Want my table to play better (DFW)

J

jtaylor996

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've got one of these:
http://www.legacybilliards.com/pool-tables/7-ft-pool-tables/rylee.html
(Or close enough to that one)

No cash for a diamond, and no room for a gold crown at the time, so I got something to keep me playing, which it has (can't play out much from developing an allergy to second hand smoke).

But, after 6 years it's time for new cloth, and I'd like the rails to play better than they do. Banks suck, and pockets reject what they shouldn't, but still play too big.

Is it possible to make this thing play like a diamond with competent rail work, or are my expectations just too high?

What would it cost to do that work?
 
Cobra is coming

Glen, "Real King Cobra," has stated that he'll be in Texas in the coming months. I'd ask him what he'd recommend, but he charges about $1500 for diamondizing and he'd probably tell you that you may not be able to sell your table for that amount (since it's a furniture table) if and when you try to sell it. Cuephoric or Jeff Sorrell with ultimate billiards could also just replace the rubber and cloth for you at a more reasonable rate, either of them could also probably shim the pockets if needed. It won't ever play like a diamond, but new rubber and cloth will help quite a bit with the playability. Good luck with your table.-Ryan
 
Table construction usually plays a huge factor in how a table banks. The thickness (height) of the subrail makes a big difference. A table with 1 1/2" thick subrails cannot be made to play like a table with 1 3/4" thick subrails.

I don't know what the subrail thickness is on your table, but it would serve you best to not wish for your table to play 'like a Diamond'. It may be possible for your table to play better than what you currently have, but it will likely never play 'like a Diamond'. The best way to get a table that plays 'like a Diamond' is to buy a Diamond.

All that aside, there are a few things that can be done, that may help the play of your table. Again, the serious limiting factor is the thickness of the subrails.

-Sometimes, tables bank poorly because of the rubber itself. Replacing the cushions could help, if they are in fact the problem. However, a simple replacement isn't always the cure.

-Sometimes, the nose height of the cushion is the problem. This can be caused by the wrong profile cushion being installed, a poor installation, or an improper subrail bevel angle.

-Loose cushions will make a table bank poorly. Sometimes, they can be reattached, without much worry. Sometimes, it may be best to just replace them.

-Loose components may affect the banks as well. Anything that can vibrate, or move, will absorb energy, potentially causing rails to play somewhat dead.


As for the pockets: If you want them to play more natural, you should have the subrails extended, and the openings cut to different specs. The depth of the pocket shelf factors into how the pockets accept balls. Taking this into account, you can modify the angle of the opening, and the down draft angle of the facing, to make the pockets play any way that you wish.
Doing this will require new cushions as well. This work generally tends to be a bit costly, and should only be performed by a knowledgeable and qualified mechanic.

Like Ramiii stated, anything more than a simple cushion replacement will likely be dead money, as you will not be able to recoup the value in resale.
It may be better to accept the table for what it is, replace the cushions, if they are the limiting factor, and upgrade when the time is right.

Good luck.
 
Here are some pics I took of the pockets:

FXikyK8.jpg


Q747lG3.jpg


7rLUwOH.jpg
 
It looks to me that if you extend the sub-rails to tighten the pockets you will have a very short pocket shelf, the distance that the slate extends into the pocket opening, which will make table play easy. As the sub-rails are extended the pocket shelf is reduced. Also the side pockets will never play tough because it looks like the slate opening actually extends out beyond the cushions. If it was my table I would consider getting a different used table. If you have a 7' table and want to stick with it I would consider a Valley then put new cushions and cloth on it if a used Diamond is out of the picture.
 
fastone371 said:
It looks to me that if you extend the sub-rails to tighten the pockets you will have a very short pocket shelf, the distance that the slate extends into the pocket opening, which will make table play easy. As the sub-rails are extended the pocket shelf is reduced. Also the side pockets will never play tough because it looks like the slate opening actually extends out beyond the cushions. If it was my table I would consider getting a different used table. If you have a 7' table and want to stick with it I would consider a Valley then put new cushions and cloth on it if a used Diamond is out of the picture.
Click to expand...

Best answer I've got so far, including several pm exchanges with "master mechanics". Looks like I'll leave the table as is for now.
 
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