New playing cue: question

driz86

driz86

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I recently picked up a steve klein custom. I'm quite happy with the purchase as it's certainly a step up from what I was using before. I won't go into trying to describe the hit or anything but I notice it provides unusually good feedback and certainly deflects much less than my other cue despite it being a standard maple shaft (not complaining). One thing I noticed distinctly was that it seems to draw the ball easier though definitely doesn't perform as easily with the force follow. I may have inadvertently answered my own question, but what concepts are at work here? why is this the case? I'm curious.
 
I'm surprised no one else has chimed in on this. Aren't there nerds on this forum who like to argue about this stuff ad nauseum?
 
If you were to move the back of the cue a quarter of an inch side to side, you just reduced the error by half.
 
Provide more information about your new and old cues and you might get a better answer.

tip
ferrule
shaft taper & diameter
weight
balance point
joint
 
alstl said:
Provide more information about your new and old cues and you might get a better answer.

tip
ferrule
shaft taper & diameter
weight
balance point
joint
Click to expand...

old cue:
tip: elk master
ferrule- plastic
pro taper 12.75mm
weight 18.5 oz
balance point 16 in
wood to wood plastic joint w 5/16-18

New cue (klein)
tip: triangle
ferrule: idk, whatever's standard on s. kleins
straight taper 12.75 mm
weight 19.5
balance point 19 in
wood to wood plastic joint with 3/8-11 pin
 
I too have a new Klein and have noticed the same thing. It draws fairly well but does not follow quite as well as my old cue. I usually shoot with a Gilbert with close to the same weight, dimensions and feedback. I have concluded a few things:

First, I am used to my Gilbert just from use. Second is the tips. I went through numerous tips on the Gilbert to find a combination that worked for me. I have yet to do so on the Klein. The quality and workmanship on both cues are top notch so I have no doubt that perfect combo is out there.
 
For whatever reason, youre hitting slightly lower on the cb. Take a striped ball, turn it so the stripes are horizontal, chalk up your tip and hit a few straight in shots with noth cues. Check the chalk marks to compare. Whether it is the balance, weight difference or whatever, youre doing something different. It isnt the cue.
 
Just a guess but the forward balance may be causing the tip to drop ever so slightly on your follow through, and the lower hit is giving you more draw and at the same time less follow.
 
nobcitypool said:
For whatever reason, youre hitting slightly lower on the cb. Take a striped ball, turn it so the stripes are horizontal, chalk up your tip and hit a few straight in shots with noth cues. Check the chalk marks to compare. Whether it is the balance, weight difference or whatever, youre doing something different. It isnt the cue.
Click to expand...

the cb does react as if it were struck lower, just doesnt feel that way in my arm. maybe it does have something to do with the forward balance. not sure. will try that out
 
So I went to the pool hall yesterday to play some more with it. Realized that the thing deflects much less than my previous cue. I've tried out Ld shafts before for a couple minutes and this is quite similar. Had a hard time making a lot of stuff I don't even need to think about with my other (maple shaft as well) cue. Anyone on here that owns a Klein experience the same? I know its a high end cue but that other thing I was using was like $50 and I would hardly miss a ball some days.
 
Some if this is probably in your head.
The biggest change I see is the taper.
A pro taper feels much different than a straight (European) taper.
Do a search on forum and see the difference.
"Usually" a pro taper will not deflect a much as a Euro taper.
As a comparrsion I have a Lucassi that has a pro taper and plays horrible. Just too much weight at the end mass. I alos have a Schon shaft that has a Euro taper and is much stiffer and it is much easier to move the ball around. Why? quality of wood, ferrule material and tip.

Euro tapers have a greater amount of feel and require less effort to draw and follow. They just are and should be much stiffer than a pro taper.
That is where this is confusion as you say it is easy to draw but harder to follow. I/we can only guess this is just in your stroke?

Regradless, it sounds like you got a nice piece of wood there and should play with it for a while and see what i really can and can not do for you.

Happy shooting :D
 
Sounds like the balance difference is what's affecting your follow and draw (maybe the weight difference, too). Give it a week or two and you'll not notice any difference. I've changed cues over the years and always noticed a difference in the action I put on the CB...deflection and taper usually affect my english, and balance affects either draw or follow. It'll pass, trust me! :wink:
 
So it turned out that the balance point thing was affecting where the tip was as I came through the cb. Definitely a little lower than usual. Not an issue now that I'm aware of it. Now I just need to get used to this lower deflection thing. It's waay different. On a positive note, I have a feeling the thing will play very consistently once I get used to it.

pic of cue:
 

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driz86 said:
I recently picked up a steve klein custom. I'm quite happy with the purchase as it's certainly a step up from what I was using before. I won't go into trying to describe the hit or anything but I notice it provides unusually good feedback and certainly deflects much less than my other cue despite it being a standard maple shaft (not complaining). One thing I noticed distinctly was that it seems to draw the ball easier though definitely doesn't perform as easily with the force follow. I may have inadvertently answered my own question, but what concepts are at work here? why is this the case? I'm curious.
Click to expand...

Lots of time when we draw the CB, the shaft is elevated so you tend to lightly pin the CB to the cloth creating more friction which usually generate high spin, the more you elevate the more spin (everything else is equal) just as in the trick shot with 4 balls in front of the CB so rotational speed is high compared to rolling speed just after impact. Top english on the other hand the shaft is level most of the time especially very high top, and CB will have less friction on table, so rolling speed is higher than rotational speed; therefore, to compensate you have to put extreme high top or both high top and slightly elevate. The assumption here is your stroke is near perfect and your tip contact point with CB is accurate for draw and top. If you are not sure check chalk marks on CB for every shot, put small pencil mark on CB to know its top from bottom & LH and RH sides

From experience, i recently got the OB2 11.75 mm shaft, at first i did not feel it draws back or follows as good as other cues i have, a friend of mine at pool hall who i know have great power stroke (Matt you know who i am talking about, his name starts with T) asked me to shoot with it few shots; he did magic with it both top and bottom (luckily it did not break); Now i feel it does the job better than any other cue i had ( i fixed my stroke)
 
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nobcitypool said:
For whatever reason, youre hitting slightly lower on the cb. Take a striped ball, turn it so the stripes are horizontal, chalk up your tip and hit a few straight in shots with noth cues. Check the chalk marks to compare. Whether it is the balance, weight difference or whatever, youre doing something different. It isnt the cue.
Click to expand...

......agree
 
bbb said:
......agree
Click to expand...

Or as i suggested earlier, let other player(s) that have good stroke shoot few shots, and watch it spin the hill out of the CB.. Your job then is to copy them and hope you will get there.
 
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