Aimpoint Reference System

P

plfrg

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Here is another aiming system I refer to as the aimpoint reference system. The purpose of the thread is to provide a reference tool that enables people to find the aimpoint more reliably.

First, I’m not claiming that it’s new. It’s based on the ghost ball method and has been discussed by others before in many similar ways. Using an aimpoint at the base of the ghost ball has been around for a while.

Second, I don’t believe it’s the ‘best’ system as there are too many examples of top players using many varied systems that work quite well for them. There is no ‘best’ system, although for many reasons I believe an aimpoint system is superior to many systems, however, it’s up to the individual user to find which system works well for them.

The main purpose of this is thread is to show people another simple tool that enables them to find the aimpoint reference more reliably for a variety of different shots on the table (photos in next post).

The image below shows the basic components of the aimpoint reference system. Each component is important to understand and use the aimpoint system. Normally I don’t show all of these components at once but for brevity did so for the AZB forum.

I’ve never been able to ‘see’ the ghost ball so I had to figure something else out. The next post shows the aimpoint tool used to ‘see’ where the aimpoint is.

For those that want to lecture about how a ghost ball method doesn’t deal with throw, squirt, or swerve, etc… No method deals with these issues and I believe they are best dealt with by experience and feel. The aimpoint method provides a solid base to work from. Experience and practice will provide the final key components needed to round out any aiming system which in the end I believe depends a great deal on learning what it feels like when the shot is 'on'.
 

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The aimpoint tool

As stated previously, I’ve never been able to ‘see’ the ghost ball so I decided to find a system that uses the same starting point but had something real to look at.

I’ve seen several tools online that attempted to show where the aimpoint was (Cranfields arrow was close) but I did not find any very useful so I mixed them all together and made one that works for me. It’s a mixture of the donut holes plus the Cranefield arrow plus the magic rack.

Anyone can make this tool and use it to see exactly where the aimpoint should be. You can use it on close shots, long shots, large cut shots and straight in shots to see exactly where an aimpoint is. Once you use it enough you start to develop a sense/feel for when the shot is on or not. That feel becomes a critical part of your aiming process.

See the image below. It shows a plastic piece with a hole in one end and a small black dot where the aimpoint is. Set the OB onto the hole like you would a ball on a donut and turn the aimpoint until it lines up with the target point. Then you can move your CB anywhere to see what the aimpoint looks like from that position.

You can make one that is mobile and movable or you can print these out on postage address labels and stick them onto the table for repeat shots. Many people I’ve taught have found these useful.

If you’re having trouble with aiming and in the Portland Oregon area and want to practice, let me know thru a PM. I have a 7’ diamond table in my basement and would be happy to provide you with a sample aimpoint reference. I don’t charge anything at this point as it’s not a business, just a hobby.

I have several other tools and methods to ingrain the aimpoint method as well. They’re easy to use and have helped me develop a solid base to work from.
 

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and here it is with the OB and CB in position. You can move it anywhere on the table to start to get a feel for what the aimpoint looks like from any position on the table.

Just shoot straight at the aimpoint. If you roll the CB over the aimpoint you will make the ball almost always... at least you will once you learn to deal with throw which is not difficult to do. However, that's another thread...
 

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When you shoot this shot, are you looking at the 5-ball, the "aim point", the cue ball, or something else during the final stroke?
 
During the final stroke you always focus on the aimpoint. 100% of the time.

You align yourself and cue thru the center of the CB down the aimline to the aimpoint.

That's one of the strengths of the system. It's the exact same reference for every shot, no matter what the shot is. Even on a kick shot, you should be picking an aimpoint out to focus on. This ensures a consistent reference and shot routine.

The aimpoint is the basis of your alignment reference. When you're getting down into position you align your foot (right for right handers), cue, and head position on the aimline and you align to the aimpoint on the way down.

After your in position, when you switch your focus from the aimpoint to look down at the CB, your cue tip should be pointing thru the center of the CB straight down the aimline (center ball hit). If it's not, you need to adjust or reset if it's significantly off.
 
That is a great little invention. You can't use it during a game though. When playing a centerball shot I find it's simple to aim 1/2" past the point of the contact.
 
Mitchxout said:
That is a great little invention. You can't use it during a game though. When playing a centerball shot I find it's simple to aim 1/2" past the point of the contact.
Click to expand...

thanks. I thought about a patent. I've not seen it done before but how easy is this to do on your own? It would be ripped off instantly. It's easier to just release it and let others use it.

It took a few years to figure it out and it's actually not totally simple to make an accurate one but when you see what it is (a piece of plastic with a hole and a dot) it's not rocket science.

I've also printed them on address labels and stick them on the table for a more permanent shot setup. That works pretty well with clear labels.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Do you mean 1 1/8" (where the ghost ball base would be)?

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

No, it's simpler than ghost ball. Everyone knows on a cut shot you shouldn't aim the center of the cue ball directly at the point of contact on the object ball. The hit would be too thick and the result would be an undercut. But if you aim to cut 1/2" more it will compensate for curvature of the balls.

