It does not have a weight bolt in it
Kelly,
I disagree. Sending you a PM to show my calculations.
Gary
It does not have a weight bolt in it
OOps
I calculated the volumes incorrectly - let me rewind.
Sorry
Gary
Yeah,
Recalculating it correctly it now looks like it would take a 17-1/2" bore using a 3/4" diameter maple dowel. Unless this is a one piece or full-spliced butt, that is mostly likely not do-able nor desirable.
:embarrassed2:
Gary
FWIW A 1/2" dowel would be longer than the butt!![]()
ok thanks for all the impressive calculations. much appreciated.
Ok Dudes and Lady Dudes.. I took the rubber butt cap off which is screwed into an aluminum bolt that is screwed into the inside of the cue. The butt cap, Alan screw, and weighbolt type of bolt weighs in at a fraction over an ounce.
I NEED a rubber bumper on it of some sort because the places i play are not the greatest of flooring. I weighed the (what i presume is) aluminum bolt & it is roughly half an ounce. I weighed the rubber bumper with the allen screw and it is roughly half an ounce(obviously).
Do you guys have any idea how i could replace this system with a "buttcap" or whatever u call the thing with something lighter in weight that i could maybe glue in there or something..? idk
BTW the girth of the rubber looks to be right at 1 inch.
Thanks in advance ppl!!
That information helps.
The cavity the aluminum bolt threads into can be slightly enlarged/deepened. Then, the end of the cavity can be plugged with something much lighter than the aluminum bolt in order to receive a shorter (and hence lighter) retaining screw for the same bumper. This should drop the weight by 3/4 of an ounce. This is pretty easy work with minimal impact to the cue. The balance point will change though.
As I asked before, if the joint pin and joint collar are steel, they can also be changed to reduce weight. If they are both steel, changing those materials will get you the other 3/4 of an ounce and help keep the balance point largely unchanged. Changing the pin and collar (which would likely entail a finish spot repair) should be more expensive than the slight mod to the butt end.
I didn't try to disparage anyone by questioning your figures.
I have tried to lighten a cue by drilling out ebony or purple heart and replacing it with maple. I was amazed on how little change I actually got.
Kim
It would work, it wouldn't weigh much, very inexpensive, not at all invasive.
View attachment 242911
What about changing the joint pin?
I just went through the math for you and here's what I got:
Densities of woods vary alot, but if we use 65lbs/cu.ft for ebony and 44lbs/cu.ft for maple, then one way of looking at it is that you lose 21lbs for every cu.ft of ebony you replace with maple.
For a 1.5oz weight loss:
If you wanted to bore the handle out with a 3/4" drill and fill that hole with a 3/4" maple dowel, the hole would have to be about 4.366in long - call it 4 3/8".
A 1/2" dowel would have to be 9.822" long (about 9 7/8").
Hope this helps,
Gary
The cavity is the size of that bolt and id guess its roughly 7-10 inches deep into the butt (the cavity).
So youre saying I could send this to someone who has a lathe and they could drill it out just a minimal width slightly bigger than the bolt and it would lighten it 3/4 of an ounce.
this sorta scares me because i know the woods and materials can get hot and swell and ughhh not good for the cue..
... On a miscue or hard hit, it is possible that bumper could become dislodged without a retaining screw holding it in. It just depends on how recessed it is and how much of an interference fit there is holding it in.
If the bumper (with no retaining screw) is a bit too loose, it can be tightened up by putting some masking tape or 2-sided tape around the portion inside the butt cap (or by putting the tape inside the butt cap rather than around the bumper). I've done that on cues of my own to eliminate both the weight bolt and the retaining screw but keep the bumper.
Very helpful!!!!!! I would have guessed he had to go longer. Great post! :grin: