I have been using ball edges for so long now that I can't imagine learning to aim at an imaginary target. This may be great for a beginner trying to learn a GB approach. I could b missing something and it wouldn't b the 1st time
Aimpoint Reference System
- Thread starter plfrg
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the photo is already posted. See post 1, 2, and 3 in this thread.
It's very simple. All you need is a very thin piece of plastic just like the magic rack. You measure out the diameter of a standard ball (2.25"). Put a hole at one end and a dot at the other. I use a thin sheet of plastic from an overhead projector slide. Shows how oldschool I am.
You can print it out as well using MS Word and Avery labels (or an overhead projector sheet). I was surprised to see when I put the dimension of a line using word in inches it actually printed out properly on my cannon printer. Just put an end dot on each end of the line and then keep one dot and punch a hole in the other. if your printer isn't true to the size, just adjust and print until you get it right.
You can shoot the balls directly over the tool just like the magic rack and you will get a virtually uninteruppted shot (it's not perfect but it's close enough).
OK; this may seem a bit long, but I hope it's easy to follow.
Put an OB on the table. Put a second ball in the ghost-ball position, so that a line through the centers of these two balls points directly at your target (e.g., the center of the pocket). The ghost-ball position is where the cue ball needs to wind up to make the shot.
Now put the cue ball on the table back a bit (the distance doesn't matter) from the OB/GB combination. Now move the CB around in an arc to every possible cut-angle position from straight in (0 degrees) to a right-angle cut (90 degrees). All angles are possible, right, from zero to 90.
Now, as you move that CB around to all those possible cut angles, try to observe where the straight line through the center of the CB and the center of the ghost ball (extend that line beyond the center of the ghost ball) passes relative to where the contact point is. There is only one location for the CB on that arc going from zero-degree cuts to 90-degree cuts where that extended line I just described passes exactly one-half inch from the contact point. That location for the CB happens to be where a 26.4-degree cut is needed to pocket the ball.
So the distance you are talking about -- 1/2" -- works for one particular cut angle. It will "sort of" work for cut angles close to that because of pocket slop. But if you want to make shots at other cut angles, the distance you are talking about should be something different from 1/2". For a 40-degree cut, the distance would be just under 3/4". For a 50-degree cut, it would be just under 7/8".
I hope that helps. Maybe if you read this a couple times, then go back and read post #13 again, you'll have it.
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I agree with you. If someone comes to me with an aiming problem I ask them how long they've been shooting, then see how well they make balls. If they make balls pretty well they normally need to focus on refining a shot routine and running balls (not learning a new aiming system).
I used to use contact point aiming. If someone comes to me using that system I do the same check above. If they're already good at it I would lean toward showing them Joe Tucker's method and toward using his tools. I think he has the best contact point method out there. No sense in fixing something that isn't broke.
It took me a year to switch from contact point aiming to an aimpoint. In the end I believe it was worth it but it was painful and error prone during the switch. There are many advantages of aimpoint that I prefer and it fits better with my shot routine.
No, forget the ghost ball, this has nothing to do with ghost ball. Read this carefully. Find the spot, point, back of ball, the place the cue ball needs to hit the object ball to make the pocket. It can be virtually any angle between very thin and very thick.
You cannot aim directly at this point because the balls are round and the hit will be too thick. Not the ghost ball, but the actual contact point of the OB.
The CB has to be aimed thinner to achieve the correct hit. How much thinner? 1/2" thinner measured from the point of contact straight across the face of the ball. No ghost ball.
To be clear, this isn't technically the ghost ball method. I've never been able to see a ghost ball so I don't try. It's an aimpoint method based on ghost ball theory. I pick a spot on the cloth which isn't much different from picking a spot on a ball and call it the aimpoint - it's not an imaginary target. I always focus on a real spot/mark on the table.
I've done this now for years on many different table cloths from brand new to well worn. I don't consider my ability to find the right spot and know it's 'on' any different than any other method (and I've experimented with just about all of them).
"What we have here is a failure to communicate."
How's this? I use the contact point for a baseline. The aimpoint is slightly thinner. The amount thinner is the same for every cut shot. Ghost ball was never mentioned, implied, or used in any way.
I read your words and understand how simple aiming with that 1/2 inch offset from the contact point on the OB is for you, but to me it isn't that simple - geometrically:
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After that photo I think it's time you two get a private room or another thread... you'll confuse anyone else on this thread...
here's another shot showing the aimline from my laser attached to the ceiling. The laser paints a line on the table and floor. I use it to visually show a newer person how to align to the aimpoint and aimline.
The laser paints a line on the floor they can actually step on and shows how the line intersects with the CB and aimpoint.
