Garage Table Seams Separating

pocket

pocket

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*Fixed! UDATED Post 37* Garage Table Seams Separating

I had a 9' table installed in my garage around 6 months ago. I hadn't played on it in about a week.

When I went out last night and was retrieving balls from the pockets and rolling them down table to rack, I heard the click click as the balls passed over the seams.

When I felt them, sure enough, both seams are separating.

The installer used wax when he put in the table, could that be it?

Any input or experience as to why this could happen would be appreciated.
 
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Is your garage climate controlled? I had same problem in my basement. Temperature and humidity swings can cause this as the table expands and contracts. Humidity is my prob. Damp in the summer (even with dehumidifier running), and dry in the winter (have corn stove in basement). About the only cureIis take it apart and start over. When the slates are put together, put 3 or 4 thin pieces of cardboard in between each slate. When level, soak those pieces with superglue. Trim them flush and do your wax job.

Unless it gets really serious, I would live with it and fix it on your next re cloth.
 
The table in our community center has done the same thing -- twice. Jerimy Chambers (well known Chicago-area table mechanic) installed new cloth and came back to fix the seams 4 months later.

According to him the slates shifted because the maker (Presidential Billiard Tables) used solid wood beams for the two main logitudinal supports, instead of laminated beams.

He said the solid wood beam is effected by humidity whereas the laminated beams aren't. Not sure if he was right, but the seams split again about 3 months later.
 
bdorman said:
The table in our community center has done the same thing -- twice. Jerimy Chambers (well known Chicago-area table mechanic) installed new cloth and came back to fix the seams 4 months later.

According to him the slates shifted because the maker (Presidential Billiard Tables) used solid wood beams for the two main logitudinal supports, instead of laminated beams.

He said the solid wood beam is effected by humidity whereas the laminated beams aren't. Not sure if he was right, but the seams split again about 3 months later.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I know my support beams are solid. Southern California, so we don't get huge shifts, but perhaps enough.
 
pocket said:
Interesting. I know my support beams are solid. Southern California, so we don't get huge shifts, but perhaps enough.
Click to expand...

Yes, your beams are probably reacting to the change between Great Weather and Really Great Weather :p

You need to move to the Upper Midwest where we reguarly have 40-50 degree temp swings in a day!
 
I do granite countertops for a living so stone seams are my specialty! Do the superglue and cardboard method. Then cram as much bondo into the crack as possible. The superglue is more of a temporary hold while the bondo is more permanent. Be sure to wipe both glues off the surface with acetone. Then fill the crack with wax. If you really want to go pro, use polyester knife grade epoxy instead of bondo. Better yet would be polyester flowing epoxy but you would have to put something underneath the seams to keep it from running through the bottom. Bondo is similar to the knife grade and more easily accessible outside of the stone industry.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
jgobigred said:
I do granite countertops for a living so stone seams are my specialty! Do the superglue and cardboard method. Then cram as much bondo into the crack as possible. The superglue is more of a temporary hold while the bondo is more permanent. Be sure to wipe both glues off the surface with acetone. Then fill the crack with wax. If you really want to go pro, use polyester knife grade epoxy instead of bondo. Better yet would be polyester flowing epoxy but you would have to put something underneath the seams to keep it from running through the bottom. Bondo is similar to the knife grade and more easily accessible outside of the stone industry.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Seems like the cardboard thing makes some sense (adds a little flex?), but wouldn't the super glue kill any flexibility? And where would the bondo then the wax fit, wouldn't the cardboard fill the gap?

Moreover I do not have the skill, or confidence, to take the table apart to fix it. Let me re-phrase that, I could take the table apart, and I bet I could level the table with some work. I highly doubt I could properly re stretch the cloth.
 
I used the cardboard method on my table, with spray glue and hard cardboard from a cereal box, then filled the seams with durhams water putty, it's advertised to not shrink or expand, going on a year now with plenty of temperature shifts (Portland Oregon) and seams are perfect still, and you don't fill the gap with cardboard, you use two squares, each towards different sides if the slate. There are excellent YouTube instructional videos on doing this and stretching the cloth
 
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poolguppy said:
I used the cardboard method on my table, with spray glue and hard cardboard from a cereal box, then filled the seams with durhams water putty, it's advertised to not shrink or expand, going on a year now with plenty of temperature shifts (Portland Oregon) and seams are perfect still, and you don't fill the gap with cardboard, you use two squares, each towards different sides if the slate. There are excellent YouTube instructional videos on doing this and stretching the cloth
Click to expand...

I'm curious if your table is in a garage?
 
Does anyone have experience removing wax from the slate so that bondo or putty will stick if I chose to go that route?
 
pocket said:
Does anyone have experience removing wax from the slate so that bondo or putty will stick if I chose to go that route?
Click to expand...

Hot water....as hot as you can stand it. Or wear gloves. Hot water and rag works good on wax. Has to be HOT! Wipes right off.
 
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The wax seems to always do that. This is what I use. http://waterputty.com/ to seem the slate along with the super glue deal. Seems to do a good job for me. Tables will always move. I have done some of the K Steel tables with the steel frame and they move as well. The slightest of movement will show up when the ball goes across it. Hard to keep it perfect. You might have it perfect but chances are it will move over time. Best of luck
 
poolguppy said:
I used the cardboard method on my table, with spray glue and hard cardboard from a cereal box, then filled the seams with durhams water putty, it's advertised to not shrink or expand, going on a year now with plenty of temperature shifts (Portland Oregon) and seams are perfect still, and you don't fill the gap with cardboard, you use two squares, each towards different sides if the slate. There are excellent YouTube instructional videos on doing this and stretching the cloth
Click to expand...



Do you have a link for this? thanks
 
Liquid Dowels

pocket said:
I had a 9' table installed in my garage around 6 months ago. I hadn't played on it in about a week.

When I went out last night and was retrieving balls from the pockets and rolling them down table to rack, I heard the click click as the balls passed over the seams.

When I felt them, sure enough, both seams are separating.

The installer used wax when he put in the table, could that be it?

Any input or experience as to why this could happen would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

This is what you need. I have to say please do not use spray glue and Durhams Rock Hard. Use the Liquid Dowel with 4 pieces of paper on each seam. If you want to beef it up more than that use Bondo afterwards for the seam instead of the wax sticks.
 

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