Mechanics to visit Table-Tek shop this friday
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I'm just a little bothered by Rob's use of a milling machine to change the bevel on sub-rails, when it takes more than that to be called a "top table" mechanic. Installing cloth, leveling slates, and knowing how to work on all the different kinds of tables out here, as well as the effects of extending the sub-rails to tighten up pockets.
To prove my point, I'll ask all of you, including Rob one question about that very subject.
Question: Cory Duel wants his 9ft ProAm with 4 1/2" corner pockets to play harder, yet he wants to keep the pockets at 4 1/2" openings....how would any of you fullfill his request?
Glen
PS. You too OTLB!!
To prove my point, I'll ask all of you, including Rob one question about that very subject.
Question: Cory Duel wants his 9ft ProAm with 4 1/2" corner pockets to play harder, yet he wants to keep the pockets at 4 1/2" openings....how would any of you fullfill his request?
Glen
PS. You too OTLB!!
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Nice try, but no....next! Rob, OTLB....care to take a crack at this question?
NeverLevel
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This is clearly a trick question. The correct answer is to hang up the phone once you realize it Corey Deuel
So let me get this right.. my machine is now too accurate? Yes you are correct with the retention of water. But any error in the process is only magnified by the material. If you can only hold a 64th with the cut, then it swells and contracts a 64th. This adds on the swell and subtracts if it were to shrink (under the base water %, take a lot of time such as an antique). So your tolerance is +1/32 to 0. And mine is +- 1/64. How could this affect nose height, which one will make the difference? No difference here than any other material, all materials change size with temperature and certain ones change size with humidity. Not really adding anything here. You can make woodworking machines on metalworking machines, not the other way around. All you need to see is one set of Gold crown rails getting a skim on the mill, then you tune will change. You can see the twist in the factory cut.
Just ask Jay what he thinks, he is going to be at the shop in a half hour. Talk to you soon.
Rob
Just ask Jay what he thinks, he is going to be at the shop in a half hour. Talk to you soon.
Rob
Easy one, change the pocket opening to 143degress with a little added wood and use the same type of facing. Or you could build out the shelf a bit. Next one?
Rob
Rob
142 would be more correct as the pocket is already at 141, but something else has to be done as well
142 would be more correct as the pocket is already at 141, but something else has to be done as well
Hi Glen,
I'm no table mechanic, but I am pretty good with math and geometry, angles and degrees.
To tighten the pocket but retain the 4-1/2 inch opening, you can increase the degree of the cut, which in turn would tighten the throat of the pocket (the back of the rail), to the range of 3-1/2 inches, or whatever he would want. second you would also want to change the downward angle of the pocket cut (i.e. vertical pocket angle) from whatever it is (probably 12 degrees)all the way down to 0 degrees if he wants. That would make the pockets a true 4-1/2 opening, as a 12 degree cut actually adds about 1/8" to the pocket opening below the top of the rail.
Between those two cuts, you can create virtually any difficulty 4/12 inch pocket you want, you dont even really need to deal with the slate shelf, as even the shortest shelves don't come into play as much if your pocket angle cut is higher (i.e. 142, 143, 144, etc.).
How'd I do?
Ryan
With 0 degrees down angle, balls would fly up and out of the pockets
I agree, 0 was an exaggeration, but my point was that the verticle angle was the missing point.
Correct?
Well, I would rather have a glass half full than half empty any day! Do you have a new secret tool? I am curious to see where you are going with this, cause the phrasing has OTLB written all over it. You know, we might better serve the industry by not taking personal innovations as attacks. Speaking of, I have something to send you. Just send me an address that you will get it at.
Rob
Rob
Rob, I don't have an address for my truck:thumbup: and not only do I hardly ever know where I'm going next, I never know how long I'm going to be there. I left the Diamond factory around Dec 14th or so, and still haven't been back yet. Just give it to Jay and he'll hold on to whatever it is for me as I'll be seeing Jay real soon.
Glen
PS, nothing I have....let me say that again....NOTHING I have...has OTLB written on it, beside it, under it...or any where near it:thumbup:
Rob, I have nothing against innovations what-so-ever, as long as the have a place. I have no doubt that your milling machine can resurface the sub-rail bevel correctly, but...there's a lot more to correctly playing rails other than the sub-rail bevel as you're aware, because we've talked about that very subject on the phone. I use a bunch of different tools with different jigs, to address all the different problems of the rails...to correct each and everyone of them...in order to turn out perfect playing rails. I don't rely on one tool more than another...because they are all designed to work together because I work on the tops of the rails, the ends, on the bottom side, and in the featherstip dado...and repair all areas. I don't just focus on the bevel, miters, and down angles
Glen
Actually, funny situation yesterday.. I was delivering a table to the Catskills in New York and while up there stopped by at Orange County Choppers. Just around the corner I passed a pickup truck with a Bridgeport milling machine in the back. Unfortunately I didn't have time to get a picture, but it proves that they are technically portable!
So what is the other 50% for the original question? Trying to see where you are going here. I did like RJTcobra idea, though I would only change that 2 or 3 degrees at most. A softer facing would compress more, imparting more rebound to reject balls especially hard shots or with certain english. cant say I have spent much time making tables more difficult. As it so happens, I was just talking about this with Pete Fusco the other day. I did a table with Pro-Cut pockets and he asked to have me open the facings up a bit for one pocket usage. Going back this monday, maybe I will post the before and afters. What was the original gc3 corner pocket angles vs the current 141-142>? Talk to you later.
Rob
So what is the other 50% for the original question? Trying to see where you are going here. I did like RJTcobra idea, though I would only change that 2 or 3 degrees at most. A softer facing would compress more, imparting more rebound to reject balls especially hard shots or with certain english. cant say I have spent much time making tables more difficult. As it so happens, I was just talking about this with Pete Fusco the other day. I did a table with Pro-Cut pockets and he asked to have me open the facings up a bit for one pocket usage. Going back this monday, maybe I will post the before and afters. What was the original gc3 corner pocket angles vs the current 141-142>? Talk to you later.
Rob