Differences Between Break Cues & How To Use Them?

[sfmc-x1]

I picked up a Gulyassy Sledgehammer Jump/Break a few months ago as a dedicated breaker.

I chose the Gulyassy after reading reviews found here, and the price & timing seemed right to grab at it. The fact that it's also a jump cue was an added bonus.

The previous cue I used for breaking was a converted house cue, which also used to be my regular player.

My question is: What are the internal differences between popular break cues like the one I have, and any of the newer Gulyassy line, and other builders ect...
What are the differences that set them apart from each other?

My Experience with the cue has been interesting. The hit and feedback I've gotten from the cue has been eh' to poor. I thought it due large in part to the phenolic ferule/tip.

So, since owning it I've had a Tiger Emerald Medium tip put on it. I explained to the guy that I didn't like the hard plastic feedback I was getting when I struck the balls, and the feeling of not knowing what the cue ball was going to do after the follow through.

That tip was suggested to accommodate getting me the positive feedback I was looking for (softer), and to not completely eliminate the effectiveness of the jump cue(still hard enough).

I've gone on to use the cue as often as possible, and with constant use like all things, I've become very used to the cue. And it serves it's purpose of breaking balls pretty well.

So the other question that plagues me: Is there a right way and a wrong way to use a break cue? How does having a purpose built break cue maximize break effectiveness over... say, a house cue?

 

[mbj]

I have the Pechauer Break Cue and I love it. It's weighted differently (forward weighted) and has a black diamond tip. I'm not saying it's all the cue, but last night in 9 ball, I broke 4 times. Made the 9 once in the side, rattled once in the side and had it going in the corner once before it goes knocked away by the 5. Last time I played 9 ball, I made the 9 twice out of 4 breaks.

Every break, the balls were perfectly set up with open shots on the one and at least 1 balls down. Unfortunately, I'm shooting so god awful that I could do nothing with it.

I'm absolutely with you on the phenolic tip. I couldn't stand any of the break cues I tried with one.

As far as the right way or wrong way to use a break cue ... I think the real benefit is being able to get comfortable with using the same cue all the time as opposed to picking random house cues off the wall. You get to practice all the time with the same cue you'll use in matches.

 

[Black-Balled]

Great choice, buying a Gulyassy.

I will agree that it can be difficult to control that phenolic tip, but I have tried damn near everything and have had the best results with it. Especially with jumping...that Sledgehammer is like cheating.

That said, I won't use it with my own balls...it puts tiny cracks on the CB...and phenolic tips have been declared illegal by some pool organizations

And if there is a Magic Rack involved...it might not make it out of the case!

 

[theeviltwin69]

I used to use a G10 tip on my Xbreaker and I loved it,hit like a sledge,and jumped like Jordan.
I just changed the tip to a layered J/Break tip,now I have no break & can not jump.
It will take some time to get used to any new tip leather or plastic tip.On the break shot I feel there really is no need for much feedback beyond a solid center ball hit.Jump shots are way different I'm sure that after I learn the stroke to jump with a leather tip I'll enjoy the feed back and control from it.
You really have to spend some time getting used to any new tip to learn it's characteristics,benefits and flaws.I'm going to give my new leather tip 15 solid days of practice,to learn it's stroke!
The benefits of a phenolic/G10 tip on the BREAK are instantly recognized.

 

[brandoncook26]

My question is: What are the internal differences between popular break cues like the one I have, and any of the newer Gulyassy line, and other builders ect...
What are the differences that set them apart from each other?

I think every cue is a little different. Even two sledgehammers are not exactly the same. I have tried many different cues and have more or less discovered what I like and what I don't. I find that weight and shaft diameter are the two things that make the biggest difference with me. You can really make anything work, but some may work better for your particular style. There is no way anyone can tell you what is best for you, you just have to try and find what you like.

So the other question that plagues me: Is there a right way and a wrong way to use a break cue? How does having a purpose built break cue maximize break effectiveness over... say, a house cue?

