How do you do a full splice cored cue ?

Chopdoc said:
Sure, I get it.

I was just wondering how it would be done. As I was saying kind of like putting a handle in. But it would be longer and extend farther into the butt.

In a full splice with an ebony back end it could be cored half way and the core threaded into the butt to a point somewhere in the middle. That would require some very deep threads. And some long glue relief channels. Without relief you could build up enough pressure to split the but as you screwed the core into a blind ended bore I would think. If that pressure is in the splice, as it would be in the proposed "half core", then i would suspect splitting it right at the splice would be a risk without careful pressure relief. This would be especially true is using an expanding adhesive.

I have in fact seen a fully threaded core. Don't remember who did that though.

I am thinking that just gluing in a partial core would be unsatisfactory, but a cue maker could certainly comment better on that.

All of what I am saying is just arm chair quarterbacking so any cue maker can feel free to slap me down. :smile:




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It would not require threading.
It just has to be smaller than the buttsleeve tenon .
 
john coloccia said:
Yes. You need to use a 4 jaw chuck, which is normally how you do any sort of precision machining anyhow. If the piece is square to start, it's almost as easy indicating a square part as it is a round one in a in a 4 jaw. They even make 4 jaw scroll chucks, but they always seemed more like practical jokes to me than anything else. :)
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John, I remember a friend of mine who used to make cues, had a 6 jaw Bison chuck on his Grizzly lathe. I wonder if there are precision differences between the 4 jaw, and the 6. I would imagine that logically the answer would have to be yes, but WTH do I know. ;)
j2
 
j2pac said:
John, I remember a friend of mine who used to make cues, had a 6 jaw Bison chuck on his Grizzly lathe. I wonder if there are precision differences between the 4 jaw, and the 6. I would imagine that logically the answer would have to be yes, but WTH do I know. ;)
j2
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The advantage to a 6 jaw chuck is you get the same clamping with less pressure per jaw. That reduces distortion on thin walled parts. As far as accuracy, it has little to do with the number of jaws. Scroll chucks are always inaccurate. If you're within a couple of mils on a scroll chuck, even the most expensive ones on the planet, you're doing OK. If you need it more accurate than that, you either need to cut soft jaws at the exact radius you need, use independent jaws, or a collet chuck.

Collet chucks are good to whatever you want them to be good to. Their accuracy is essentially determined by the accuracy of the tapers and you can get them turning very, very true! :) It's a beautiful thing when you stick a ground rod in a collet chuck, stick an indicator on it, and the indicator doesn't move....at all. A good collet chuck can cost more than a good lathe.

Edit:
And just to be clear, there's nothing WRONG with scroll chucks. You simply can't make the scroll and the jaws perfect, and even if you did it would quickly wear out and become imperfect again. If you can live with a thou or two of runout, and even by machining standards that's OK for the vast majority of work, they're just fine. I've even done precision work on chucks that are much worse than that. It's a matter of doing things in the right order and "hiding" the runout places where it doesn't matter. :)
 
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