Wood glue

J

josie

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What are your opinions of using wood glue for glueing dyed veneers together and glueing point stock into forearms. I like the idea of the quicker cure time of wood glue but always use slow setting epoxy. I read somewhere that there is less of a glue line with wood glue. My search did not come up with too much.

Thanks,

Eric
 
Chris Byrne said:
Tightbond 2 works great.
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he's right...especially gluing veneers at 45...diluted with a few drops of water. Have never glued up points with wood glue, kinda scary but probably just because i've never tried it.
 
I read somewhere that on wood, titebond forms a much stronger bond than epoxy. I have no idea if it is true but I read it on the web, so it must be:wink: Has anyone researched this?
 
ratcues said:
Think about which glue is best for your application. Cue making is never a quick process.
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I would only use it on a wood to wood glue up. But it would be nice to be able to glue up sycamore veneers more than once a day if you are doing a stack method.
 
Setting time can be an issue with epoxy, but I generally still use it while gluing veneers up because tightbond has water in it and curls the veneer so badly. Just a little easier I think.
 
I have used titebond II also but I rescently switched to Gorilla wood glue, not the regular gorilla glue mind you. It has given me good results with veneers. I have used west system epoxy also but the set time is much longer.
 
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Thats good to know as Gorilla glue is one thing I can get locally.
Had to order Titebond, couldn't find any for the life of me.
You'd think I live in the boonies sometimes.
 
josie said:
What are your opinions of using wood glue for glueing dyed veneers together and glueing point stock into forearms. I like the idea of the quicker cure time of wood glue but always use slow setting epoxy. I read somewhere that there is less of a glue line with wood glue. My search did not come up with too much.

Thanks,

Eric
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To glue veneers I like thin epoxy and I will tell you why. I like the idea the epoxy penetrates the thin wood of the veneers. It in effect, creates a single unit of the forearm and veneers rather then a series of glued joints. Actually, I don't use wood glue anywhere on the cue.
 
Time time time

When glueing veneers with Titebond ,I remove the clamps after 24 hours clean up veneer on the tablesaw and reclamp for at least a week ,the veneer won't curl if left alone . Allow about 5 days before you let the glued up pieces rest I always keep them under slite pressure...(a couple of 5lb weights )until I'm ready to use them...But this is just a hobby for me..... No time line........:cool:
 
The strongest wood to wood glue currently for finger jointed and laminated beams, is a commercial polyeurathane glue. It is similar to the gorilla brand but different.
The commercial stuff comes in differing curing times and assembly times. Usually they are 2.5 times the assembly time is the cure time at 24degC.Finger joint glue sets in about 2 mins cured.Unfortunately you can't get access to the glue,as soon as it is exposed to atmosphere and moisture it starts setting off. It comes in really large wine bags. Neil
 
josie said:
I would only use it on a wood to wood glue up. But it would be nice to be able to glue up sycamore veneers more than once a day if you are doing a stack method.
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Why not use a quicker setting epoxy? I have it in 5 min, 30 min, 12 hour, and 24 hour. Any will hold veneers together.
 
ratcues said:
Why not use a quicker setting epoxy? I have it in 5 min, 30 min, 12 hour, and 24 hour. Any will hold veneers together.
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I never thought of using 5 min epoxy for veneers. I guess my thought would be the veneers and point stock glue up are only as good as their weakest link. I don't think I would want to glue points in with 5 min epoxy but I don't have any proof of why. How do you feel about 5 min or 30 min epoxy for gluing in points?

Thanks for the input.
 
This is spot on. I have found as mentioned earlier, that the veneers curl up during the glue up, but I use a method very similar to cuewould and have no problems.

I just stick mine in between two boards with wax paper and then a day later, take the wax paper off after cleaning up the edges and re clamp for a day or two more. This leaves a perfectly flat stack.

I know Epoxy works well, but from my wood working experience, I love using Titebond and it has proven to me to work with zero chance of failure as long as the technique is done right.

Really, epoxy or wood glue will work well as long as you spend the time to get good surface-surface contact with enough clamping pressure, and if left over night, will form a near indestructible bond.

cuewould said:
When glueing veneers with Titebond ,I remove the clamps after 24 hours clean up veneer on the tablesaw and reclamp for at least a week ,the veneer won't curl if left alone . Allow about 5 days before you let the glued up pieces rest I always keep them under slite pressure...(a couple of 5lb weights )until I'm ready to use them...But this is just a hobby for me..... No time line........:cool:
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I used to use titebond 2 then I switched to a poly glue called elmers ulitmate. It's just like gorilla glue. The advantage to the poly glues are they are not water based so your veneers won't warp or curl up after you take them out of the press. The disadvantage to epoxy is some colors will bleed into the others so you need to seal them. The heat causes this. No bleeding with wood glue or poly glue. I do use 30 min epoxy for inner point and veneers into foream. However I've seen poly glue used there bit I haven't tried it yet.

So all these glues will work but here's your disadvantages.
1 epoxy with cause bleeding
2 wood glue causes curling or wavy veneers
3 poly has no effects.


Hope this helps.
 
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