I need advice on a TAD cue

jmurphy

SWEET
Silver Member
Hey Guys/Gals,
I just picked up a 1972ish Tad solid Bird's eye w/ nice ring just above butt cap. and 3 shafts. The cue is a bit rough, the silver rings feel a bit raised up and the cue needs to be refinished.
What's the best choice here?
1. do nothing leave the cue all original
2. Send it to Tad to restore the cue
3. Save a lot of money and time, send cue off to "Nucues" who does great work in a timely manner for unbelievable prices. here is a link....
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=204790
 
First choice is sending it back to Tad.

Second choice is sending it to Proficient Billiards. They have a proven track record of doing a great job of refinishing high end cues and will be able to save the original Tad wrap if it's still in tact. One of the few that does not insist on replacing the wrap when refininshing.

Hope this helps,

Dave
 
First choice is sending it back to Tad.

Second choice is sending it to Proficient Billiards. They have a proven track record of doing a great job of refinishing high end cues and will be able to save the original Tad wrap if it's still in tact. One of the few that does not insist on replacing the wrap when refininshing.

Hope this helps,

Dave

The wrap is intact with zero nicks or flays but it is dingy as hell. Best way to clean up a white/green specs Irish linen wrap?
 
The wrap is intact with zero nicks or flays but it is dingy as hell. Best way to clean up a white/green specs Irish linen wrap?

I clean mine myself on occassion, but I wouldn't recommend it on soomething as valuable as an old Tad wrap, leave that to the professionals. Proficient can clean the wrap if it's in good shape for a modest fee. Scot does an excellent job all the way around and has a pretty quick turn-around.

I have an old Southwest w/the original linen wrap that I do not want to change, it also has some dings in it, but that's cool w/me...I choose to do nothing.

By the way, I have nothing to do w/Proficient, just sharing what I know - they do great work for a reasonable price. I do not know the person offering discount refinish job or the quality of their work, so I would not trust them w/a piece of history.

JMO

Dave
 
i have aboout a dozen Tads, dosent make me a expert, but I'd just play with it.
 
If you are going to sell it to a collector most would tell you to leave it intact. I would contact Fred, Tad's son (714-995-1644)to see what it would take to do the refinish and how much of the original cue would stay intact. I believe if the refinish is done by the original builder it may hold it's potential value better than if someone else refinishes it.

I guess it all depends on what you intend to do with the cue...keep it or sell it? Just my two cents.
 
Hey Guys/Gals,
I just picked up a 1972ish Tad solid Bird's eye w/ nice ring just above butt cap. and 3 shafts. The cue is a bit rough, the silver rings feel a bit raised up and the cue needs to be refinished.
What's the best choice here?
1. do nothing leave the cue all original
2. Send it to Tad to restore the cue
3. Save a lot of money and time, send cue off to "Nucues" who does great work in a timely manner for unbelievable prices. here is a link....
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=204790

One thing some people don't realize is that if the finish is worn off and gone, then the cue is more susceptible to humidity changes. The finish helps protect the cue, thus helps protect your investment.

If you were considering sending it to Nucues, sounds like you're planning to use it as a main player and retaining its potential value wasn't as much of a concern.
 
One thing some people don't realize is that if the finish is worn off and gone, then the cue is more susceptible to humidity changes. The finish helps protect the cue, thus helps protect your investment.

If you were considering sending it to Nucues, sounds like you're planning to use it as a main player and retaining its potential value wasn't as much of a concern.

Well my thinking was, if I leave the original wrap on the cue (having it cleaned up of course) The cue needs to be refinished so what would be the difference if Tad's son Fred cleans the shafts and applies new clear coat to the cue vs. Steve Klapp cleaning the shafts and applying new clear coat to the cue? From what I can tell Steve does a perfect job with his refinish work. I am sure Fred would be perfect also but two or three times the price with a much longer turn around time I would think.
My thinking was either way I will end up with a MINT 1972 Tad cue.
 
Hey Guys/Gals,
I just picked up a 1972ish Tad solid Bird's eye w/ nice ring just above butt cap. and 3 shafts. The cue is a bit rough, the silver rings feel a bit raised up and the cue needs to be refinished.
What's the best choice here?
1. do nothing leave the cue all original
2. Send it to Tad to restore the cue
3. Save a lot of money and time, send cue off to "Nucues" who does great work in a timely manner for unbelievable prices. here is a link....
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=204790

Send it to Tad
 
Well my thinking was, if I leave the original wrap on the cue (having it cleaned up of course) The cue needs to be refinished so what would be the difference if Tad's son Fred cleans the shafts and applies new clear coat to the cue vs. Steve Klapp cleaning the shafts and applying new clear coat to the cue? From what I can tell Steve does a perfect job with his refinish work. I am sure Fred would be perfect also but two or three times the price with a much longer turn around time I would think.
My thinking was either way I will end up with a MINT 1972 Tad cue.

I'm not familiar with the type of finish that Steve Klapp uses, but I would presume that its a newer method probably urethane. Fred uses the same finish that Tad has used for years which is lacquer. Two distinctly different types of types of finish.
 
I'm not familiar with the type of finish that Steve Klapp uses, but I would presume that its a newer method probably urethane. Fred uses the same finish that Tad has used for years which is lacquer. Two distinctly different types of types of finish.

From reading Steve's thread I can say he uses an Automotive clear coat.
 
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