Cue Joints - Pins and Threads

[WGDave]

You might like reading this: http://www.dzcues.com/modified_pin.html

Thanks AtLarge. Very educational, and helps explain why my 3/8-10 modified joint never becomes loose while playing.

The Unilock joint on my previous cue would always become loose, to the point I became obsessed with checking it during play. That cue was stolen...maybe the thief did me a favor?

 

[Qaddiction]

The 3/8-10 Flat Bottom seemed to be a much better pin than the standard 3/8-10 in my opinion. I had a Murrell with one. Very nice fit. I'm a believer.

 

[Dave-Kat]

OP > Generally 'Big Pin' cues screw directly into a the wood shaft. I, like many here have or have had this set up. Wood joint's screw nice and tight, and generally do not come loose after initial re-snug after hitting a few. This is unless you get a used cue that was not taken care of.

Meucci has used a 5/16x18 pin for many, many years. Most here should know this. Sure Bob could whip up a 'custom' request for a G10 set up for 2017 delivery the way they roll and you troll.


If you are thinking that the wood will wear out or become loose after time, if you assemble carefully and make sure you are not playing with shaft loose you are G to G for many, many years of enjoyment

Have a good day,

-Kat,

 

[DawgAndy]

i didn't read all the threads but what about a Lambros? that's a piloted big pin

 

[ENGLISH!]

I've hit one of his cues with both the G-10 & the Aluminum pin last year. I liked both.

I was NOT trying to put down Meucci.

A guy at the hall had a cue made up with a G-10 by another cue maker & he said it ate up the shaft & he said he was not abusive with it but not especially careful with it either either. I forget what line of work he was in but when I asked a challenging question he laid it on me that he new what he was talking about & said that if I got the one with the G10 to take could care or perhaps even place some wax on the pin & still take good care. He suggested I go with the aluminum pin if was going to get one.

If you go to the Meucci site, you might find that it is/was a standard option for certain models. So I would think that they had those already made up or would be a 'quick' make up.

It was not so much a 'custom' deal.

That may no longer be the case. I don't know.

 

[JoeyInCali]

I use black G10 3/8 11 on my cues sometimes .
They just need oil/wax once in a while .

 

[Cornerman]

Meucci uses G10?

The new Meucci cues are the 3/8-10. G10 is an option.

 

[Cornerman]

Meucci has used a 5/16x18 pin for many, many years. Most here should know this. Sure Bob could whip up a 'custom' request for a G10 set up for 2017 delivery the way they roll and you troll. ,

I'm not sure what you're saying, but the new Meucci cues (BMC Model) come with a 3/8-10.. The G10 is not a special request... it's a standard on several BMC cues.

Freddie

 

[Cornerman]

Meucci uses a G10 pin for weight & flex reasons but I've been told that it 'eats' into the wood threads so care needs to be taken when screwing & unscrewing.

Honestly, as an assembly engineer and not a cuemaker, I don't know why any cuemaker would use G10 either. It's a pretty aggressive material. I think whoever used it first just did so because he had some lying around, and others followed suit. Of all the wonderful composites and plastics to use, G-x wouldn't even be on my radar if I were to screw something directly into wood.

Freddie <~~~ but then again, what would I know?

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

modified

You might like reading this: http://www.dzcues.com/modified_pin.html

The modified pin does look to be a improvement, But I haven't had any issue with the normal 3/8 x 10 pin.
I haven't had any issue so far drilling and taping my shafts and keeping everything concentric.

 

[Dave-Kat]

Thanks for clearing that up Cornerman. Have not looked at Meucci's new standard offerings. I know that they *were 5/16x18 for last 35 years or so unless you ordered up custom. I have a old Original from back then I take out and play once and awhile. She's a 'whip'.

-Kat,

*disclaimer

 

[ENGLISH!]

Honestly, as an assembly engineer and not a cuemaker, I don't know why any cuemaker would use G10 either. It's a pretty aggressive material. I think whoever used it first just did so because he had some lying around, and others followed suit. Of all the wonderful composites and plastics to use, G-x wouldn't even be on my radar if I were to screw something directly into wood.

Freddie <~~~ but then again, what would I know?

Freddy,

Or anyone,

I don't even know & I should, but does a G10 have any flexibility in it or is it stiff & not 'pliable' at all?

 

[Dave-Kat]

Stainless is aprox 10x harder ( Rockwell ) than G10. So I would imagine without scientific proof that G10 is more flexible and forgiving that SS. Is that good ? Possibly for WW applications as it would be potentially easier on wood threading over time.

