aftermarket shafts.

Hell, I agree with you. I dont know what I am talking about.

Does anyone have an aftermarket shaft that fits my Szam?

Gus, is now spinning.

LOL

Ken

Let him spin hes not the one who has his tournament performance or cash on the line the player is and i say play what you feel best with and for some that may be a budweiser cue or a broomstick with a tip. That wouldent be my choice but im not going to knock anyone who chooses that. I like the play of my predator shafts and would probably have bought one of their cues if i could get the weight balance point and look i wanted but thats not in their production line so a custom with a predator shafts just happens to fit for me. No offense to your gus or anyother quality cue builder.
Monty
 
you are correct on that but i dont see how that relates to the discussion, and there are other advantages to laminated shafts not just the low deflection properties that are the main feature most of them promote.


The discussion is that OP is asking questions and I'm answering them.

The only other advantage to the laminated shafts I can see is that you can easily unwarp a warped shaft.

Extra spin, I'm not so sure about. The more flexible the shaft the more action.

As for all that radial consistency I don't buy it.
It is as consistent as the weight of those things which can be different by as much as 0.6-0.8oz.
Since no manufacturing process is perfect there is variance.
 
The discussion is that OP is asking questions and I'm answering them.

The only other advantage to the laminated shafts I can see is that you can easily unwarp a warped shaft.

Extra spin, I'm not so sure about. The more flexible the shaft the more action.

As for all that radial consistency I don't buy it.
It is as consistent as the weight of those things which can be different by as much as 0.6-0.8oz.
Since no manufacturing process is perfect there is variance.

I wasnt trying to argue with you. I do however buy the radial consistency not in respect to weight but to shaft flex. A single piece of wood will flex easier one direction than the other due to grains and peculiarities in the given piece of wood. laminated is more uniform no matter whivh way it is turned in my opinion, if you disagree i guess we have to agree to disagree..
Monty
 
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after everyones help and a lil research. i have decided on the universal shaft. thanks for all the help.

john
 
The discussion is that OP is asking questions and I'm answering them.

The only other advantage to the laminated shafts I can see is that you can easily unwarp a warped shaft.

Extra spin, I'm not so sure about. The more flexible the shaft the more action.

As for all that radial consistency I don't buy it.
It is as consistent as the weight of those things which can be different by as much as 0.6-0.8oz.
Since no manufacturing process is perfect there is variance.

Radial Consistency is THE advantage..... A standard shaft or LD shaft can perform equally well as long as you identify the pivot length.

LD shafts usually have a pivot point further back than you can find on a standard shaft to the point that many people who try and switch fail miserably because their brain is used to more severe cueing angles of a forward pivot point and refuses to accept that the new angles for the LD rear pivot are so much less as to almost appear that you can parallel aim....

Radial consistency comes in because the grain structure in standard shafts can have a direct impact on the amount of squirt that the cue creates depending on the radial orientation. Notice that I said can... A standards shaft can be close to consistent but in most cases it will be hit or miss because even the better cue makers don't test for consistency but go on tightness of grain and appearance...

Back when predator first hit the market I visited one of their booths at a tradeshow... I was walking by and they had this funky apparatus hanging out front that was basically a couple of wires and a protractor. You can do the test they did at home if you wish by simply hanging the end of the cue off the end of a table and using a yardstick or other means of measurement to quantify the results...

Hang the shaft horizontally so you can mark the base position on your measuring device, I.E zero on a protractor......

Now you will need to come up with several weights that you will hang from the end of the cue... I think they were only using 1pound 3pounds and 5 pounds.... The weight differences are to simulate hitting the ball at slow medium and hard... I am sure there are actual weight numbers that could be attributed to different speeds but I am not an engineer nor do I play one on tv so 1,3 5 it is... even tho that might only simulate super soft, soft and medium soft.........

Start by hanging the lightest weight from the end of the shaft by a looped string over the shaft.... Note how far from the baseline the shaft bends..... Now rotate the shaft and you will likely watch the tip of the shaft move up and down on your measuring device....

If i recall correctly I was using a Russ Esperitu at the time and as my shaft was rolled the protractor readings went from 3degrees to almost 10 degrees. In hindsight I know this was because this standard shaft had a definite spine to it... Old school players used to actually mark the spine and try and keep it facing up or down when holding the cue....

They repeated the test using the predator shaft and I watched as the reading stayed the same as they rotated the shaft... I want to say it was 7 all the way around.... It's been 16 years so the actual number has been lost to Jaeger or Crown......

The 2nd part of the test where you use differing weights is more or less a blur to specifics but I do recall there was more bend to my shaft as the weight increased than there was to the engineered shaft....

The other way to tell if you have a radially consistent shaft is to do the pivot test from drdaves website at the end of this video and rotate your shaft to see if the pivot length changes..... This can be more subjective than the first test since 10% change would likely be less than an inch difference but that difference can be the difference in a make of a miss..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5T3ai0SM1aw&feature=player_embedded
 
I went through the marking of the spine phase too, gave up on it and don’t care but then again the shafts I have now are better quality.

Since, you seem to have some evidence from 1st hand observations and not some video like Meucci deflection joke than I will take your word for it.

However, having experience with countless cues and shafts I can tell you one thing if you put 5 predator shafts next to each other, they all will play different.
They can feel different, have different weight, slight variation in diameter, different tip size despite supposedly being exactly the same.

So, with all those things being just a little different I’m skeptical that every predator ( or put other name in) will be radially consistent.
Perhaps more often than a normal shaft but in the end none of it means all that much.

I have played with cues that were complete junk and played 100 times better than fancy customs, go figure.
 
hmm, thinkin maybe I shoulda hung on to that Stout,,,,,,LOL

Glad it's workin for ya,,,,,,,

Hehehe.
Love that Stout, ferrule needed a little glue, still need to change the tip but the shaft is amazing.
The taper is great and LD on it is better than any predator.

I'm going to have to x-ray this thing.

I got lots of cues but this is my choice. I normally like light, front balanced cues, no wrap. Stout is heavy and back balanced, has wrap but moves really smooth.

If you come across another one let me know. :)
 
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