shaft / tip questions

ENGLISH!

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Just played 4+ hrs. w/ a Mcdermott i2 & an OB Classic I picked up from nme007 in a very pleasant transaction. The shafts r in great condition but I'm a little @ a loss & confused. Even thought I won every game I could not control the cue ball any better , & in fact. less than I can with the stock Buschka shaft, the apparently 'juiced' 314 Cat, or a slip on tip bar cue. I'm not sure what tips r on the shafts but one appears to be a Kamuri black. The OB Classic seemed to hit softer & hardly could draw the ball. The i2 seemed to hit more solid w/ more cue ball control. Neither one caused me the aiming concerns I have w/ the juiced 314 CAT, which is what I want. but neither can control the cue ball as well. FYI IIhave been plsying for 46 yrs. & am very accomplished as I shoot most of my shots w/ English! I plan to do a non-playing test, but for now I think the lack of cue ball movement control must be in the tips. Any helpful ideas welcome.
 
I played with a McDermott I-2 shaft with a Moori medium tip for about 6 months and really liked it. The I-series shafts have a carbon rod in them and I believe that gives you a very solid hit. Then I bought a used I-3 shaft which is my current playing cue. It has a Moori soft tip on it. I was leery about going to a 11.75mm tip diameter but I find that I can apply english with geometric precision to the cue ball because of the smaller tip. Again, because of the carbon rod, it's not whippy and gives a very solid hit. I've tried Kamui brown and black tips but prefer the Moori soft. I also tried the OB-2 shaft and didn't see any difference with the I-3 but did find the OB-2 tip distracting. As you probably know, tips (as well as shafts) are very subjective. What I like may not be your cup of tea. The only way to know is to try various tips yourself on the I-2 and see which one is best for you. That's one of the main reasons I learned to change tips myself. Good luck in your quest for finding the "Ideal".
 
The first thing you give up with just about any ld shaft is feel.
If you can shoot fine with a standard shaft there is no need to go to a ld shaft.
 
I find that playing with a LDshaft is less of a guessing game.What I mean
is that if I order a Predator from any site,I know that as long as its straight the shafts will perform very well.I find with Maple shafts that
it seems alot harder to find a great one specially from production cues
and even with custom cues to.In all my years of playing I've probably
played with only a handful of exceptional maple shafts,one of them being from a Brian Mordt cue which plays incredible.I think a great maple shaft could equal or outplay any LD shaft,the problem is finding them.
 
ENGLISH...Getting action on the CB (draw for example) is less about what kind of shaft or tip you use, than it is about having an accurate and repeatable stroke.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

Just played 4+ hrs. w/ a Mcdermott i2 & an OB Classic I picked up from nme007 in a very pleasant transaction. The shafts r in great condition but I'm a little @ a loss & confused. Even thought I won every game I could not control the cue ball any better , & in fact. less than I can with the stock Buschka shaft, the apparently 'juiced' 314 Cat, or a slip on tip bar cue. I'm not sure what tips r on the shafts but one appears to be a Kamuri black. The OB Classic seemed to hit softer & hardly could draw the ball. The i2 seemed to hit more solid w/ more cue ball control. Neither one caused me the aiming concerns I have w/ the juiced 314 CAT, which is what I want. but neither can control the cue ball as well. FYI IIhave been plsying for 46 yrs. & am very accomplished as I shoot most of my shots w/ English! I plan to do a non-playing test, but for now I think the lack of cue ball movement control must be in the tips. Any helpful ideas welcome.
 
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