Just what is it that makes an LD shaft LD?Laminated? Narrow tip? Hollow front? Short or no ferrule? The little sticker that says Predator, OB, or Jacoby Edge Hybrid? Or is it all mental?
LD Question
- Thread starter Celophanewrap
- Start date
I think its a lil of everything u said besides the sticker lol but there is deff a diffrance my game has got nothing but better since I got my OB classic hope this helps :thumbup:
Lower end mass. Different makers do it different ways.
LD shafts most definitely squirt the cb less. That's their reason for existence. Does that mean you need an ld shaft to play well? No of course not. People pocketed just fine for centuries without them . If you like aiming shots with side spin and making less of a mental adjustment they are great. When I first tried them I couldn't stand them. Couldn't pocket a shot with side because I was used to making bigger adjustments. But after trying them several times and sticking with them for a while I like not having to adjust as much. The only way you'll know if you truly like them is to play with one for a month or two.
And this is coming from someone who used to use 13-13.25 schon shafts with hard tips.
Chuck
Sent from my iPhone
Any spelling errors I'm blaming on autocorrect
LD shafts most definitely squirt the cb less. That's their reason for existence. Does that mean you need an ld shaft to play well? No of course not. People pocketed just fine for centuries without them . If you like aiming shots with side spin and making less of a mental adjustment they are great. When I first tried them I couldn't stand them. Couldn't pocket a shot with side because I was used to making bigger adjustments. But after trying them several times and sticking with them for a while I like not having to adjust as much. The only way you'll know if you truly like them is to play with one for a month or two.
And this is coming from someone who used to use 13-13.25 schon shafts with hard tips.
Chuck
Sent from my iPhone
Any spelling errors I'm blaming on autocorrect
CoreyD
Baller, Shot Caller
Most LD shafts are made of pie-shaped pieces of wood put together to make the shaft
Here is a picture of Pechauer's LD shaft:
https://pechauer.com/image/cache/data/product/large/performance-plus-1010x168.png
Here is a picture of Pechauer's LD shaft:
https://pechauer.com/image/cache/data/product/large/performance-plus-1010x168.png
Ive actually been playing with a Predator for several years now. I love it, I think I understand what it's supposed to do, but I don't get why. Predator, Jacoby, OB, McDermott's I series, they're all made different, but why are they supposed to do what they're supposed to do. And recently I've been looking at an old McDaniels shaft that is ferrule-less, it is also called LD.
I've just never understood what is the science behind the term LD.
Help a brother out.
I've just never understood what is the science behind the term LD.
Help a brother out.
Any tech that reduces deflection.
Smaller tip helps, small ferrule helps, hollow tip end helps, hollow shaft end helps.
Multi-piece shafts are not low deflection, they are just made that way to have them have the same flex no matter what way you orient them.
It's not mental, there is a clear difference in shafts.
Anything that reduces the mass in effect during the tip/cueball contact time will reduce squirt. Less shaft (the hole, smaller shaft diameter, etc.) and less/lighter ferrule are the predominant ways to reduce the "mass in effect" during "transverse wave propagation" during tip/cueball contact.
There are a few other ways that cuebuilders have executed (shaft/ferrule de-coupling) that work toward reducing the "mass in effect," but the hole and the less/lighter ferrule have proven to be the best solutions thus far.
Laminating the shaft doesn't do anything for lowering squirt (of any significance).
Freddie
Lower end mass. Different makers do it different ways.
LD shafts most definitely squirt the cb less. That's their reason for existence. Does that mean you need an ld shaft to play well? No of course not. People pocketed just fine for centuries without them . If you like aiming shots with side spin and making less of a mental adjustment they are great. When I first tried them I couldn't stand them. Couldn't pocket a shot with side because I was used to making bigger adjustments. But after trying them several times and sticking with them for a while I like not having to adjust as much. The only way you'll know if you truly like them is to play with one for a month or two.
And this is coming from someone who used to use 13-13.25 schon shafts with hard tips.
Chuck
Sent from my iPhone
Any spelling errors I'm blaming on autocorrect
Best description I've seen here! Shafts do not need to be laminated in order to be LD. A lot of cue makers are coming to this conclusion.
The lower the end mass of the shaft at the last 6-9", the more the shaft will deflect away from the cb. That means that the cb will deflect or squirt less. The more end mass at the end of shaft, such as a metal ferrule, and a stiff shaft, then the cue will deflect less, and the cb will deflect/squirt more.
If you were to use a metal rod as a shaft, it would be impossible to hit the ob at the other end of the table while aiming at it. The cb squirt would be enormous.
Most LD shafts are hollowed out and then filled with a foam to lessen the end mass at the last 6-9".
If you were to use a metal rod as a shaft, it would be impossible to hit the ob at the other end of the table while aiming at it. The cb squirt would be enormous.
Most LD shafts are hollowed out and then filled with a foam to lessen the end mass at the last 6-9".
The concept of "avoiding deflection" is one that I find rather funny, and at one point, I bought into all the hype also... But
Yes there is a BUT
no shaft, ON EARTH, regardless of who makes it, or what fantastical mysterious material it is made of will guarantee 100% knowledge of how the cueball will react on any given shot... simply not possible.
The ONLY way to get CLOSE to that 100% confidence in KNOWING how the cueball is going to react when struck of center... is to do it, OVER AND OVER AND OVER
To prove this point, I had a cuemaker put on a 1" brass ferrule on one of my spare shafts... and let me tell you what a 13.2mm BRASS ferrule is freaking HEAVY!!!!
And I played with it, ALOT, for about a week... and guess what, I could run racks with it... with HUGE amounts of deflection... HUGE amounts, like a full ball and a half difference across the length of a table.
And I would challenge people to make a half ball hit cut shot, with inside spin to go 2 rails and get back up table... most everyone who tried, missed the object ball by ATLEAST a full inch.
What does this prove... NOTHING
Other than... buy a cue, and PLAY WITH IT!!!
after 8-10 hours a consistant play (assuming an average speed player), your game will adapt to your shaft and it won't matter AT ALL how much deflection your cue has... as long as you stick with your gear... you will get better, PERIOD
STOP BUYING SHAFTS, and HIT MORE BALLS!!!
Yes there is a BUT
no shaft, ON EARTH, regardless of who makes it, or what fantastical mysterious material it is made of will guarantee 100% knowledge of how the cueball will react on any given shot... simply not possible.
The ONLY way to get CLOSE to that 100% confidence in KNOWING how the cueball is going to react when struck of center... is to do it, OVER AND OVER AND OVER
To prove this point, I had a cuemaker put on a 1" brass ferrule on one of my spare shafts... and let me tell you what a 13.2mm BRASS ferrule is freaking HEAVY!!!!
And I played with it, ALOT, for about a week... and guess what, I could run racks with it... with HUGE amounts of deflection... HUGE amounts, like a full ball and a half difference across the length of a table.
And I would challenge people to make a half ball hit cut shot, with inside spin to go 2 rails and get back up table... most everyone who tried, missed the object ball by ATLEAST a full inch.
What does this prove... NOTHING
Other than... buy a cue, and PLAY WITH IT!!!
after 8-10 hours a consistant play (assuming an average speed player), your game will adapt to your shaft and it won't matter AT ALL how much deflection your cue has... as long as you stick with your gear... you will get better, PERIOD
STOP BUYING SHAFTS, and HIT MORE BALLS!!!
