Piloted radial pin joint?

crawdaddio

crawdaddio

Used and registered
Silver Member
Can any of you guys make one? Has anyone ever done one? Just curious as I have never seen one. If you could, It seems the hit would be VERY stiff, any thoughts?
Thanks,
David~still searching for the perfect cue :D
 
crawdaddio said:
Can any of you guys make one? Has anyone ever done one? Just curious as I have never seen one. If you could, It seems the hit would be VERY stiff, any thoughts?
Thanks,
David~still searching for the perfect cue :D
Click to expand...
Murray Tucker has.
I don't know why it would hit stiffer.
chady9.jpg
 
I do like the radial pin. I have one on a Bob Frye cue. The only one he has made to date. The joint is flat faced Ivory to wood. Cue hits like a one piece. Very nice joint.
Don :cool:
 
My business partner has ordered one cue with a titanium piloted radial pin from Murray Tucker. Should be ready in a few month times. would be a interesting cue to play with.

Snookered<== too confused with so many joint pins.
 
Snookered said:
My business partner has ordered one cue with a titanium piloted radial pin from Murray Tucker. Should be ready in a few month times. would be a interesting cue to play with.

Snookered<== too confused with so many joint pins.
Click to expand...
Radial pins are nice.
We prefer the SW type pin b/c we grind the threads. We can make them as tight as we want.
But, the radial pins are very good too. I'd like to find that surgical radial pin I saw on a MidWest cue years ago. That one was the tightest radial one I've come across upon. I cannot find it though. :(
 
Joseph Cues said:
Radial pins are nice.
We prefer the SW type pin b/c we grind the threads. We can make them as tight as we want.
But, the radial pins are very good too. I'd like to find that surgical radial pin I saw on a MidWest cue years ago. That one was the tightest radial one I've come across upon. I cannot find it though. :(
Click to expand...

I quit using the radial pin some time ago and started machining my own screws. I prefer grinding the threads over taping. I need to get off of my butt and update my site so the pictures are more current.
 
Murray Tucker said:
I quit using the radial pin some time ago and started machining my own screws. I prefer grinding the threads over taping. I need to get off of my butt and update my site so the pictures are more current.
Click to expand...
You need to update that site with your new CNC tapering machine.
Then, you can send me that old one. :D
 
radial pins

Why are there so many questions about radial vs piloted radial vs this or that radial ? The very structural nature of a standard radial pin is sound. Have you guys forgotten how marketing in America works ? If it's not 'new and improved' every 3 weeks, Americans won't buy it. Most of this hype is just that - hype. Find a pin that provides the type of hit you like and get on with your life, the table is waitin'
 
What took you so long to reply :grin-square:

bobsbilliards said:
Why are there so many questions about radial vs piloted radial vs this or that radial ? The very structural nature of a standard radial pin is sound. Have you guys forgotten how marketing in America works ? If it's not 'new and improved' every 3 weeks, Americans won't buy it. Most of this hype is just that - hype. Find a pin that provides the type of hit you like and get on with your life, the table is waitin'
Click to expand...
 
zinzola

crawdaddio said:
Can any of you guys make one? Has anyone ever done one? Just curious as I have never seen one. If you could, It seems the hit would be VERY stiff, any thoughts?
Thanks,
David~still searching for the perfect cue :D
Click to expand...

tony's cues are piloted radial pins. there are many people that can vouch for their hit. i've played w/ his cues and they have a great hit, more on the stiffer side.
 
If you think the shape of the threads on a pin is going to change the hit of your cue, you've likely been listening to someone that doesn't know what they're talking about. I don't believe a pilot will make a noticeable difference to the hit either. It could never be done, but it would be awesome to set up a blind test with a bunch of identical cues with different joints.
Let people hit with them all and see if they can match up the type of joint to each cue.... It would be comical.
 
This is something I'm in total agreement with and is pure gold.

Taken from AZB forum - Main section
Specifically post #13.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=170593


"I am not a cue-maker or even a good player, but I am an engineer. If you don't mind an engineer thinking out loud for a second, I will offer this.

The role of the threaded pin (no matter what style, size, or thread count) is to snug the shaft against the butt tightly to simulate a single piece of wood.
The pin will be in tension and the wood at the mating faces of the joint will be in compression.
Once that happens, the pin is pretty much out of the equation. For the usual stroke (other than a power break) the pin does not bear any of the impact force; the faces of the joint do.
"Feel" will be transferred from the shaft to the butt through the mating faces of the joint."
Edited for spelling.
 
KJ Cues said:
This is something I'm in total agreement with and is pure gold.

Taken from AZB forum - Main section
Specifically post #13.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=170593


"I am not a cue-maker or even a good player, but I am an engineer. If you don't mind an engineer thinking out loud for a second, I will offer this.

The role of the threaded pin (no matter what style, size, or thread count) is to snug the shaft against the butt tightly to simulate a single piece of wood.
The pin will be in tension and the wood at the mating faces of the joint will be in compression.
Once that happens, the pin is pretty much out of the equation. For the usual stroke (other than a power break) the pin does not bear any of the impact force; the faces of the joint do.
"Feel" will be transferred from the shaft to the butt through the mating faces of the joint."
Edited for spelling.
Click to expand...

Boy do I like you - or at least that engineer:).

2 points worth re-emphasis:

1. How tightly the threads fit, in my experience, makes no discernible difference.

2. FACES of the joint...FACES of the joint...Faces of the joint.

Dale
 
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In my opinion, a good pilot is nothing more than a means to make a weak or sloppy pin work better.
With a good solid pin - no pilot is needed.
Properly faced, it could be argued that MORE JOINT FACE CONTACT is (in theory) better. But again, feeling the actual difference would be nearly impossible, given the relative significance to other factors.
 
Sheldon said:
In my opinion, a good pilot is nothing more than a means to make a weak or sloppy pin work better.
With a good solid pin - no pilot is needed.
Properly faced, it could be argued that MORE JOINT FACE CONTACT is (in theory) better. But again, feeling the actual difference would be nearly impossible, given the relative significance to other factors.
Click to expand...

IMHO - the piloted joint could be viewed as a carry over from the
early days of cues when it was needed to ensure alignment.

Those first cues were in the style of many Carom cues, a threaded section
on the bottom of a tenon extending from the shaft. Above the threads
was an unthreaded shoulder that fit snugly into the bore of the butt
side of the joint.

In those days cues were made on wood lathes, or modified lathes,
using hand held turning chisels.

No boring bars, no dial indicators, no independent 4 jaw chucks.

Dale
 
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