Pro players still using wood shafts

[Geosnooker]

It’’s almost impossible to isolate a single variable on a cue and translate it to performance.

Cue material, tip diameter, tip type, table conditions, experience...etc.

In a conversation between Steve Hendry and O’sullivan, each claim to have only used 4 cues over the decades. And snooker players, when possible, will change the tip once a year and that’s a month or so before the season to break it in.

The point being...you can’t just pick up a cue or put a new tip and ‘judge’ it after A few
Sessions at the table. It’s like a baseball glove...Needs to almost be part of our body.

I tried a CF cue. I couldn’t get the performance. However I haven’t play with it for 13 years as I have my 9.5 mm wooden Snooker cue. With my snooker cue I can get enough spin to pot an American pool ball 3” past a side pocket...with The CF cue I could barely pot a straight in 7’ shot. This difference is likely little to do with the composition of the CF cue..l just haven’t used it for 13 years.

Bottom line. Get a cue and tip type and stick with it For a decade. Don’t cue and tip hop. Wood or CF no real way of comparing.

 

[garczar]

It’’s almost impossible to isolate a single variable on a cue and translate it to performance.

Cue material, tip diameter, tip type, table conditions, experience...etc.

In a conversation between Steve Hendry and O’sullivan, each claim to have only used 4 cues over the decades. And snooker players, when possible, will change the tip once a year and that’s a month or so before the season to break it in.

The point being...you can’t just pick up a cue or put a new tip and ‘judge’ it after A few
Sessions at the table. It’s like a baseball glove...Needs to almost be part of our body.

I tried a CF cue. I couldn’t get the performance. However I haven’t play with it for 13 years as I have my 9.5 mm wooden Snooker cue. With my snooker cue I can get enough spin to pot an American pool ball 3” past a side pocket...with The CF cue I could barely pot a straight in 7’ shot. This difference is likely little to do with the composition of the CF cue..l just haven’t used it for 13 years.

Bottom line. Get a cue and tip type and stick with it For a decade. Don’t cue and tip hop. Wood or CF no real way of comparing.

O'Sullivan said that he's been known to change tips up to FIFTEEN times a tournament. If it feels a little funky he'll lop it off and get another.

 

[fastone371]

Matt, having played and beat 1/2 of the pros in match play till the 90's is this.

I'm able to get ALLOT more spin transfer to the obj. ball AND waaaaaaaaay more spin on the cue ball than I ever did with the best maple shafts during my prime years.

I appreciate your comments.

Why do you suppose you get more cue ball spin with carbon fiber??? If they both have comparable tips and equal diameter whats causing the increased spin??

 

[MattPoland]

Matt, having played and beat 1/2 of the pros in match play till the 90's is this.

I'm able to get ALLOT more spin transfer to the obj. ball AND waaaaaaaaay more spin on the cue ball than I ever did with the best maple shafts during my prime years.

I appreciate your comments.

That’s great.

But I don’t think matches are won by getting the MOST spin on the ball. I think matches are won through control and simplicity and I’m sure you already know that.

I own a Revo. I’ve used it exclusively for a few years now. I love it and don’t need to be sold on it. But I really put no stock in getting whizbang results out of it. I put a lot more value on “staying out of trouble” vs. “getting out of trouble”.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Bavafongoul]

Deflection Ain’t So Bad As The Legendary Greats Would Attest.

On a different thread about OB’s CF shafts, I posted that I’ve been playing with original maple shafts
for six decades and switching to CF just doesn’t make any sense for someone like myself. However,
I noted that for pros and players under 40, it is probably a different proposition. 40 yrs.old was just a
random age I used. My point was there’s a point where the effort it requires to change, to improve, isn’t
worth the effort. IMO, the only advantage CF shafts have is less defection & that’s not important for me.
I do not have any issues with defection which always varies with the speed of the cue ball, the distance
it travels and the type and condition of the cloth. Defection is a strength when you learn how to master it.

