Gambling Terms/Spots "for dummies" guide?

SpeedyPete84

SpeedyPete84

9 Ball Choke Artist
Silver Member
Hey all,

Apologies if this is in the wrong place.

I'm a low to mid level B player -- last time I played APA I was a 6. I'm starting to do some gambling at my local poolroom but I really don't understand some of the terms. I've heard terms like "wild 7" and such that I don't get. I'm hoping someone will be kind enough to explain some of the common terms and spots to me so I don't make an ass out of myself.

I've been playing some upper B to A- players for cheap (anywhere from $5-20 a set, just to keep things interesting) and I'm wondering if you guys think a 1 ball spot would be out of line or a fair bet against say an B+/A- player, just based on the limited info I can give. Is there some standard way of figuring out what a good spot guideline would be, or is it all subjective based on the two guys shooting?

Don't know if it matters, but we're shooting all money games on a GC 3 or 4 (not sure which) with about 4.25" pockets, deep shelf.

Thanks in advance for the help (and go easy on me)!

Pete
 
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Wild 7 means you have 2 money balls. The 9 and the 7
The last 2 means if you make one of the last 2 balls on the table you win
And it goes on just like that
 
I guess I should mention that if someone says.....
You got the call 7 it means its a hot ball but you have to call it
When someone says you got the wild 7 then you don't have to call it
Most of the time they will say... Call 7 if that is the spot
 
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Take a look here :- http://www.sfbilliards.com/jargon.html

If you are gambling on 9 ball or 10 ball, personally I will take "game spot" as compared to balls spotted. IMO a fair game b/w an A player vs B player will be something like 3 on the wire, racing to 7. That means B player needs to win 4 games before A player wins 7. After this if A player keep loosing 3 or more sets then the spot can be adjusted to 2 to 7, (B has to win 5, and A has to win 7 games).
 
peteypooldude said:
Wild 7 means you have 2 money balls. The 9 and the 7
Click to expand...

I don't know much about gambling terminology either; mostly just what I've picked up on AZB.

From a previous thread I got the impression that "Wild 7" (or "Wild 8") meant that the player could pocket the 7-ball at any time in the game. The advantage being that you don't have to play the 7-ball in rotation. If you got hooked on the 4, you could play the 7 instead. You'd still need to go back to the 4-5-6...., but the 7 was like a "lifeline" or a wild card.

Does such weight exist? If so, what is its name?
 
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bdorman said:
I don't know much about gambling terminology either; mostly just what I've picked up on AZB.

From a previous thread I got the impression that "Wild 7" (or "Wild 8") meant that the player could pocket the 7-ball at any time in the game. The advantage being that you don't have to play the 7-ball in rotation. If you got hooked on the 4, you could play the 7 instead. You'd still need to go back to the 4-5-6...., but the 7 was like a "lifeline."

Does such weight exist? If so, what is its name?
Click to expand...

Yes, you can play the 7 at any time and win the game, but I thought it has to be a "legal " shot. So, if you are hooked on the 4 you can make 7 to win the game but you'll have to hit the 4 ball first.
 
bdorman said:
[...]

From a previous thread I got the impression that "Wild 7" (or "Wild 8") meant that the player could pocket the 7-ball at any time in the game. The advantage being that you don't have to play the 7-ball in rotation. If you got hooked on the 4, you could play the 7 instead. You'd still need to go back to the 4-5-6...., but the 7 was like a "lifeline."
Click to expand...

This is not correct. If you're hooked on the 4, you still need to hit the 4.

WILD 7 means the 7-ball is just like the 9-ball to you. If you make it on a legal shot you win.

This is to be distinguished from the CALL 7, in which you win by making the 7 provided you call the shot, i.e., you can't win by slopping it in.
 
prad said:
Take a look here :- http://www.sfbilliards.com/jargon.html

If you are gambling on 9 ball or 10 ball, personally I will take "game spot" as compared to balls spotted. IMO a fair game b/w an A player vs B player will be something like 3 on the wire, racing to 7. That means B player needs to win 4 games before A player wins 7. After this if A player keep loosing 3 or more sets then the spot can be adjusted to 2 to 7, (B has to win 5, and A has to win 7 games).
Click to expand...

I must have read about half his post :eek:
I don't know where my heads at
 
SpeedyPete84 said:
Hey all,

Apologies if this is in the wrong place.

I'm a low to mid level B player -- last time I played APA I was a 6. I'm starting to do some gambling at my local poolroom but I really don't understand some of the terms. I've heard terms like "wild 7" and such that I don't get. I'm hoping someone will be kind enough to explain some of the common terms and spots to me so I don't make an ass out of myself.

I've been playing some upper B to A- players for cheap (anywhere from $5-20 a set, just to keep things interesting) and I'm wondering if you guys think a 1 ball spot would be out of line or a fair bet against say an B+/A- player, just based on the limited info I can give. Is there some standard way of figuring out what a good spot guideline would be, or is it all subjective based on the two guys shooting?

Don't know if it matters, but we're shooting all money games on a GC 3 or 4 (not sure which) with about 4.25" pockets, deep shelf.

