Router vibration
- Thread starter DanO
- Start date
No bushings but the bearings could be going out.. I would just buy a new one from Amazon for $70. .But if you are hell bent on replacing bearings here is where I would get them from.. http://www.vxb.com/
First, go to the following Porter Cable website:
http://servicenet.deltaportercable.com/Home
Choose the proper version of your laminate trimmer as there have been 3 different versions over the years. It will give you detailed parts lists as well as a pdf file showing you the parts and an assembly diagram. You can order the parts from the site or use the part number to locate them elsewhere.
In the future, you can do several things to improve the longevity of your routers. Most importantly is using a suitable speed controller and tachometer to make sure you are using the optimum rpm for the bit diameter used. Secondly, keep them clean and lubricated. Next, if you are currently using a simple router speed controller, try upgrading to a DC drive. Lastly if you have 220V available in your shop, as the routers wear out consider an upgrade to the European version of the router powered by a 220V DC drive. The 220V router runs quiter, smoother and cooler out of the box and with the DC drive it is IMO the best option for those of us who are unable to use a larger alternative.
http://servicenet.deltaportercable.com/Home
Choose the proper version of your laminate trimmer as there have been 3 different versions over the years. It will give you detailed parts lists as well as a pdf file showing you the parts and an assembly diagram. You can order the parts from the site or use the part number to locate them elsewhere.
In the future, you can do several things to improve the longevity of your routers. Most importantly is using a suitable speed controller and tachometer to make sure you are using the optimum rpm for the bit diameter used. Secondly, keep them clean and lubricated. Next, if you are currently using a simple router speed controller, try upgrading to a DC drive. Lastly if you have 220V available in your shop, as the routers wear out consider an upgrade to the European version of the router powered by a 220V DC drive. The 220V router runs quiter, smoother and cooler out of the box and with the DC drive it is IMO the best option for those of us who are unable to use a larger alternative.
Wiggle the spindle side to side
Feel any movement? If so you need bearings. Just take off the Spindle nut and cutting tool. You now see a spanner nut with two holes in it. Either make a simple wrench with some steel flat stock and two hardened socket head screws, or buy a spanner to remove it. Remove the rear plastic cover, and let set to the side. Pull the whole spindle intact with bearings from the housing. When removing or pressing on new bearings you need to press against the inner surface near the spindle, never on the outer bearing race. You can use the outer race to press only on the old bearings yopu are removing, if that helps any. You can get the part numbers of the bearings from the old ones on your router, and new bearings are dirt cheap on Ebay. I think I got enough for 6 sets for maybe $20. Clean everything and put back together in reverse order. Just be careful to not damage the brushes. Order new brushes and keep them on hand if you intend to do this often, and a new front aluminum spindle housing is not a bad idea either. Just routine parts that can go bad. After the first time it will take you less than an hour for the whole job, max! The bearings are common, the front one if I remember right, is just a skate board bearing. Make sure you buy sealed bearings. Good luck!
Feel any movement? If so you need bearings. Just take off the Spindle nut and cutting tool. You now see a spanner nut with two holes in it. Either make a simple wrench with some steel flat stock and two hardened socket head screws, or buy a spanner to remove it. Remove the rear plastic cover, and let set to the side. Pull the whole spindle intact with bearings from the housing. When removing or pressing on new bearings you need to press against the inner surface near the spindle, never on the outer bearing race. You can use the outer race to press only on the old bearings yopu are removing, if that helps any. You can get the part numbers of the bearings from the old ones on your router, and new bearings are dirt cheap on Ebay. I think I got enough for 6 sets for maybe $20. Clean everything and put back together in reverse order. Just be careful to not damage the brushes. Order new brushes and keep them on hand if you intend to do this often, and a new front aluminum spindle housing is not a bad idea either. Just routine parts that can go bad. After the first time it will take you less than an hour for the whole job, max! The bearings are common, the front one if I remember right, is just a skate board bearing. Make sure you buy sealed bearings. Good luck!
When I did my bearings, the bearing shop told me that I could get higher quality, tighter tolerance bearings, but it would cost alot more. he gave a ballpark of about $20 a bearing. You decide if it's worth it:smile:
I made a delrin piece to press the bearings out, and in. If I can find it, I'll post the measurements and a pic.
Dave
I made a delrin piece to press the bearings out, and in. If I can find it, I'll post the measurements and a pic.
Dave
Diy
I seem to remember it was right hand, you will know right away, the nut is not torqued that tight, it is threaded into an aluminum housing.
I toyed with the idea of various high tech bearings, like Ceramics, but stayed with OEM quality. They are not expensive and in the future: when you hear more noise than usual, just replace them, do not wait for them to scream or vibrate. You could end up having to replace more than the bearings if you wait too long.
Oh, you will need a small male "torx" wrench to remove the brushes. I think you should have enough info to handle this job.
I think the bearing numbers are:
608 , and 6002 . I used double sealed bearings, they can be had in various shield or open styles. I think OEM was double metal shields, though I used double neoprene on mine. That shielding will be a two letter code after the number I gave you. Like: ZZ for double metal, RS for rubber seals, I used 608RS for the rear bearing, and 6002RS for the tool side(front) bearing. They work great for me.
PM me if I can help further ... Lou.
I seem to remember it was right hand, you will know right away, the nut is not torqued that tight, it is threaded into an aluminum housing.
I toyed with the idea of various high tech bearings, like Ceramics, but stayed with OEM quality. They are not expensive and in the future: when you hear more noise than usual, just replace them, do not wait for them to scream or vibrate. You could end up having to replace more than the bearings if you wait too long.
Oh, you will need a small male "torx" wrench to remove the brushes. I think you should have enough info to handle this job.
I think the bearing numbers are:
608 , and 6002 . I used double sealed bearings, they can be had in various shield or open styles. I think OEM was double metal shields, though I used double neoprene on mine. That shielding will be a two letter code after the number I gave you. Like: ZZ for double metal, RS for rubber seals, I used 608RS for the rear bearing, and 6002RS for the tool side(front) bearing. They work great for me.
PM me if I can help further ... Lou.
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bought
800 series 2 1/4 hp porta cable router for my cnc 149.00 new 167.00 to my door i think it was hubbards hardware. if interested pm me i will pull up my paper work.
mike
800 series 2 1/4 hp porta cable router for my cnc 149.00 new 167.00 to my door i think it was hubbards hardware. if interested pm me i will pull up my paper work.
mike
Grainger has them, as well. $11 and $19 for the 608 and 6002, respectively. You may want to double check how they're sealed and the specs (listed on the website)...there's several choices it appears.
Regards,
Jason.