Cue Balance Point

[pogmothoin]

Let me frame he question a bit. I am not a professional player, not even a top amateur player, I just enjoy playing the game.

A few years ago I intended to get a custom cue made as a retirement present to myself. So I called the Tascarella's and we began to speak about the type of cue I would like. He asked several questions about how I would like the cue constructed, balance point being one of them and I forget the others to be honest. Long story short I never had the cue made, I figured if I didn't know why he needed to know those answers I probably didn't need to buy one of his cues. But I always wondered the importance of the questions he asked.

Can anybody tell me the importance of the balance point on a cue?

I'm not talking about cheaply made cues but on well made custom cues. I see different balance points and wonder what, if a cue is well made overall, difference is makes to individuals players.

In the grand scheme of things what role does the balance point play in how a cue hits.

What are some of the other important metrics that a cue maker needs to know to make a custom cue for an individual?

Just looking to educate myself a little bit. Thanks for any input.

 

[MitchAlsup]

I happen to be one of the few who likes the nose of the cue to be light--thus I dislike metal joinery which, to me, makes the cue nose (tip) heavy.

The ballance point determines where you hold the cue, how lightly you hold the cue and how much you like the shaft to press on your bridge fingers. I like the cue to glide through my bridge fingers wihtout out much gravitational attraction to make it prefer the top of the supporting finger.

I like wood to wood joints, light shafts, and light ferrules. I also like cues just under 18 oz.

 

[icem3n]

Can anybody tell me the importance of the balance point on a cue?

I'm not talking about cheaply made cues but on well made custom cues.
I see different balance points and wonder what, if a cue is well
made overall, difference is makes to individuals players.

In the grand scheme of things what role does the balance point play in how a cue hits.

It depends on how tall you are and also you grip technique that you used.
The norm for a 58" cue is about 18.5" to 19.3" est from the bumper.

If you got a lot of grip action you can use a more rear balance cue.
If you got a more looser grip, a more forward balance should be better
imo e.g. closer to 19" from the bumper. This will help reduce the front
section of the cue from floating. You can also cheat by having a heavier shaft.

You also need the some weight in the rear to help you stroke true.
Good balance cue will help you shoot straighter.

What are some of the other important metrics that a cue maker needs to know to make a custom cue for an individual?
Just looking to educate myself a little bit. Thanks for any input.

This are the basic details required:
1. Shaft size.
2. Shaft weight.
3. Type of shaft taper.
4. Butt weight.
5. Butt size.
6. Ferrule material.
7. Joint material.
8. Joint Pin.

 

[Island Drive]

Simply put, the more forward weight the easier it is to follow but the more difficult to draw delicate shots. More rearward weight, becomes more difficult to follow, easier to draw. Somwhere in between must be reaized by excessive play, but you must start Somewhere so pick one.

 

[pogmothoin]

Thanks

Thanks to you all for the feedback. I guessing I would just need to try different cues to get a better idea of what works for me.

I currently play with an old Palmer that I've had for about 30 years, the balance point is roughly 17", about an inch above the wrap on my cue.

 

[arps]

i use open bridge more often than a closed bridge, and my stroke is very loose; so i prefer a more forward weight on my cue.

 

[allanpsand]

I like my cue's balance point to be just a few (4-5) inches in front of my stick hand (in a normal stance).

 

[Island Drive]

Thanks to you all for the feedback. I guessing I would just need to try different cues to get a better idea of what works for me.

I currently play with an old Palmer that I've had for about 30 years, the balance point is roughly 17", about an inch above the wrap on my cue.

A good example of the proper tool for the game during its heyday is 14.1. I grew up with nap cloth, slow, and when wet and dirty moving balls around became more difficult....Duh. Anywho, if you've ever hit a good forward weighted Ebony butt, stainless joint with stainless rings Balabuska, you'll better understand how good this cue was for rolling and churning a 12 o'clock high cue ball well after the first carom. This design is Not as good for the rotation games as many prefer something lighter than 20oz. To get a Balabuska as I described, it's highly unlikely you'll find one under 20oz, unless you removed the bumper/bolt.