Does anyone have advice on signing a cue, without physically signing it? I am aware of branding, and have access to branding irons. I thought that there might be something better and maybe even less costly?
signature
- Thread starter Roger Illinois
- Start date
Transfer decals....
Ditto!!
http://www.decalpaper.com/
Sign your name nice and neat like you want it, scan it in to your computer, and save it as a graphics file. Get some of this paper, use the graphics program of your choice to print it, in various sizes, on this paper, and print them out. They have paper for Laser Jet and for Ink Jet printers.
Then all you have to do is put a couple of coats of clear acrylic over the top of the paper and let it dry.
Cut out the size signature that you want for the particular cue, soak the cutout decal in warm water for a few minutes and then slide it off of the backing paper onto your cue in the position of your choice. Let dry for a few hours. Proceed to finish your cue with clear coat (of your choice, of course) and the edges of the decal will fade away, leaving you with the signature that you desire.
The only drawback would be if you want a white signature - neither Laser Jet nor Ink Jet printers can print in white.
Works great!
HTH
Gary
Stickers have no place on a pool cue. Plus, they can be removed to easily. Engraving the butt cap is my favorite form of sig on a cue, but you can also engrave under the wrap, or make some signature rings, or inlays. Try and refrain from signing between the points, it is fugly, and really f's up a cue, imo.
Above the butt cap is ok, i guess..... Remember, a cue is a piece of art, and as such, should be signed at the bottom. The ONLY sig i've ever thought looked good between the points was a branded TS.
Above the butt cap is ok, i guess..... Remember, a cue is a piece of art, and as such, should be signed at the bottom. The ONLY sig i've ever thought looked good between the points was a branded TS.
Great info Gary, thanks! Do you apply the decal before or after a sealer/base coat? I would think after, before your finish/top coat.
MCC,
That is correct, after the sealer, you need a smooth surface to apply it to.
Gary
Hi,
I won't sign my cues because my penmanship is not consistent. So I go with the CNC engraving of my "E".
My friend Darrin Hill's signature is awesome and looks great on his cues. I have seen some top makers signature on their cues and it looks like crap. I won't mention any names but at the least, you need to use a cartography fine point india ink pen not a fine sharpie.
Rick
I won't sign my cues because my penmanship is not consistent. So I go with the CNC engraving of my "E".
My friend Darrin Hill's signature is awesome and looks great on his cues. I have seen some top makers signature on their cues and it looks like crap. I won't mention any names but at the least, you need to use a cartography fine point india ink pen not a fine sharpie.
Rick
I never thought to ask that question. I've been thinking of a good and easy way to brand my cues but haven't come up with anything. That's an excellent solution. Thanks.
Thank You, to everyone on AZ.
