Lathe station for CNC

fiolledapool

fiolledapool

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hi,

I will need a lathe station in my cnc in a few weeks, I want ask abaut better solution and if is possible, a solution no more expensive.

Advices please,
possible supplier for it?
 
fiolledapool said:
hi,

I will need a lathe station in my cnc in a few weeks, I want ask abaut better solution and if is possible, a solution no more expensive.

Advices please,
possible supplier for it?
Click to expand...


This can be done if you have the correct setup. Could you please help by telling us what type of machine you have, controller, and cnc software you are using? I have a 4 axes controller and switch the 4th axis between the A axis and the lathe spindle. Both use the same motor and I configure Mach 3 with two different profiles. I also reduce the number of pulses on the Y axis so that I can cut using whole diameter sizes in my program. The mill software doesn't offer this option however I prefer the mill software over the lathe side.

Jim.
 
Mc2 said:
This can be done if you have the correct setup. Could you please help by telling us what type of machine you have, controller, and cnc software you are using? I have a 4 axes controller and switch the 4th axis between the A axis and the lathe spindle. Both use the same motor and I configure Mach 3 with two different profiles. I also reduce the number of pulses on the Y axis so that I can cut using whole diameter sizes in my program. The mill software doesn't offer this option however I prefer the mill software over the lathe side.

Jim.
Click to expand...

My cnc is using rockcliff controller with macth 3 and I have bobcad and Mastercam.
Machine have 3 axis , similar at DZ machine http://www.dzcues.com/cnc_photos.htm , with a station with manual indexer and heavy tailstock for work with inlays and V-grooves but I need a second lathe station.

I am thinking in taig headstock with chuck and taig tailstock with live center, with a speed controller motor.
 
fiolledapool said:
My cnc is using rockcliff controller with macth 3 and I have bobcad and Mastercam.
Machine have 3 axis , similar at DZ machine http://www.dzcues.com/cnc_photos.htm , with a station with manual indexer and heavy tailstock for work with inlays and V-grooves but I need a second lathe station.

I am thinking in taig headstock with chuck and taig tailstock with live center, with a speed controller motor.
Click to expand...

Can you get Taig parts where you are located? If so I would go with a Taig spindle, tail stock, and a dc contollable motor. Here in the US I would go through Nick Carter for the parts. I would also get two of the head stock mounting plates part number 200-48. These are short dove tails that can be mounted on a flate plate at each end to support the cue. As long as everything is true they will be dead nuts center up and down. Of course the Taig tailstock is adjustable left and right. Let me know if you can't get these parts and I will work something out with you.

Jim.
 
You can get the headstock, variable speed motor , tailstock and dovetail from Chris Hightower.
I suggest a longer-slimmer tailstock center though to make it a little safer.
Mount the dovetail bed an aluminum extrusion (bolt the dovetail to it ) then bolt the alum-extrusion down . You will need a 30" long shaft/thomspon rod to indicate from to zero that combo down.
 
I'm basically building exactly what Joey described, except I am using the 72" dovetail and I am buying rails long enough for the X Axis so that I can cut on both sides of the headstock if I want. I got my headstock from Lee. The nice thing about his is that the motor is part of the unit, so you won't have to worry about mounting it. Since it is so long, I am using 4 rails for the Y Axis. Mine are only 11 Inches long, but this is strictly a tapering machine, so that should be more travel than I will ever need. All I have left to buy are the X Axis rails and screws and I'm ready to go.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I'm basically building exactly what Joey described, except I am using the 72" dovetail and I am buying rails long enough for the X Axis so that I can cut on both sides of the headstock if I want. I got my headstock from Lee. The nice thing about his is that the motor is part of the unit, so you won't have to worry about mounting it. Since it is so long, I am using 4 rails for the Y Axis. Mine are only 11 Inches long, but this is strictly a tapering machine, so that should be more travel than I will ever need. All I have left to buy are the X Axis rails and screws and I'm ready to go.
Click to expand...

Tony, it is nice to have extra room but I would suggest 40 inches and not 72. Not only is it harder to find rails that long but your lead screw or ball screw if 5/8 inch or less will be wipping around and cause alot of binding issues. Please forgive me if you have already thought of this.

Jim.
 
I didn't consider that Jim. Thanks for the Advice. I do have 4 rails for the Y Axis since it is such a long span. I guess I really only need the cutting capabilities on the right hand side of the headstock. I wanted the extra length on the backside so I could put a cue through there with a steady rest and collet if I wanted to.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I didn't consider that Jim. Thanks for the Advice. I do have 4 rails for the Y Axis since it is such a long span. I guess I really only need the cutting capabilities on the right hand side of the headstock. I wanted the extra length on the backside so I could put a cue through there with a steady rest and collet if I wanted to.
Click to expand...

OH, I see. Will you be thread milling with this machine? If so you may want to hook up a stepper motor to the spindle or be able to attach a rotary table on the back end of the cue. If you don't mind, I would like to see your finished machine.

Jim.
 
No milling on this one. Tapering only. I'm using a Kress Router. I wouldn't use that for inlays. I'm building another much nicer machine to do inlays on.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
No milling on this one. Tapering only. I'm using a Kress Router. I wouldn't use that for inlays. I'm building another much nicer machine to do inlays on.
Click to expand...

Cool, I can't wait to see what you come up with. I will post my newest machine soon.

Jim.
 
fiolledapool said:
True, tranks Joey
Click to expand...

The rod will get you close. In the long run it is best to just cut a straight pass on shaft wood and measure both ends. While you are at it measure the center as well. You will drive yourself nuts with the indicator here. You can ballpark in by just putting live center up to dead center and shifting over with your eyeballs. You will be close enough to make a pass. Then measure both ends. Put an indicator on the live center side at this point and shift tailstock by 1/2 the amount that you are off. Then take another pass and measure. I wouldn't worry about anything less than .005 inches. You can program that out. By the way, when you move your tailstock it all starts over again. You will be close though at this point.

Jim.
 
Mc2 said:
The rod will get you close. In the long run it is best to just cut a straight pass on shaft wood and measure both ends. While you are at it measure the center as well. You will drive yourself nuts with the indicator here. You can ballpark in by just putting live center up to dead center and shifting over with your eyeballs. You will be close enough to make a pass. Then measure both ends. Put an indicator on the live center side at this point and shift tailstock by 1/2 the amount that you are off. Then take another pass and measure. I wouldn't worry about anything less than .005 inches. You can program that out. By the way, when you move your tailstock it all starts over again. You will be close though at this point.

Jim.
Click to expand...

Need to check as far as height also. No tail-stock is at a perfect height. Most are designed to be high so that as the base and bed wares it wares in instead of wares out. If the tail-stock is low a shim can be put between the halves. If it is high then the head-stock needs to be shimmed higher. This stuff is really only somewhat critical when attempting to drill a round, straight hole.

Dick
 
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