Playing with a new shaft size

jokrswylde

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I recently got a Pro + LD shaft from Pechauer. Since this was my first LD foray, I decided to go with a 30" 12.5mm...which is 1 inch and .5mm smaller than all my other shafts. Which of those factors do ya'll think contributes to the feel of a shaft most? I am not sure if it is the LD, extra length, or smaller diameter, but I love the way this shaft is playing.

I don't use a ton of english, spinning the ball all over the table, so the LD properties have never been that important to me. I feel like the extra length, which allows my bridge to be more natural on a lot of shots, is most responsible for the playabiltiy of this shaft. It really feels more like this shaft was designed for my game.

Now I am wondering if having my maple shafts turned down to 12.5mm would make a significant difference?

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I recently got a Pro + LD shaft from Pechauer. Since this was my first LD foray, I decided to go with a 30" 12.5mm...which is 1 inch and .5mm smaller than all my other shafts. Which of those factors do ya'll think contributes to the feel of a shaft most? I am not sure if it is the LD, extra length, or smaller diameter, but I love the way this shaft is playing.

I don't use a ton of english, spinning the ball all over the table, so the LD properties have never been that important to me. I feel like the extra length, which allows my bridge to be more natural on a lot of shots, is most responsible for the playabiltiy of this shaft. It really feels more like this shaft was designed for my game.

Now I am wondering if having my maple shafts turned down to 12.5mm would make a significant difference?

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Length, for me... unless I was going from say, 12.5 down to 11. Then it would be a tossup.
 
Up to you.

Shaft diameter and taper is a very personal thing and it is up to you to decide. My two Diveney Lake Salvage shafts are 12.5mm and the shaft is the same 12.5mm diameter for the first 18 inches.

A few months ago I had Diveney cues make me up a 30" Kiel wood shaft with a 12.65mm diameter and same taper, it feels "perfect to me". Now the 12.5mm still feels good and a 12.75mm feels to big, except on my break shaft.

How much English, draw, etc. one gets out of their shaft will be determined by their skill level. Pros are all over the board, from 11.25mm to 13mm, but it works for them.

I know this, once we take it off we can't put it back on!
 
I recently got a Pro + LD shaft from Pechauer. Since this was my first LD foray, I decided to go with a 30" 12.5mm...which is 1 inch and .5mm smaller than all my other shafts. Which of those factors do ya'll think contributes to the feel of a shaft most?

1" longer will make the shaft less stiff
1" shorter will make the shaft stiffer (effectively.)
0.5mm smaller will make the shaft less stiff.

So if the shaft is shorter in length and smaller in diameter, those two effects will largely cancel each other out.

But if the shaft is longer and smaller in diameter, both of these will accentuate whatever you are feeling from the shaft.
 
1" longer will make the shaft less stiff
1" shorter will make the shaft stiffer (effectively.)
0.5mm smaller will make the shaft less stiff.

So if the shaft is shorter in length and smaller in diameter, those two effects will largely cancel each other out.

But if the shaft is longer and smaller in diameter, both of these will accentuate whatever you are feeling from the shaft.
I thought the shaft taper was started at the tip. If a cue maker uses a 12 - 15 inch taper, it shouldn't matter how long the shaft is, it goes back 12-15 inches whether the shaft is 25" or 35". Of course I could be wrong!
 
I played with a 13mm shaft for decades. I test hit an 11.8mm and that felt like a pencil and I did not like it at all.

When I switched to 12.4mm it didn’t feel like a pencil it was different but not bad. I played with that for about two years. I now feel like it is something more delicate. Something that suits to more of a finesse, pocket speed, minimal cueball movement style of play. That happens to be where I’m trying to take my game.

That feeling makes me really want to test hit 11.8mm some more to see if it wouldn’t be as foreign this time and continue that finesse trajectory.

Now when I pick up a 13mm shaft, it feels like I’m stroking a tree trunk. It feels like an instrument of blunt impact.


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I thought the shaft taper was started at the tip. If a cue maker uses a 12 - 15 inch taper, it shouldn't matter how long the shaft is, it goes back 12-15 inches whether the shaft is 25" or 35". Of course I could be wrong!

Note: I said nothing about taper, just lengths and diameters.

About shaft stiffness;

Deformation α m * l**3 / ( d**4 )

α means proportional to but think of it like and = sign.

stiffness = 1/deformation
m = modulus -- an inherent property of the material--in this case wood[maple]
l = length -- as the length increase, deformation increases with the 3rd power (cubic)
d = diameter -- as the diameter increases deformation is reduced by the 4th power (quartic)

Since the shaft is not of equal diameter its entire length, on can compute the stiffness by integration of al the little pieces in the shaft. Assuming the length is fixed and so is the modulus::

Deformation α m*l**3 / ∫{(length=0 though l) d[l]**4/dl}
 
Note: I said nothing about taper, just lengths and diameters.

About shaft stiffness;

Deformation α m * l**3 / ( d**4 )

α means proportional to but think of it like and = sign.

stiffness = 1/deformation
m = modulus -- an inherent property of the material--in this case wood[maple]
l = length -- as the length increase, deformation increases with the 3rd power (cubic)
d = diameter -- as the diameter increases deformation is reduced by the 4th power (quartic)

Since the shaft is not of equal diameter its entire length, on can compute the stiffness by integration of al the little pieces in the shaft. Assuming the length is fixed and so is the modulus::

Deformation α m*l**3 / ∫{(length=0 though l) d[l]**4/dl}

Would the modulus of elasticity formulas work on a LD shaft made of 12 sections glued together?
 
I thought the shaft taper was started at the tip. If a cue maker uses a 12 - 15 inch taper, it shouldn't matter how long the shaft is, it goes back 12-15 inches whether the shaft is 25" or 35". Of course I could be wrong!
I think the lengths of two shafts with the same taper (think of adding/removing an inch at the joint) can make a technical difference in flexibility, but it would be undiscernible to the player. Any flexibility change from changing the tip size and/or taper would far overwhelm it.

pj
chgo
 
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