9 ball Spot Equivalents

I do this with a friend in 10 ball:

We play by-the-game, no sets etc....winner break. It's real cheap.....


I give him first break and 7-out.
If he wins that game, spot is adjusted to 8-out.
If he wins that game spot is last 2.
If he wins that game we play even until he loses a game.

After he loses a game the spot starts over at 7-out.
If I win that game, he gets 6-out.
If i win that game he gets 5-out...... etc..... etc....

Once I lose a game the spot ball spot goes up.....

Works very well and keeps the game even.

Hardest part is determining the starting point.

If it's truly a friendly match for cheap it shouldn't matter if you have to give up the nuts at first until the fair spot is found with adjustment.

Also, you mentioned that you didn't want the sets to get to long....... another reason to do the above.

Btw, what is the usual score in the races to 5 when giving him the 6/break?

Rake

Most days we wind up having sets of 5 to 3 in both directions or hill hill.
 
Another way to say what Bob is describing here is just move up or down using the matchups in chart R6 here. You can choose a different match chart if you prefer longer or shorter races.

We got the ideas for these match charts from things Bob used to do for the NPL (National Pool league) as long as a couple decades ago

Mike,
I'm not quite sure I understand the use of this chart. Do I have to go into the Fargo Rate web site to be able to figure this out? I have an established Fargo rating, but he does not. Will that make a difference?
 
Mike,
I'm not quite sure I understand the use of this chart. Do I have to go into the Fargo Rate web site to be able to figure this out? I have an established Fargo rating, but he does not. Will that make a difference?

The description here wasn't the conventional use of the chart. Bob was just listing a series of similar-length races that are lopsided by various degrees.

The usual use of the chart is to input two ratings and find the recommended handicapped race of a given length and desired handicap level.

HOT: Awards as much weight to lower-rated player as it can without actually awarding an advantage. This is the most handicapped

MEDIUM: Award as much weight as possible without lower-rated player going over 40% chance of winning match.

MILD: ....30% chance of winning match
 
Forgive a noob like me. But if he gives his opponent 6 ball , that means in a full rack, he has to pot 9 balls while his opponent has to shoot 6.
So pari passu, if I do direct conversion , isn't that same as him having to win 9 games and his opponent has to win 6. i.e. ratio of 3 to 2.
If it is race to 6 that equates to 6 -4.
What am I missing ? :smile:

growth-mindset-posters-2-638.jpg
 
Forgive a noob like me. But if he gives his opponent 6 ball , that means in a full rack, he has to pot 9 balls while his opponent has to shoot 6.
...
It doesn't seem to work quite that way. First, between two weak players a wild-ball spot, such as the 8, is a huge spot, much larger than 9-8 "on the wire". Think of two weak players each taking a few shots at the 7 ball before moving on to the 8 ball. For players who will nearly always run out from a good shot on the 5, the 8 ball is not as much of a spot.
 
Depending on how the other player breaks, the break might not be an advantage for him.

It keeps the better player from breaking and running out so it helps. If I'm on and running out 15 to 20% of the time on my break , that alone covers a couple game spot.

If you are selling a game to somebody weaker...breaks with or without ball in hand can close the deal.
 
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