I'm installing another green line laser to show the target line.
I've found it's easier to show someone actual objects as opposed to imagining where the line is.
The laser paints a line on the floor they can actually step on and shows how the line intersects with the CB and aimpoint.
I'm installing another green line laser to show the target line.
I've found it's easier to show someone actual objects as opposed to imagining where the line is.
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I believe I do understand your method and, whether you believe it or not, my posts #13 and #23 were written to let you understand why it is a gross approximation method -- one not sound for a variety of cut angles if carried out exactly as you prescribe. I was not saying you are using any form of ghost-ball method; I was just using those three balls (CB, OB, GB) to help you visualize relationships.
But, obviously, I have failed to make myself understood to you. I'm not going to try again tonight. Maybe I'll think of another way to explain it later; maybe you'll re-read my posts carefully and they'll eventually make sense.
Mitchxout -- I just read plfrg's post #31. His picture should help you see what I am saying. That laser line (visualize it as half a ball up off the table rather than on the table) through (1) the center of the CB and (2) the point on the table that the center of the CB must pass through to make the shot will be exactly 1/2" from the intended contact point only at one cut angle (and it happens to be about 26 degrees). For all other cut angles, that laser line will be more or less than 1/2" from the intended contact point. So 1/2" does not work for all shots, nor for all shots other than very thick or very thin cuts -- unless you are doing something else (so far unstated) to adjust somehow.
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I have a buddy whom I practice with on a daily basis. He is an extremely strong player and he uses GB. I honestly believe that some players are just better suited to different methods. I swear by my method but I don't push it or try to teach it to anyone. He knows how I aim but not the specifics of it. He did however incorporate coming in from the same side every time to build a solid PSR and Genes method of getting the eyes in the right place. Point being I think there is NO 1 aiming method that fits everyone.i also believe that u have come up with a very simple and practical way to teach a person to "see" the shot. Good work and good luck
Based on my experience, you are absolutely right. We both see and perceive the balls differently, some folks can visualize an imaginary line, others a ghost ball disk, and others look at edges. Whatever works for you....works for you. The key is to develop the consistency using your method of choice, and to keep an open mind to possibilities that can lead to improvements in your game.
I agree with both of you on this and have said pretty close to the same thing previously. As I stated early on the primary reason for the thread was to provide a new tool to those that are looking for a simple aiming training aid. It is especially useful if they are either new to pool or are struggling with aiming.
This system has a lot to offer for someone that was not comfortable with the ghost ball. I liked the principle but could never see it myself. I'm not saying 'don't use ghost ball', just providing an alternative. This tool and method provides a physical point to focus on which I find easier and for me it provides a more accurate and consistent setup and shot routine.
While I do think the aimpoint reference has some advantages over other systems I don't push it unless someone comes to me with no clue on aiming or they are obviously struggling with it.
Here is a suggestion for another version of this concept.
Reference the drawing in my avatar, draw a arc on the same material from the center of the OB contact patch to the aim point. Then cut along that arc.
This is the aiming arc to use when adjustments are needed. On this version a marker would be place on the arc for a center pocket hit. This way you have a visual reference for adjustments. Granted it will not tell you how much is needed, but once you determine what you might need, you will at least have a real world point to using for aiming.
What to remember about adjustments is that distance matters in applying the changes from center pocket. Using the center pocket marker and knowing how distance will affect adjustments, you can pick a spot along the aiming arc and try the shot.
If it doesn't work, you can set up the shot again and use the aim point from the failed shot as reference for your next attempt. Repeat as needed, which is the point of practice.
Reference the drawing in my avatar, draw a arc on the same material from the center of the OB contact patch to the aim point. Then cut along that arc.
This is the aiming arc to use when adjustments are needed. On this version a marker would be place on the arc for a center pocket hit. This way you have a visual reference for adjustments. Granted it will not tell you how much is needed, but once you determine what you might need, you will at least have a real world point to using for aiming.
What to remember about adjustments is that distance matters in applying the changes from center pocket. Using the center pocket marker and knowing how distance will affect adjustments, you can pick a spot along the aiming arc and try the shot.
If it doesn't work, you can set up the shot again and use the aim point from the failed shot as reference for your next attempt. Repeat as needed, which is the point of practice.
Not to beat a dead horse, Mitch, but just to offer a simpler explanation:Ok, back to the drawing board.
One way to know that 1/2" isn't always right is to remember that however you find your aim line it must coincide with the ghost ball's center, which is up to 1 1/8" to the side of the OB contact point.
pj
chgo
I get it all too well. The wider the cut the further away the aiming and contact points are.