tips - backing questions
- Thread starter Ched
- Start date
Back in the old days, it was used to protect ivory ferrules. Chandivert, Tweeten, and others have also sold tips with pads pre-glued to the tip. Some swear up and down it softens the hit, and youll hear some say it makes the hit feel firm.
With LD shafts, several of the makers use some variant of a tip pad to seal the open end of a hollow shaft to have something to actually glue a tip on to.
All in all, IMO they arent needed (unless its the hollow shaft situation), and dont really do much. One nice aspect of them, is once they are on the shaft, retipping a cue becomes a little easier. You dont have to get as close to the ferrule etc.
I think most low deflection shafts have a tenon and are using capped ferrules. I was told the capped ferrule gives you a firmer hit. Not sure if that's true.
you might want to post this in the "ask the cuemaker " section
The original OB shafts were hollow on the front end. I have seen the hole after the pad w/ tip still attached have popped off of more than a few. Ive also see the foam rubber rod for lack of a better term that is inside the old OB shafts. Have a buddy whose OB1 shaft exploded on his lathe..... learned a bit about their construction there..... :thumbup:
Predator BK 2 has some kind of foam filled bore under the pad.... I have seen that one too, same situation with pad and tip flying off after a miscue.
I suspect the new predator shafts (314-3 and vantage) are similar, as they say removing or reducing the thickness of the pad voids the warranty. They went as far as to recommend having the pad replaced by predator authorized repair shops if it goes below a certain thickness. Havent seen one with the pad glue joint failure yet to know for sure.
The ones I have seen that definitely have capped ferrules were the original 314s, the 314-2s, the newer OB classic shafts, and Tigers. Havent seen the Jacoby or other shafts to know for sure.
A capped ferrule is of course better IMO, as it isnt as finicky about retipping. :thumbup:
I was taught years ago that the purpose of the pad is to protect ivory ferrules from radial expansion due to tip mushrooming and compression during hard shots. Those ferrules are strong in the axial direction, but are fibrous and not as resistant to splitting from radial forces. The same concerns would seem to be in play for ferruless and hollow shafts. I always protect my ferrules with a pad. If what is was taught is wrong, then I will have been overly protective. If I ignore the advice and it was correct, I could ruin ferrules that will become increasingly more difficult to replace.
Pads really go back to the Champion and Crown tips, that I think were prior to Chandivert, who marketed those names later.
Agree with Chuck Fields, they may or may not give you a preferred hit, depending on your preference, and may or may not be needed, depending on what's underneath your ferrule, for LD shafts.
I happen to like them for re-tipping, as Chuck stated. They make it much easier to finish the tip to final diameter without having to get near the ferrule. Whether they feel different or not is up to the user.
All the best,
WW
Agree with Chuck Fields, they may or may not give you a preferred hit, depending on your preference, and may or may not be needed, depending on what's underneath your ferrule, for LD shafts.
I happen to like them for re-tipping, as Chuck stated. They make it much easier to finish the tip to final diameter without having to get near the ferrule. Whether they feel different or not is up to the user.
All the best,
WW