How can I make my table play faster
- Thread starter Kevin Lindstrom
- Start date
Maybe rkc could comment, bu I believe you could take a hair dryer to the rails and heat them up a bit to increase the elasticity. Not a permanent solution, but you could use it to test.
Actually, with an extension cord, you could probably attach the hair dryer to your head and...glen? Did I come across the next big table improvement?
Actually, with an extension cord, you could probably attach the hair dryer to your head and...glen? Did I come across the next big table improvement?
buff the balls with auto wax every few months, or make a bucket ball polisher,
poor mans way; magic eraser the balls [wet] dry off, then apply auto wax let dry, buff off wax with micro fiber towel. Balls will be crazy fast and reactive to spin and draw! it will be stupid fast for about 10 games before it plays normal fast.
poor mans way; magic eraser the balls [wet] dry off, then apply auto wax let dry, buff off wax with micro fiber towel. Balls will be crazy fast and reactive to spin and draw! it will be stupid fast for about 10 games before it plays normal fast.
The speed in which a table plays is two part, 1 being the playing surface, which is determined by the type of cloth, how it's installed, how old it is...ect... then you have 2 the rails, cushions, rail bolts, design of rails...ect...
All tables have the same speed on the playing surface if the same cloth is used and installed correctly, for example using as stimp meter a ball that rolls out 39" on a 9ft will also roll out the same 39" on a 7ft. So, when someone tells me their table plays slow, and would like to know why....it's hard to give an answer without first knowing what the person means by "slow" and that can be better answered by first knowing what kind of table we're talking about, as "RAILS" have a lot to do with how FAST or SLOW a table can or will play.
All tables have the same speed on the playing surface if the same cloth is used and installed correctly, for example using as stimp meter a ball that rolls out 39" on a 9ft will also roll out the same 39" on a 7ft. So, when someone tells me their table plays slow, and would like to know why....it's hard to give an answer without first knowing what the person means by "slow" and that can be better answered by first knowing what kind of table we're talking about, as "RAILS" have a lot to do with how FAST or SLOW a table can or will play.
dom_poppa
Banned
It is not as easy as just changing the cloth. Changing the cloth on a perfect table will speed it up. I would check the bumpers too.
Also, depending on age of the table, some of the slates need to be resurfaced.
We had a table put in with brand new cloth and rubber and it is still slow. It also doesn't help that the balls drift off to the right. It was professionally installed and everything was leveled according to the installer but I am assuming the table needs to be resurfaced.
Also, depending on age of the table, some of the slates need to be resurfaced.
We had a table put in with brand new cloth and rubber and it is still slow. It also doesn't help that the balls drift off to the right. It was professionally installed and everything was leveled according to the installer but I am assuming the table needs to be resurfaced.
In 30 years of working on pool tables, I've yet to hear of a slate being resurfaced, but I have heard of them being set up by so called professionals...and the balls roll off after they're paid and gone.
I was ready to replace my old 860 that'd gotten fuzzy and slow (vacuuming finally took it's toll). Tried a clothes iron set to low and it knocked down the fuzzies and sped it back up nicely. Been doing it every couple months for few years now and doesn't seem to hurt the cloth. Wait till you're about to replace, just in case.
Do a 'cloth speed test'. http://billiards.colostate.edu/PBReview/Stimpmeter1.htm
"Seems" is very subjective - best way to put ur mind at ease (& settle arguments) is to get some accurate / repeatable data.
7 seconds for a 9 foot table with 860 is about par from memory ? (anyone correct me if I'm wrong please)
Rail response tests / rail speed tests is a whole other kettle of fish...
see posts 31 & 36 if u dont wanna read the whole thread... http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=321720&page=3
Cheers.
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It must have been 30 years ago that I thought I needed to have my slate surfaced, then you set me straight.:thumbup:
I have heard of some tables that have a heated slate, have no idea as to how that concept is done. Maybe Real King Cobra can chime in as to the effects and how this is done.--Smitty
I have had Simonis 860HR on my table for 17 years. I have been wanting it to wear out so I can justify replacing with Tournament Blue cloth and having the pockets tightened. Except for a 5 year stretch, the table gets played every day and for that 5 years, the table was played 3 days a week. But the stuff just won't wear out.
IMO the part in red is your possible cause. Assuming everything is still tight and right, including the rail bolts, nose height ....
The rubber has gone dead from lack of use. Start using it and it may come back alive. My neighbor got a table that hadn't been used for years and it was dead as dead could be. Its now getting more life back.
Billiard tables use heat to keep the cloth warmer than the air temprature to keep the humidity out of the cloth, which is friction against the billiard balls which can effect the game.
Almost all quality 3C tables are heated. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carom_billiards#Heated_slate
This thread has some info on heating a table and some equipment that can be added http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=218323
The table I have is a Saunier Wilhem table. The slate is 1" thick and the frame is pretty heavy duty. If I posted a picture 99% of viewers would swear it is a Brunswich Gold Crown. The table rolls perfectly level and I am very happy with that aspect I just wish it was a bit faster.
I have found out from another online source that the rail rubber can easliy be replace with K-66 rail rubber and that will probably be my first option. I hate to remove the like brand new 860 that is on the table mainly due to costs. I hope to have more answers from my installer on Thursday morning.
Kevin
P.S. I forgot to add that I am using a brand new set of Brunswich Centennial balls bought at the Super Billiards Expo. The balls are new and very clean so dirty balls are not the cause for the table seeming slow.
I have found out from another online source that the rail rubber can easliy be replace with K-66 rail rubber and that will probably be my first option. I hate to remove the like brand new 860 that is on the table mainly due to costs. I hope to have more answers from my installer on Thursday morning.
Kevin
P.S. I forgot to add that I am using a brand new set of Brunswich Centennial balls bought at the Super Billiards Expo. The balls are new and very clean so dirty balls are not the cause for the table seeming slow.
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I have a Saunier Wilhem 9ft in my shop in WA I was working on before I took off for a break in CA. Good luck changing out them cushions with the fir sub-rails, and installing K66 cushions on the 1 3/4" sub-rails. It's not a bad table, it's OK, but it's not even in the same ball park as a GC. But, if the right mechanic were to work on the rails and install the correct K55 cushions, the speed of the rails would be that of a GC or Diamond rebuilt. Contact Mark Gregory to see about doing you some rail work.
Did you vacuum it to get it super clean?
I replaced my 860 13 months ago, it already has many burn marks, half a dozen small snags, and wear in the rail grooves. I cant believe how fast it seems to be wearing, I am going to try 860HR next, I got talked out of it last time and I think I regret it. I take good care of table too, Covered 100% of time when not in use, weekly vacuuming and wiping down, and balls are cleaned bi-weekly. I have a brand new set of Aramith Tournament balls and a 13 month old set of Centennials that I rotate thru. Also, no jumping on my table.