastic racks are not recommended, they are flexible and tend to deform, making proper racking of balls time-consuming, if not impossible."​

It is stuff like this that made me decide I needed the outline of the "INSIDE" of the rack.

As for the dimensions of the stack once racked it has to be 2.25" x 5" = 11.25" that means the inside of the rack must be sightly larger than that so you can lift it with out disturbing the racked balls.

I use one of those racks made of the indestructible recycled nylon or plastic particles. It is a super cheap one but seems to be fairly solid and sturdy in both dimensions and design.

At one bar we play at they have these home made wooden racks that are HUGE! There are about 2 inches behind the balls on the inside of those racks!
At every place we play APA league they have a different rack and the outside dimensions are different accordingly.
 
At one bar we play at they have these home made wooden racks that are HUGE!

bigrigtom: i made a wooden rack that i have been using for many years which i purposely made larger by about an inch, so that i can rack the balls faster. on rare occasions i will get a behind the rack break-ball and have to rack the remaining balls from the side of the table so that the enlarged rack does not interfere with the break-ball.

but because of "loose rack" complaints by contestants, they are now using those funky-azz, plastic, spring-loaded racks which push the balls into the cloth. try outlining the outside of one of those monsters. i can see the utility but personally, i hate the things.
 
bigrigtom: i made a wooden rack that i have been using for many years which i purposely made larger by about an inch, so that i can rack the balls faster. on rare occasions i will get a behind the rack break-ball and have to rack the remaining balls from the side of the table so that the enlarged rack does not interfere with the break-ball.

but because of "loose rack" complaints by contestants, they are now using those funky-azz, plastic, spring-loaded racks which push the balls into the cloth. try outlining the outside of one of those monsters. i can see the utility but personally, i hate the things.

Sounds like you are referring to the Sardo Tight Rack with the springs. It is a cool tool but you are right about out lining the out side of that rack ...WOW!
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You would have trouble with several other speciality racks like the Chameleon

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I stand by my original remark that it is the out line of the balls when they are racked that if of concern. When I am selecting my break ball I try to make sure there is enough room around that side of the ball to allow me to rack but it is an eye balling estimate kind of thing and with the out line of the balls there it is not difficult to get it close enough.
 
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