This is why I am not a believer in conventional wisdom. It leads to errors. The original poster might have had the right idea in his mind, but he did not portray it correctly.
Now, others are reading the material and are making an assumption that it is the right thing to do.
There is absolutely no benefit in counting the balls after the break. In your mind you will decide which group gives you the highest chance to win the game, and that formulation is not assisted in any way by counting the balls.
Absolutely correct! If the 8-ball rules one is playing by allow for an open table after a ball is made on the break (and not the "take what you make" rules), it doesn't make a hill o' beans difference how many balls of each category are on the table. Rather, what's most important, is the layout of each category of balls.
Yesterday evening, I'd just gotten back from a business trip in northern Massachusetts -- drove 4 hours straight from the customer site, right to the poolroom where my 8-ball league was playing last night (still had my suitcase in the car, and fortunately I took my cues with me). I was able to make it to league obligation on time, and additionally, my team was short, so I had to play twice. I was exhausted from the long drive (through rush-hour traffic in Boston, MA and Hartford, CT no less), but a cup of coffee helped. I won both my matches 7 - 2 and 7 - 1 (with several BnRs in there, a 3-pack in the second match). What assisted me, was *how* I played my matches. Being not as energetic as I'd normally be, I took a little more time to examine the table layout, and I made decisions based on the following (I look at all these things before I shoot a shot):
1. Is the table even runnable to begin with? Are both categories so tied-up that it's not even worth attempting a runout (which, if failed, will work against you -- you're breaking out your opponent's ball category)? I look to see where there might be an easy lockup safety opportunity -- where I pocket a ball to establish my category, and then play a safety that has my opponent kicking at a ball right out of the chute. Look for "barricades" -- a grouping of *your* ball category that you can hide the cue ball behind where no window is offered at the opponent's category.
2. What category of balls is blocked from a pocket by the opposite caterogy? (All other things considered, I often choose the category that is blocking the other category from pockets.)
3. Is the 8-ball itself blocked from a pocket -- and which category is it? (All other things considered, I often choose that category of balls that is blocking the 8-ball from a pocket.)
4. What trouble spots exist on the table? Does one category have more clusters than the other? (All other things considered, I often choose the category that is the least clustered. An exception may be where clusters have easy break balls, where I can leverage my 14.1 skills to effect simple break outs.)
5. Bank shots vs. trying to use the cue ball to break balls out -- which do you choose? Depends on the table layout; I might choose to leave a ball where it is, so I can bank it (especially if leaving it there blocks my opponent from shooting that ball). I play a lot of one pocket, so banks don't scare me at all -- I exploit bank opportunities, in fact. Someone with lesser banking skills may choose to effect a breakout of the that ball. Leverage *your* particular skills in each situation.
There are many such decisions like this, but these are the high-level ones. Obviously, every table layout is different, and you have to "see" the opportunities offered to you. Leverage your skills in doing so -- skills built by playing players better than you, and leverage your particular specialties.
Also, take into mind the type of equipment you're playing on -- I played on a 9-footer last night, so I was not adverse to bumping balls to break out clusters, taking bank shots, etc. On a 9-footer, I can really let my stroke out. On a barbox (especially a Valley with a non-standard cue ball), I would make different decisions -- I wouldn't be so quick to bump balls in that tight real estate, because unless one is very careful, you can bump a ball and break out a cluster, only to have each of those two balls separate and create two or more clusters with other balls to replace the one you just broke up!
JoeyA: I know you're after a "cheat sheet" (Cliff Notes?) for playing 8-ball, which is not possible. You have to tap the knowledge out there (books, DVDs, people), and take it to the table in practice. Reading a "tip sheet" ain't going to make you a better 8-ball player, especially in such a short period of time.
But I hope the above helps add to your list, in whatever function that list serves.
-Sean