Whats the difference between Qglide and Qslick?
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Get yourself some Linseed or Tung oil and a stick of bees wax. There are many many many wood preservatives out there, but we are talking about a piece of wood that lives a charmed life of protected use. Read up on the protection of wood and experiment for yourself as well. Tung oil is good to go for me.
I couldn't really find that out either. Q Glide comes in a really tiny dropper bottle, Q Slick comes in a larger bottle and is advertised as a sealer. I think the order of intended use is Q Clean, Q Slick, then Q Glide.
I had a shaft that I had once wiped down with a damp cloth to clean some chalk dust off of it and ever since then it felt like it had the grain raised up a little and burnishing with a piece of leather just wasn't helping. I took a few light passes with a Q-wiz and then a light application of Q Slick, polished it off with a cotton rag and then burnished with leather....that stuff works! Shaft had a great smooth feel afterwards, I was really impressed. So, I can recommend Q Slick but I still don't know about Q Glide.
I had a shaft that I had once wiped down with a damp cloth to clean some chalk dust off of it and ever since then it felt like it had the grain raised up a little and burnishing with a piece of leather just wasn't helping. I took a few light passes with a Q-wiz and then a light application of Q Slick, polished it off with a cotton rag and then burnished with leather....that stuff works! Shaft had a great smooth feel afterwards, I was really impressed. So, I can recommend Q Slick but I still don't know about Q Glide.
Some of the Shaft Slickers are nothing more than a re packaged ladies hair care product.
The ones that come in the little dropper bottles, have a sniff. they smell pretty don't they.
Hair care products for the Frizzies. If it contains Dimethicol (sp), then you can use it.
I bought a large bottle of Pantene for $9. Same deal.
I use it to slick up a Cue Tec shaft when I get one in for a tip. Q Slick isn't going to last you a long time. If you're shaft gets sticky while playing, you can give it a wipe with a damp cloth and apply a little of this magic elixir. It will last you for the night but not much longer.
I know that isn't 100% the question that you asked. Just thought I would let you know in case you're planning on purchasing an over priced dropper bottle with 30 drops in it for 6 bucks.
There are a couple of others. White cleaning creme with pumice in it. Its no different than using Vim on your shaft. Buy a large bottle of Vim at the Dollar Store or a small bottle of creme cleaner from the billiard shop. Vim, BTW, doesn't contain any grit or Pumice.
Vim is mild. If it won't hurt the finihs on your bath room sink, I doubt that it will damage your shaft when cleaning.
Like, we often use full strength ammonia on shafts when cleaning the blue off. I have been known to use Acetone on the really dirty ones.
Just don't use Acetone on laminated shafts. That stuff with melt CA glue, which is the main reason theat I keep a bottle in the shop.
For when I glue my sometimes clumsy fingers together.
But, you want to get all the blue out of a shaft and leave it a pretty white like it was when it was new. Use ammonia with Magic Eraser or Acetone.
A couple of coats of sealer and a couple of wax and burnish. Last ya for a month or more if you take care of your shafts.
The ones that come in the little dropper bottles, have a sniff. they smell pretty don't they.
Hair care products for the Frizzies. If it contains Dimethicol (sp), then you can use it.
I bought a large bottle of Pantene for $9. Same deal.
I use it to slick up a Cue Tec shaft when I get one in for a tip. Q Slick isn't going to last you a long time. If you're shaft gets sticky while playing, you can give it a wipe with a damp cloth and apply a little of this magic elixir. It will last you for the night but not much longer.
I know that isn't 100% the question that you asked. Just thought I would let you know in case you're planning on purchasing an over priced dropper bottle with 30 drops in it for 6 bucks.
There are a couple of others. White cleaning creme with pumice in it. Its no different than using Vim on your shaft. Buy a large bottle of Vim at the Dollar Store or a small bottle of creme cleaner from the billiard shop. Vim, BTW, doesn't contain any grit or Pumice.
Vim is mild. If it won't hurt the finihs on your bath room sink, I doubt that it will damage your shaft when cleaning.
Like, we often use full strength ammonia on shafts when cleaning the blue off. I have been known to use Acetone on the really dirty ones.
Just don't use Acetone on laminated shafts. That stuff with melt CA glue, which is the main reason theat I keep a bottle in the shop.
For when I glue my sometimes clumsy fingers together.
But, you want to get all the blue out of a shaft and leave it a pretty white like it was when it was new. Use ammonia with Magic Eraser or Acetone.
A couple of coats of sealer and a couple of wax and burnish. Last ya for a month or more if you take care of your shafts.
Last edited:
cluelesscuer
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Bio Silk is another that will do the trick just fine.
They don't use beeswax or candle wax (paraffin) on cars, they use hard carnuba wax. Beeswax is very sticky. I put it on my Irish linen wrap to make it less slick. AFAIK cue wax is like paste wax for cars and contains carnuba wax in an emulsion.
I burnish my shaft with a piece of brown paper that I rub woodturner's pure stick carnuba wax onto, then rub the shaft with it until it feels warm. After that I use the unwaxed side of the paper to burnish. The net result is a microscopic layer of pure carnuba that lasts for a very long time, making it feel slicker than black ice and keeping the chalk blues at bay.
Great info, thanks sloppy.
From what I understand the use of conditioners can over soften the wood. Kinda makes sense - though I'm sure you guys have used it long enough to know that wouldn't be a problem.
Like I mentioned, in my opinion, slickers like these are for a Quick Fix at the hall and not a substitution for regular shaft maintenance.
Roger that Blue, thanks for the input.