Having a break cue allows you to get comfortable with the specifics of that cue over time. My timing changes with different cues, but I think this is more about the weight than anything. Also, the way cues break differ depending on speed. I found that using a BK2, I had to slow down the break just a hair to get the maximum effect. Also, tip placement on the cueball changes between cues. I just got another break cue to mess with last weekend. I had to change the speed and where I hit the cueball to maximize the break.

Ideally, in my opinion, the best break cue you can have is your playing cue. It is the cue you are most comfortable with and will probably perform the best with. The primary reason I don't use my playing cue to break with is to save my tip. Breaking with it changes the shape and wears it down quicker. This is dependent on how hard you break though. I have an average break of 20-21 mph; putting everything I have into a break I can get up to about 28mph but cannot control anything. At 21mph I feel like I get the best spread. Ideally, I would like to work up to about 24mph, but I can't get the timing down yet to get the power and control right now. Still working on it though.

 

[sfmc-x1]

I'm absolutely with you on the phenolic tip. I couldn't stand any of the break cues I tried with one. As far as the right way or wrong way to use a break cue ... I think the real benefit is being able to get comfortable with using the same cue all the time as opposed to picking random house cues off the wall. You get to practice all the time with the same cue you'll use in matches.

My main hang up with the cue was the phenolic tip. Adjusting to the cue since replacing it has been a lot smoother.

Great choice, buying a Gulyassy.

Thanks, I'd say I'm satisfied.

I will agree that it can be difficult to control that phenolic tip, but I have tried damn near everything and have had the best results with it. Especially with jumping...that Sledgehammer is like cheating.

I'm not a proficient jumper, and I'm even worse at jumping the rock on a bar box. The cue repairman stated that the new tip would be soft enough to get more transfer feedback and hard enough to still be an effective jumper. I bought the spiel.

On the break shot I feel there really is no need for much feedback beyond a solid center ball hit.
You really have to spend some time getting used to any new tip to learn it's characteristics,benefits and flaws.

I break using using center, and even when the balls spread well it didn't feel right. Figuring it may solve an issue, I couldn't wait to slap a piece of hide on there.

I think every cue is a little different. Even two sledgehammers are not exactly the same.

Interesting?

I find that weight and shaft diameter are the two things that make the biggest difference with me...
You can really make anything work, but some may work better for your particular style...
Having a break cue allows you to get comfortable with the specifics of that cue over time...
My timing changes with different cues, but I think this is more about the weight than anything...
Also, the way cues break differ depending on speed...
tip placement on the cueball changes between cues...

I agree.

Ideally, in my opinion, the best break cue you can have is your playing cue. It is the cue you are most comfortable with and will probably perform the best with. The primary reason I don't use my playing cue to break with is to save my tip. Breaking with it changes the shape and wears it down quicker.

This and other reasons as stated above is the rational why break cues are purchased. I feel pretty lucky in that my J/B is similar to my player in weight and dimension. I agree that speed has to be adjusted for weight on the break stroke.

Thanks for the feedback so far.

 

[Celophanewrap]

Break cues, light or heavy?

Break cues are an interesting topic. Most folks I've talked with about would prefer the 5 lb sledge hammer. I took a different approach and it seemed to work out great for me. First, I agree whole heartedly that your playing cue would absolutely make your best break cue, there is something to be said for continuity, however some shafts and tips just don't do well to break with. My playing cue is an original Predator from their first couple of years of production with the original 314 shaft and the Kamui SS tip, let's face it - this just isn't a breaking cue. It's still in excellent condition and I intend to keep it that way. My break cue is the lightest cue I could find, in my case it's a custom 15 oz sneaky with a Samsara tip. The Samsara is off the scale as for "hardness" and it's all leather. Picking a break cue I took a scientific approach. I was breaking with a heavy break cue and it was pretty bad. What I discovered (from going through some old physics notes) is that I really wasn't tall enough or strong enough to generate the kind of speed and force necessary to break an 8-ball or 9-ball rack and I also noticed that my arm swing was way to short to generate enough speed/force for a decent break. With a lighter cue, the arm swing is much faster, the break is 100 times better and it allows me to be much more precise instead of swinging for the fence like a great many folks do. So, some may disagree, but my thought is that for me, or someone my size a lighter cue with a very heard tip is best for breaking. The bigger and stronger you are, the heavier the cue can be. My thoughts anyways...

