What's Your Dream Full Splice Cue?

I'm pretty happy with the one on the left. The middle one too. Sadly, the one on the right is just an old A-joint style Scruggs.





 
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LGSM3 said:
Buckeye burl is trash wood...needs a monster core. DBK does full splice in its purest form. Unfortunately the way he has to cut the pieces it would surely explode most every piece he tries. If you will notice most every wood he uses is pretty dense and straight grained and even then it's dangerous as hell.

If I did that I'd hit the power feed and run in the other room
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Absolutely right said, especially about the hellish danger :thumbup:. Each recut is an adventure for me. Therefore, only a straight grain. The truth, it is more dangerous not for me but for the milling wood ;). Sometimes it is very disappointing when breaking the tip of the crown at the end of the process. In addition, each recut requires a lot of wood, for one crown about 10-12" of perfect wood. A lot goes into chips.
But I also use a core when necessary, if there are doubts about the stability of the straightness of the wood.
 
DBK said:
But I also use a core when necessary, if there are doubts about the stability of the straightness of the wood.
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Simply the best! :)
 
Thanks for the education

Larry, Jake, and Dimitry, thanks for the education. So it looks like I'll need to stay away from the burls for a full splice. What about WF bubinga, lacewood, palm wood, or possibly a rosewood for the bottom splice (larger handle section)?
-R
 
DBK said:
Absolutely right said, especially about the hellish danger :thumbup:. Each recut is an adventure for me. Therefore, only a straight grain. The truth, it is more dangerous not for me but for the milling wood ;). Sometimes it is very disappointing when breaking the tip of the crown at the end of the process. In addition, each recut requires a lot of wood, for one crown about 10-12" of perfect wood. A lot goes into chips.
But I also use a core when necessary, if there are doubts about the stability of the straightness of the wood.
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I tried, what I think is, your method of splicing a few years back. After two weeks of launching wood and sever chatter eating up wood. I gave up. You sir have my respect for the cues you make.!

Larry
 
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RAMIII said:
Larry, Jake, and Dimitry, thanks for the education. So it looks like I'll need to stay away from the burls for a full splice. What about WF bubinga, lacewood, palm wood, or possibly a rosewood for the bottom splice (larger handle section)?
-R
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I have had WF bubinga move. Have had good luck with straight grain bubinga. It might be a little heavy to pair with ebony. Lace wood would work. It's light and stable. Palm is heavy and unstable. Rosewood it to generic of a description. EI rosewood may work. Would be a very dark cue. These are just my thoughts. You milage may very!

Larry
 
very helpful

Perfect, this is what I was needing to hear. Thanks for the guidance Larry.
-R


QUOTE=63Kcode;5072250]I have had WF bubinga move. Have had good luck with straight grain bubinga. It might be a little heavy to pair with ebony. Lace wood would work. It's light and stable. Palm is heavy and unstable. Rosewood it to generic of a description. EI rosewood may work. Would be a very dark cue. These are just my thoughts. You milage may very!

Larry[/QUOTE]
 
Hickory Burl

Guys, can anyone tell me about Hickory burl and if it's fairly stable?
-R
 
RAMIII said:
Larry, Jake, and Dimitry, thanks for the education. So it looks like I'll need to stay away from the burls for a full splice. What about WF bubinga, lacewood, palm wood, or possibly a rosewood for the bottom splice (larger handle section)?
-R
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Just in case you have not found a lacewood into ebony spliced cue yet.

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Larry
 
Larry, sorry I missed this cue! It's gorgeous. Did a Texas buyer get it?
Hope you're doing well and thanks for posting heartbreaking pics! ;)
-Ryan
 
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