Picked up both of mine (A scale and D scale) at machine shop auctions long before getting back into cues. Bought mostly because they were cheap/no one else bidding and "might come in useful sometime". I did have the purpose at the time of using them when making or testing urethane feed rolls and wheels for woodworking machinery.
If you just want to compare tips among the ones you use, a cheap one should be fine for comparison ("A is softer than B but harder than C"). You will get different readings depending whether on the glue side or face side, and whether the tip is flat or already slightly domed. You can calibrate it in small ranges by testing know hardness surfaces and correct readings of unknown materials accordingly.
If you want to check compared to published numbers, i guess you need a durometer that is calibrated over its complete range to a known standard = $$$$.
There isn't much in a durometer, but the market is so small they can keep the prices up, apparently. If you were a handy sort, it might be possible to rig up a cheap short range dial indicator with a set of ground points in a fixture, possibly with an auxilliary spring, and calibrate it yourself. A durometer is a needle with a spring behind it to penetrate a soft material, and a clock face indicator calibrated to turn the depth of penetration into a durometer number compared to a master scale, probably at the US Bureau of Standards.
A convenience of a commercial unit is the re-settable recording needle in the dial that shows the highest attained reading in any one test.
As others have noted, knowing a number may or may not be useful when it comes to playability of given brands of leather cue tips.
smt