So, if I'm shooting a centerball cut shot, I aim directly at the point of contact, then allow 1/2" more and stroke as straight as possible. This works the same for every shot unless the cut gets close to straight in or is very thin.
 
Mitchxout said:
No, it's simpler than ghost ball. Everyone knows on a cut shot you shouldn't aim the center of the cue ball directly at the point of contact on the object ball. The hit would be too thick and the result would be an undercut. But if you aim to cut 1/2" more it will compensate for curvature of the balls.

So, if I'm shooting a centerball cut shot, I aim directly at the point of contact, then allow 1/2" more and stroke as straight as possible. This works the same for every shot unless the cut gets close to straight in or is very thin.
Click to expand...

Does this really work for you? Geometrically, it should fail on any cut angle very different from 26.4 degrees. With pocket slop, a little more or less than that.

Using a center-ball hit, the correct line of aim for the center of the cue stick varies from straight at the intended contact point (for a straight shot) to 1 1/8" outside the contact point (for a 90-degree cut). It's a continuously changing distance (from 0" to 1 1/8") as the cut angle changes. It sounds like you recognize that your method won't work for fairly straight shots (it would overcut them) and for thin cuts (it would undercut them). But, in fact, it is really accurate for only one cut angle -- 26.4 degrees. (And, as I say, pocket slop would allow you to make shots close to that angle.) If you are having success aiming that way, I've got to think that you are subconsciously compensating somehow for the inaccurate initial aim.
 
AtLarge said:
plfrg -- Aimpoint tools like yours have been around for a long time.

Here's the Sharp Shooter Aiming Sticker from Joe Tucker: http://www.joetucker.net/store/aiming_stickers.htm

And here is the Elephant Ghost Ball Aim Trainer (go down to the bottom of the page): http://www.mcdermottcue.com/elephant_balls.php

But yours is elegantly simple. Congratulations on thinking of it independently.
Click to expand...

Thanks and that's the point. The tool is very simple and the aimpoint is what you need to focus on. I didn't want anything else getting in the way. To be effective, it must be simple and give you the information you need and only that information.

I have a lot of experience with training and to make sure the things you need under pressure transfer from training to competition you need to be very careful about these tools - and the way you use them to ingrain the proper technique. This tool is very simple on purpose.
 
Mitchxout said:
No, it's simpler than ghost ball. Everyone knows on a cut shot you shouldn't aim the center of the cue ball directly at the point of contact on the object ball. The hit would be too thick and the result would be an undercut. But if you aim to cut 1/2" more it will compensate for curvature of the balls.

So, if I'm shooting a centerball cut shot, I aim directly at the point of contact, then allow 1/2" more and stroke as straight as possible. This works the same for every shot unless the cut gets close to straight in or is very thin.
Click to expand...

Do you play pool for money?
 
The point of contact isn't a constant but the 1/2" adjustment is always the same. It's easy find the contact point on the back of the ball. The extra 1/2" ensures you hit it with the proper point on the cue ball.
 
plfrg said:
During the final stroke you always focus on the aimpoint. 100% of the time.

You align yourself and cue thru the center of the CB down the aimline to the aimpoint.

That's one of the strengths of the system. It's the exact same reference for every shot, no matter what the shot is. Even on a kick shot, you should be picking an aimpoint out to focus on. This ensures a consistent reference and shot routine.

The aimpoint is the basis of your alignment reference. When you're getting down into position you align your foot (right for right handers), cue, and head position on the aimline and you align to the aimpoint on the way down.

After your in position, when you switch your focus from the aimpoint to look down at the CB, your cue tip should be pointing thru the center of the CB straight down the aimline (center ball hit). If it's not, you need to adjust or reset if it's significantly off.
Click to expand...

If you know geometry, you might use a bit of outside english to eliminate CIT and achieve the intended cut angle.

Can you post a picture of your invention...I can print it and scale it to 1X1 on my copier.

Thanks.
 
Mitchxout said:
The point of contact isn't a constant but the 1/2" adjustment is always the same. It's easy find the contact point on the back of the ball. The extra 1/2" ensures you hit it with the proper point on the cue ball.
Click to expand...

Did you read post #13 carefully?
 
AtLarge said:
Does this really work for you? Geometrically, it should fail on any cut angle very different from 26.4 degrees. With pocket slop, a little more or less than that.

Using a center-ball hit, the correct line of aim for the center of the cue stick varies from straight at the intended contact point (for a straight shot) to 1 1/8" outside the contact point (for a 90-degree cut). It's a continuously changing distance (from 0" to 1 1/8") as the cut angle changes. It sounds like you recognize that your method won't work for fairly straight shots (it would overcut them) and for thin cuts (it would undercut them). But, in fact, it is really accurate for only one cut angle -- 26.4 degrees. (And, as I say, pocket slop would allow you to make shots close to that angle.) If you are having success aiming that way, I've got to think that you are subconsciously compensating somehow for the inaccurate initial aim.
Click to expand...

What is the significance of 26.4 degrees? I don't think we're on the same page.
 
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