-Kat,

 

[ENGLISH!]

Stainless is aprox 10x harder ( Rockwell ) than G10. So I would imagine without scientific proof that G10 is more flexible and forgiving that SS. Is that good ? Possibly for WW applications as it would be potentially easier on wood threading over time.

-Kat,

The reason I asked is because of Bob Meucci's Theories on flex, but if the cue is locked down tight at the collars I don't see how that could come into play... unless the collar is also pliable.

I've notice that the coating on certain Meucci cues is cracking in certain conspicuous places .

That does not mean it has anything to do with the pin. It could be for other reasons, but the question just entered my head.

Thanks for the reply &

Best Wishes,
Rick

 

[Cornerman]

Freddy,

Or anyone,

I don't even know & I should, but does a G10 have any flexibility in it or is it stiff & not 'pliable' at all?

Pretty subjective, but it's pretty stiff, but not anywhere near as stiff as steel.

The wonders of G10 are that it's incredibly strong in compression and tension, and has a very high strength to weight ratio and stiffness to density ratio, and it's not as brittle as other glass phenolics. But, it's still a glass phenolic (fiberglass), and therefore very abrasive.

 

[Kim Bye]

G10 is plenty hard, when the cue is screwed together, that pin does not go anywhere...
As for inserts, if you like them, use them, it`s your cue.
I tried some types of nylon like in old Huebler cues, with fine threads, there is a real danger of crossthreading.Phenolic works fine, some woods are naturally oily and work wery well as inserts, I have tried ebony, olivewood and purpleheart, but I guess there are lots of other woods that would work.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Pretty subjective, but it's pretty stiff, but not anywhere near as stiff as steel.

The wonders of G10 are that it's incredibly strong in compression and tension, and has a very high strength to weight ratio and stiffness to density ratio, and it's not as brittle as other glass phenolics. But, it's still a glass phenolic (fiberglass), and therefore very abrasive.

It flexes and not nearly as scary to work with than aluminum.
When you spin a cue with a G10 screw and accidentally lose the tail stock while the screw is chucked up, it will flex and go back to it's original form, 100%.
Aluminum might get bent .
That's why I don't use aluminum .
G10 3/8 joint screws weigh around 1/3 of an ounce. About 1 oz. lighter than brass and SS.
Titanium is about 3/4 of an oz and cost a lot more .

I'd rather replace a G10 screw than blow torch a steel screw .

 

[GoldCrown]

I really just have a thing against wood threads, although I suppose I could get over it.

I side with you. You are not alone. I do not like the 3/8 set up in the shaft. I like a UniLoc, 5/16 piloted, Pechauer, etc.

 

[ENGLISH!]

Pretty subjective, but it's pretty stiff, but not anywhere near as stiff as steel.

The wonders of G10 are that it's incredibly strong in compression and tension, and has a very high strength to weight ratio and stiffness to density ratio, and it's not as brittle as other glass phenolics. But, it's still a glass phenolic (fiberglass), and therefore very abrasive.

Thanks, Freddie.

That's what I thought.

Best Wishes,
Rick

 

[Veteran68]

Wood to wood is joint only and not threads. You can have a phonelic insert in the shaft for 3/8X10 screw. You are good to go.

Thanks for clarifying what I thought was true, on both counts. Recent reading had me second guessing myself.

I side with you. You are not alone. I do not like the 3/8 set up in the shaft. I like a UniLoc, 5/16 piloted, Pechauer, etc.

Yeah, I just can't get past the idea of repeatedly screwing/unscrewing metal into wood threads. I'm sure it's fine, as 3/8x10 seems to be one of the most popular pins. And from what I'm hearing, inserts are possible but not that common, so it must not be a big deal. I'm just thinking that my 30 year old M.O. with a 5/16x18 pin and original shafts screw in as tight as they did when brand new -- it just doesn't seem like wood threads would hold up that long. But like I said, I could be convinced to get over it...

I'll talk to my cuemaker about the possibility of the insert, but another option might be to ask if he'll do the modified 3/8x10, since it certainly looks more sturdy and less likely to chew up threads than the traditional pin.

To the person who asked why I want a big pin but not wood threads... I don't necessarily *want* the big pin, it's just so common and the one this cuemaker said he uses. When I last spoke with him, I didn't think to ask if he used an insert, because I've always had an insert and just assumed so. After it dawned on me there may be no insert, I wanted to get some clarification before I asked him and looked like a total goober. At least now I feel I can somewhat intelligently discuss options.

Thanks all!