Do you just use a rag to wipe your shaft off? Or do you use one of those scrub things?
What do you use to clean your shaft?
- Thread starter Darkridder
- Start date
Where do you get 4000 & 6000 grit sandpaper?
The best I can find anywhere is 2000 grit and of course, Croakus Cloth.
Matt B.
The best I can find anywhere is 2000 grit and of course, Croakus Cloth.
Matt B.
What he said :thumbup:
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Not exactly 1 to 1 grit comparison but these work very well... Micro Mesh Sheets
http://www.amazon.com/MICRO-MESH-SANDING-SHEETS-INTRODUCTORY/dp/B000H6HIK2
Just to clarify, I didn't mean to imply using sand paper to clean shafts. I DO NOT recommend using sand paper to "clean" a shaft... This is only as a reference to finer grit sheets...
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shaft
You really only need to clean the shaft once, from that point on its all about maintaining the shaft..
If the shaft gets clean and sealed it really will not need cleaning any more !
But no one wants some sticky clear coat on here shaft...........
There is a happy medium in all this but you will have to maintain the shaft on a monthly or even on a weekly bases depending on how much you play.
I can only assume you do not have a lathe.
You will need denatured alcohol, a small can of CLEAR shellac , and a can of hard yellow carnauba car wax. Paper towels. And a Scotch Brite pad
All of these supplies can be found at every hard ware store
White paper towel and soak it with denatured alcohol and rub or scrub the dirt grim and chalk out of the shaft, keep on doing this until the white paper towels will not remove any more dirt.
I use several white towels and at the end I use a wet paper towel like the white glove test.
The shaft will feel fuzzy because the denatured alcohol raises the grain.
The micro fibers is what makes the shaft feel funny, don't worry the shellac and wax will take care of this.
Then I mix 1 once of denatured alcohol and 1 once of clear shellac and wipe the mixture on to the shaft as a ( shaft sealer )
This mixture dries in seconds so just put one layer on after the next.
After applying five to ten coats of the shellac and alcohol < shaft sealer >
take a green red or gray Scotch Brite pad and LIGHTLY buff off the excess shellac
Which is about 95% of all the sealer you applied will be buffed off.
What you have done is sealed the pours in the wood so dirt and grim cannot get in.
The shaft should feel smooth but kind of sticky.
I use two different waxes carnauba and synthetic waxes but this time just use the carnauba wax.
Carnauba wax is the hardest and has the highest melting point of the three known natural waxes.
Wax the shaft with hard yellow carnauba car wax several times and give the wax time to dry hard on the shaft.
then buff the shaft smooth and slick.
You need to know the natural oils in and on your hands will break down the carnauba waxes and the shellac.
If I was shooting 40 hrs per week then I would strip the shellac and carnauba wax off with denatured alcohol and reseal and wax weekly.
The shellac is good for the wood and will keep it from drying out.
takes about 15 minutes on the maintenance end and about 45 minutes for the first cleaning.
This is what I use for myself and all of my customers...
If you use this technic then you will never sand on your shaft and the more you maintain the shaft the cleaner it will get.......
It may take 5 or 6 cleanings to get the shaft as clean as possible.
This cleaning and waxing technic is 100% safe, it will not harm the shaft and you are not using sand paper or even the scotch Brite pad on the wood.
Your shaft should last for decades...........................................
You really only need to clean the shaft once, from that point on its all about maintaining the shaft..
If the shaft gets clean and sealed it really will not need cleaning any more !
But no one wants some sticky clear coat on here shaft...........
There is a happy medium in all this but you will have to maintain the shaft on a monthly or even on a weekly bases depending on how much you play.
I can only assume you do not have a lathe.
You will need denatured alcohol, a small can of CLEAR shellac , and a can of hard yellow carnauba car wax. Paper towels. And a Scotch Brite pad
All of these supplies can be found at every hard ware store
White paper towel and soak it with denatured alcohol and rub or scrub the dirt grim and chalk out of the shaft, keep on doing this until the white paper towels will not remove any more dirt.
I use several white towels and at the end I use a wet paper towel like the white glove test.
The shaft will feel fuzzy because the denatured alcohol raises the grain.
The micro fibers is what makes the shaft feel funny, don't worry the shellac and wax will take care of this.
Then I mix 1 once of denatured alcohol and 1 once of clear shellac and wipe the mixture on to the shaft as a ( shaft sealer )
This mixture dries in seconds so just put one layer on after the next.
After applying five to ten coats of the shellac and alcohol < shaft sealer >
take a green red or gray Scotch Brite pad and LIGHTLY buff off the excess shellac
Which is about 95% of all the sealer you applied will be buffed off.
What you have done is sealed the pours in the wood so dirt and grim cannot get in.
The shaft should feel smooth but kind of sticky.
I use two different waxes carnauba and synthetic waxes but this time just use the carnauba wax.
Carnauba wax is the hardest and has the highest melting point of the three known natural waxes.
Wax the shaft with hard yellow carnauba car wax several times and give the wax time to dry hard on the shaft.
then buff the shaft smooth and slick.
You need to know the natural oils in and on your hands will break down the carnauba waxes and the shellac.
If I was shooting 40 hrs per week then I would strip the shellac and carnauba wax off with denatured alcohol and reseal and wax weekly.
The shellac is good for the wood and will keep it from drying out.
takes about 15 minutes on the maintenance end and about 45 minutes for the first cleaning.
This is what I use for myself and all of my customers...
If you use this technic then you will never sand on your shaft and the more you maintain the shaft the cleaner it will get.......
It may take 5 or 6 cleanings to get the shaft as clean as possible.
This cleaning and waxing technic is 100% safe, it will not harm the shaft and you are not using sand paper or even the scotch Brite pad on the wood.
Your shaft should last for decades...........................................
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A dry Magic Eraser pad works well.
Baby Gentle Cleansing!
thats what i use to clean my Z shaft the last 2 years
one or two make the job ,i also use them to clean the irish linen grip:thumbup:
JOHNSON’S® Baby Gentle Cleansing
thats what i use to clean my Z shaft the last 2 years
one or two make the job ,i also use them to clean the irish linen grip:thumbup:
denatured alcohol
I use denatured alcohol with a cotton towel, 2000 grit wet or dry per lightly, then cue silk.
I use denatured alcohol with a cotton towel, 2000 grit wet or dry per lightly, then cue silk.
I just use a microfiber cloth. I prefer to keep the shaft dry and not use anything abrasive until it gets too bad, when you need the process MMike described.
I've found this works well also. Technically it does raise the grain but the magic eraser takes it back down immediately since it is an abrasive as well...But I finish with Renaissance Micro-crystalline polishing wax. This special wax seals the shaft as well. Imo it's THE BEST wax for ALL parts of the cue actually. Works great when applied over linen or leather wraps as a polish and sealer for fabrics. This wax is so versatile...
Its commonly re-packaged as shaft paper. I think its called ceramic grade sandpaper. Magic Eraser, I estimate is just under 2000 grit.
Is there any benefit (or detriment) to periodically wiping a shaft with a dry cloth and then applying an automotive wax or polish? That would seem to be an easy way to keep the shaft clean (assuming you start with a clean shaft), protected and sealed.