Thanks in advance for the help (and go easy on me)!

Pete
Click to expand...

Sounds like a 60/40 bet. 60% chance to be left with 40% of your money. If you're getting in the mix with players that are offering you a spot, they're most likely offering up the spot knowing that you need a little more.

A 6? Hmm.. I'd say C+/B-. Against a B+/A-, you should probably be getting the 7 and 8, at least one of them wild, or the breaks with at least a wild ball.

You'll probably end up paying out a little to see what kind of difference the spots make. Also, make sure they don't get placed on the sides of the rack(the "wing balls"), because then your money ball goes bye-bye real quick, unless you're breaking and then it's all good(except if they're "called" balls).

Tons of other players on here have much more experience gambling, so you should probably listen to them and not me. :thumbup:
 
You're not a mid level B player and an APA 6, you're confused about the B speed or the 6 is wrong.

A is pro speed B is shortstop C is most common pool player who gambles speed


SpeedyPete84 said:
Hey all,

Apologies if this is in the wrong place.

I'm a low to mid level B player -- last time I played APA I was a 6. I'm starting to do some gambling at my local poolroom but I really don't understand some of the terms. I've heard terms like "wild 7" and such that I don't get. I'm hoping someone will be kind enough to explain some of the common terms and spots to me so I don't make an ass out of myself.

I've been playing some upper B to A- players for cheap (anywhere from $5-20 a set, just to keep things interesting) and I'm wondering if you guys think a 1 ball spot would be out of line or a fair bet against say an B+/A- player, just based on the limited info I can give. Is there some standard way of figuring out what a good spot guideline would be, or is it all subjective based on the two guys shooting?

Don't know if it matters, but we're shooting all money games on a GC 3 or 4 (not sure which) with about 4.25" pockets, deep shelf.

Thanks in advance for the help (and go easy on me)!

Pete
Click to expand...
 
tommyceilings said:
You're not a mid level B player and an APA 6, you're confused about the B speed or the 6 is wrong.

A is pro speed B is shortstop C is most common pool player who gambles speed
Click to expand...
You're probably right about that. I really wouldn't know either way. I'm strictly going off of what I'm being told by other players who do have established rankings in tournaments here. I don't know how much stock I put in letter ratings, but it's well within the realm of possibility that mine has not been determined correctly.
 
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tommyceilings said:
You're not a mid level B player and an APA 6, you're confused about the B speed or the 6 is wrong.

A is pro speed B is shortstop C is most common pool player who gambles speed
Click to expand...

Your idea of A, B, & C players is far off. I think there is a language barrier we need to crawl over.

I've heard of AA players being short stops.
 
Banks said:
Sounds like a 60/40 bet. 60% chance to be left with 40% of your money. If you're getting in the mix with players that are offering you a spot, they're most likely offering up the spot knowing that you need a little more.

A 6? Hmm.. I'd say C+/B-. Against a B+/A-, you should probably be getting the 7 and 8, at least one of them wild, or the breaks with at least a wild ball.

You'll probably end up paying out a little to see what kind of difference the spots make. Also, make sure they don't get placed on the sides of the rack(the "wing balls"), because then your money ball goes bye-bye real quick, unless you're breaking and then it's all good(except if they're "called" balls).

Tons of other players on here have much more experience gambling, so you should probably listen to them and not me. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I'd say you're probably right on the money by saying C+/B-. I really don't know. I can tell you that I play in the B level tournaments around here and about every other week I get into the money (and this little tourney pays top 4). If it's a pretty routine out, I'll generally get out. If there are a bunch of clusters to break up, I probably successfully get the breakout and continue running balls about 50% of the time. The rest of the time, I have to play a safe.

I'm not gambling to win a bunch of money, really. I have a decent job and I don't need to win money to cover the bills, etc. Of course I want to win, but it's mainly because I want to challenge myself against better opponents. If I lose, then maybe the experience is worth the cash.

Against two different B-/B level players here locally, we're going back and forth -- to the tune of 5/3 in a race to 5. Nobody is running away with the set either way and it seems we trade off who wins on which day.
 
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prad said:
In danny's book (http://www.amazon.com/Running-Table-Delicious-American-Hustler/dp/B001TODOEU) orange crush is defined as "giving up all the breaks, and 5 ball out" (meaning if your opponent makes 5,6,7,8 or 9 he / she wins).

It's a very big spot if played according to above mentioned rule, only pro's can give that and still win.
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From a consensus on here, very few play it that way. To most, the orange crush is the 5 ball (orange) and the breaks (crush). The 5 ball being wild with that term. (wild meaning don't have to call the pocket, can slop it in on a legal hit)
 
prad said:
In danny's book (http://www.amazon.com/Running-Table-Delicious-American-Hustler/dp/B001TODOEU) orange crush is defined as "giving up all the breaks, and 5 ball out" (meaning if your opponent makes 5,6,7,8 or 9 he / she wins).

It's a very big spot if played according to above mentioned rule, only pro's can give that and still win.
Click to expand...
Wow. That IS a huge spot. haha. I can see why only pros would give that -- and I can't imagine they're throwing that kind of weight to very many people.
 
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