Be Careful What You Buy Online

blackhawk357m

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I got these phenolic & turquiose stitch rings from an online supplier. I guess he made the "D" & "E" rings the same depth for the turquiose because the "E" ring is fine, but the "D" ring cut past the turquiose and into the phenolic. VERY hard lesson learned.

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I know

I have a cue that looks just like that. I made some billet rings with the strips inserted about .100. That is just not enough (you were right Rick). If you lose a little concentricity with the ring, the insert material will disappear on one side. It works find for the butt cap location but nowhere else.

The inset material, in your case, the turquoise, was not deep enough. It needs to be about .200 and it can be used in most everything but the joint.

Do the math. If the ring starts out at 1.300 and the inset material is cut in .200................. 2 times .200 is .400. 1.300 minus .400 means that you can cut that ring to .900 before the inset material starts to go away. Even at the A joint position (handle to forearm) the diameter is just over 1.000. So you could use them there also if you are careful about concentricity.

Oh well........... turn it off and start again. You probably can save it.

Kim

PS: it makes me feel good to know that I am not the only one that does this stuff.
 
lol, yeah, those 2 turquoise squares were the only onesthat were left, the rest of the ring is solid phenolic. But I bought these online and didn't make them myself. I don't have the tools yet to do that, oh....but soon lol
 
I'm pretty sure I can fiure it out, just don't have the funds right now to get the end mills. I have the cuesmith deluxe with index and the router, just need the bits and materials :)
 
I'm pretty sure I can fiure it out, just don't have the funds right now to get the end mills. I have the cuesmith deluxe with index and the router, just need the bits and materials :)

I use a 3 wing slot cutter....... they don't break like end mills. An arbor and a 3 wing cutter are under $20 online.

Kim
 
All of us have had to learn one thing or more the hard way, but It will help you remember to check for Yourself and not take anything for granted in the future. It's all part of the process. I know the let down you must be feeling, Looks like that was a nice cue you had in the works there.

I understand that this was purchased, but When making your own basic design billet You can do the math as already mentioned, It's easy enough, or an even easier way is to simply measure your tenon size, set your calipers to half of that number, put one end of them to your center, and get a mark, then use something held to that mark to draw or etch a circle that is the same size as your tenon on the face of the rod that you are using for your billet. if you want you can then make another circle to represent the OD of the finish size, and then you know that somewhere between those should get your depth in the range of where you need to be, and can use the mark on the face as a visual reference. looking at things from a similar prospective When purchasing billet though, You can use the calipers to make sure they won't wipe out before installing them in the cue.

Another thing to be concerned about is using a billet that is too wide for the amount of indexed points, because given the wrong set of circumstances, the borders can be wiped out as well.

Greg
 
BTW I probably should of mentioned in My post that the second situation I referred to would more then likely wipe out the borders while your actually in the process of slotting the billet. A little bit of a less severe situation since there not in the cue at that point in the build.
 
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