Any tips on using super glue for finishing?

Without failure there is no knowledge of success.[/QUOTE]

I find it satisfying making things right the 1st time, especially if it is something new to me that I have not done before.

Failures show the flaws in the process or the execution of the process or for some other reason. The failures will continue until the reason for the failures can be understood and the lessons learnt. In some cases a catastrophic failure is actually a success, like a bomb.

A chemist friend that the reaction between the oil and cyano makes a form of varnish. Using an oil that does not yellow will help to keep the coating from yellowing over time. A fellow years ago I think called himself GreyGhost or Ghost or something like that, posted that he used oil on a lint free paper towel. Then after a thin coat of oil applied the CA and continued until he made the desired layers. I have done that and it does work very well. He mentioned that the oil used was not that important, but if the CA does not set when applied over the oil, do not use that oil.

Neil
 
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i dont like accelerators for ca....causes too many issues on occassion, and just weakens it anyways. also I'd advise against sanding CA to strip it......you can wrap a cloth in acetone (be sure not leaving it on certain plastics) an leave the cue wrapped for 10 min or so and then give it a wipe and repeat that a few times, ends up coming off very nicely without having to sand.

Just be sure to do this outdoors preferably, with wind blowing away from you....or a good mask.
 
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i dont sand super glue....i use oils of differing kinds like BLO, Vegetable oil etc..... \

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc


this guy basically does what I do...its very simple, just takes a bunch of coats.....great finish. I've got some that are over 7 years old and look great. I've used vegetable, ,Walnut, tung, BLO, L.O., olive, corn oils all to great success.

I have heard that mineral oil isn't good and wont do the same.

The oils i mentioned first all will bond with CA to make a co-polymer resin. Because of the triglycerides and such in them.
 
Here's the finished cue. It came out terrific. Just like everybody said, after doing this finish once I know I'll be able to repeat it.

Cue is 58.5 inches, 18.2 ounces, 12.6 mm tip, eactly as I wanted it. Cue plays really nicely. Shaft is old stock from a deceased cuemaker turned over years. All I had to do was the final sand. I'll post pics shortly.
 

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cueenvy said:
Here's the finished cue. It came out terrific. Just like everybody said, after doing this finish once I know I'll be able to repeat it.

Cue is 58.5 inches, 18.2 ounces, 12.6 mm tip, eactly as I wanted it. Cue plays really nicely. Shaft is old stock from a deceased cuemaker turned over years. All I had to do was the final sand. I'll post pics shortly.
Click to expand...


ahhh man that looks terrible....you should mail it over here, i'll let the kids at the pool program use it as a banger.....I'll send you a meuci.....you can practice jumping full table with it lol:eek:


jokes.......keep up the good work.....and remember safety first in the shop, and the most important thing in making a quality playing cue much less some high end looker is....PATIENCE


regards,
Keebie
 
I've been using CA for 6 years. I use Stick fast long cure CA with Stick Fast aerosol accelerator. I spread 5-6 coats l, applying it by placing the tip of the bottle on the top of the spinning cue and a folded paper towel touching the underside of the cue. Spread evenly from top to bottom, let spin for a minute or so and spray with accelerator. After 6 coats I take a carbide tipped utility razor and hold it on top of the cue running Parallel and lightly scrap of the high spots. This cuts dust down tremendously. After I have the finish level ( no shiny spots ), I sand lengthwise with 400 with the cue not spinning. Whip the cue down with alcohol, let dry, apply two more coats, these coats go on very smooth. Sand with 1000-3000 lengthwise with the cue not spinning. Buff with Mazerna polishes, Cue components System 5 works great but I'm pretty sure it's Mazerna. If you look on the Web you can find it cheaper. When buffing, use micro fiber cloth and never apply a lot of pressure or stay in one spot too long. Here is some of my finishes.
 

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Iv been using CA for the last 5 years i get the best results applying 10+ coats of thin CA without accelerater. I sand lightly sand with 600 between every 3-4 coats, once I feel like the finish is thick enough. Maybe .003"-.004" I sand with 1000 up to 8000 then polish and buff. I get a perfect mirror finish this way, it takes a lot of patience tho. using the accelerator I get fog from time to time.



 
Thanks guys for sharing your methods. I think I'll try shaving off the high spots with the carbide utility blade. When I sanded some high spots I noticed adjacent areas getting thin..so knocking them down with a blade early on makes sense.

I just picked up 4.5 oz Stick Fast 12 bucks and Micromesh 3x4pads, 1500-12000 for 15 bucks delivered. I'll be all set for my next 3 or 4 cues. Thx again.
 
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I found I got "fog" when using cheaper CA with the accelerator. Stick Fast products are for finishes, the accelerator never "fogs" on me and the ninth is always glossy.
 
grate posts guys......love how we all have our own ways, like seahorse with the carbide knocking down the highs......cool beans
 
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