Help with new Mid cue smith

Also of note dial test indicators cannot be used for absolute measurements due to their inherent design (angled motion). They are used for comparative measurements. So if the needle says you moved .005" you really didn't move that exact amount. But when using these you are usually comparing one side of a part with another. So if one side measures .005 and the other measures .001 the middle would be .003, yet the middle is not exactly .002 away from the initial measurements.
 
JT's cuerepair said:
I did what was said with the pin in both TS and HS. I was thinking It would be a good idea to buy an indicator, What is the proper name and where can I get one, Also The lathe did come with a video called basic cue building and repairs, Is this the Video that has the info on set up, Thanks
Click to expand...

Jack, you actually want to buy 2. A Finger type and a Plunger type.
- Finger: For truing up center, indicating along length and small height diffs.
- Plunger: to attach to lathe to see how far the carriage moves when drilling, turning, etc. Poor man's DRO

I really like the B&S Bestest. Never cared for the Starrett Last Word indicators. Mitutoyo is really nice but generally more expensive.

Here is the finger type B&S I have. Watch the one you buy. You really only need it to read in 1/2 thousandths (.0005). Its nice to have another one that reads in ten thous (.0001) or 50 millionths (.00005) but they don't have much travel (maybe .008) and you really don't need that much accuracy.... way overkill for what you will use it for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BROWN-SHARP...354?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6dcaffea

Plunger type. Get one that has 2 Inches of travel. Not sure of a good recc. on this one. I've owned of these Teclocks for years and it served me well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-TECLOC...681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19da9c8af9

Oh, when you buy one try get pick one that has as many attachments/holders are you can. I have a couple dozen and still run into situations where I want a different style holder. On the Plunger type you can buy a kit that has different contact points, these are cheap and do come in handy occasionally. Lastly, the magnetic holders won't do you much good, the Hightower lathes are pretty much all aluminum so they won't stick :)
 
Thanks so much.....



bruppert said:
Jack, you actually want to buy 2. A Finger type and a Plunger type.
- Finger: For truing up center, indicating along length and small height diffs.
- Plunger: to attach to lathe to see how far the carriage moves when drilling, turning, etc. Poor man's DRO

I really like the B&S Bestest. Never cared for the Starrett Last Word indicators. Mitutoyo is really nice but generally more expensive.

Here is the finger type B&S I have. Watch the one you buy. You really only need it to read in 1/2 thousandths (.0005). Its nice to have another one that reads in ten thous (.0001) or 50 millionths (.00005) but they don't have much travel (maybe .008) and you really don't need that much accuracy.... way overkill for what you will use it for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BROWN-SHARP...354?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6dcaffea

Plunger type. Get one that has 2 Inches of travel. Not sure of a good recc. on this one. I've owned of these Teclocks for years and it served me well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-TECLOC...681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19da9c8af9

Oh, when you buy one try get pick one that has as many attachments/holders are you can. I have a couple dozen and still run into situations where I want a different style holder. On the Plunger type you can buy a kit that has different contact points, these are cheap and do come in handy occasionally. Lastly, the magnetic holders won't do you much good, the Hightower lathes are pretty much all aluminum so they won't stick :)
Click to expand...
 
The easiest way I have found to line one up dead on with just a normal tool post mounted dial indicator is to buy two 1/2" dowel pins. Put one in the headstock and one in the tailstock. Move the dial indicator along both until they read the same. If the headstock one has a couple of thousandths run out set it to the middle of the run out and line the tailstock up to that reading. One dial indicator in headstock chuck that rotates around the dowel pin in the tailstock is a little easier, but not everyone has one of those indicators in their shop.
 
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