 

[theeviltwin69]

My Xbreaker is also very light and has a very hard leather tip installed in place of the original G10 fiberglass.

I just replaced the tip with a Talisman B/J tip,that I got for free with an order of 3 other tips.The tip breaks awesome,although I had to change my timing just a little.I needed to replace the original G10 tip so I figured I'd give it a try,if I find I do not like it I can just put the G10 back on.
Every cue and tip combo requires slightly different timing and strokes.You have to find the combination that works for you.

Experimentation is needed till you find the right setup.I've gone through a lot of B/J cues till I found what worked for me.Spend some time with every B/J cue you can get your hands on.

I will say I got lucky with my Xbreaker I only paid $100 for it and it was brand new.

 

[cfrandy]

If you have had trouble with phenolic tips or your league has banned them, you owe it to yourself to try the Tiger IceBreaker tip. You get all the feedback of a leather tip (since only leather touches the cueball) with all the advantages of a super-hard phenolic tip! Here's what Tiger says about the tip:

"Tiger Products challenged itself in creating a jump/break cue tip that makes it easier for the user to execute close - quarters aerial jump shots and execute an iceberg shattering break shot. All of this without sacrificing accurate cue ball control and avoiding the dreaded miscue. Following three years of tireless research and development, we at Tiger Products have created the definitive jump/break cue tip of the future! This hybrid cue tip utilizes an ultra hard laminated leather core, with *leather contact surface, allowing for greater chalk adhesion and the phenolic jacket restricts cue tip expansion upon impact. So, all the power you put in to your stroke transfers immediately and accurately to the cue ball without cause for miscue. The result is: increased break shot speeds and "light as feather" jump shots! Manufactured with the VACULAM™ process, this copyrighted Tiger technology has produced an incredibly powerful tip!"

 

[n0th1ng]

Break cues are an interesting topic. Most folks I've talked with about would prefer the 5 lb sledge hammer. I took a different approach and it seemed to work out great for me. First, I agree whole heartedly that your playing cue would absolutely make your best break cue, there is something to be said for continuity, however some shafts and tips just don't do well to break with. My playing cue is an original Predator from their first couple of years of production with the original 314 shaft and the Kamui SS tip, let's face it - this just isn't a breaking cue. It's still in excellent condition and I intend to keep it that way. My break cue is the lightest cue I could find, in my case it's a custom 15 oz sneaky with a Samsara tip. The Samsara is off the scale as for "hardness" and it's all leather. Picking a break cue I took a scientific approach. I was breaking with a heavy break cue and it was pretty bad. What I discovered (from going through some old physics notes) is that I really wasn't tall enough or strong enough to generate the kind of speed and force necessary to break an 8-ball or 9-ball rack and I also noticed that my arm swing was way to short to generate enough speed/force for a decent break. With a lighter cue, the arm swing is much faster, the break is 100 times better and it allows me to be much more precise instead of swinging for the fence like a great many folks do. So, some may disagree, but my thought is that for me, or someone my size a lighter cue with a very heard tip is best for breaking. The bigger and stronger you are, the heavier the cue can be. My thoughts anyways...

I am definitely in the same case with you.I dont know much about physic but I found that light cues suit me the best even tho I am not tall and strong enough to produce a tremendous break. I play more accurately and have more control and feedback with light cues. Sadly, I can't reduce the weight of my Mezz cue to below 18oz as my break cue