 

[Island Drive]

Why do you suppose you get more cue ball spin with carbon fiber??? If they both have comparable tips and equal diameter whats causing the increased spin??

No cue ball squirt....no shaft flexing/no give with ld's.

This allows me to ''walk up to the shot'' the same, and NOT have to allow for cue ball squirt.

The give/flexing of a maple shaft as I add more swing speed, makes me walk up and set my stance ''slightly'' different on all cut shots, along with my thought process on position play.

 

[Geosnooker]

O'Sullivan said that he's been known to change tips up to FIFTEEN times a tournament. If it feels a little funky he'll lop it off and get another.

He uses he same type, gets it right then sticks with it.

 

[TATE]

Anybody know why Justnum was banned? NPR collateral damage?

 

[Island Drive]

Anybody know why Justnum was banned? NPR collateral damage?

''Negative waves"

Donald Sutherland.

 

[Island Drive]

That’s great.

But I don’t think matches are won by getting the MOST spin on the ball. I think matches are won through control and simplicity and I’m sure you already know that.

I own a Revo. I’ve used it exclusively for a few years now. I love it and don’t need to be sold on it. But I really put no stock in getting whizbang results out of it. I put a lot more value on “staying out of trouble” vs. “getting out of trouble”.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

A good example of Whizbang....is this.

Shooting a spot shot.

I'm able to hit the object ball ALLOT....Fuller....above the true contact point if you were straight in[/B], because the cue ball spin transfer to the obj. ball (I personally call it gearing) is Much greater.

Now, I'm able to draw the cue ball to the long rail and back out, allot easier.... at least 1.5 diamonds up from the corner pocket.

Often your not able to go forward with whitey because of other balls interfering with cue ball direction, this gives shooter another option.

Years ago all maple shafts were Minimum 13mm and many 13.5 and 14mm, allowing a stiffer shaft and more spin transfer and Less Cue Ball Squirt.

 

[straightline]

Matt, having played and beat 1/2 of the pros in match play till the 90's is this.

I'm able to get ALLOT more spin transfer to the obj. ball AND waaaaaaaaay more spin on the cue ball than I ever did with the best maple shafts during my prime years.

I appreciate your comments.

I'm inclined to think you can hit firmer without compromising object ball accuracy but that is the only reason for more spin. Along the same lines, the couple LDs I've tried refuse to make those acute (beyond - beneath? 90 degree) frozen ball shots.

 

[MattPoland]

A good example of Whizbang....is this.

Shooting a spot shot.

I'm able to hit the object ball ALLOT....Fuller....above the true contact point if you were straight in[/B], because the cue ball spin transfer to the obj. ball (I personally call it gearing) is Much greater.

Now, I'm able to draw the cue ball to the long rail and back out, allot easier.... at least 1.5 diamonds up from the corner pocket.

Often your not able to go forward with whitey because of other balls interfering with cue ball direction, this gives shooter another option.

Years ago all maple shafts were Minimum 13mm and many 13.5 and 14mm, allowing a stiffer shaft and more spin transfer and Less Cue Ball Squirt.

Interesting. Is this what you’re saying you can do?

Let me know if I have the shot setup wrong. I’ll record some videos of me trying the shot with my 12.4mm CF Revo and some attempts with an off brand 13mm maple shaft. I’ll see if I can replicate that result with one, the other, or both.

What speed are you hitting it? Firm, medium or soft? I figure a firm hit will carry the action to the OB whereas a softer hit will throw the object ball more. So it’ll save me time knowing which you use to execute the shot.

It’ll take me a few weeks to attempt it because my basement flooded recently. Everything is being restored but I have a lot of junk on my table at the moment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Island Drive]

Interesting. Is this what you’re saying you can do?

Let me know if I have the shot setup wrong. I’ll record some videos of me trying the shot with my 12.4mm CF Revo and some attempts with an off brand 13mm maple shaft. I’ll see if I can replicate that result with one, the other, or both.

What speed are you hitting it? Firm, medium or soft? I figure a firm hit will carry the action to the OB whereas a softer hit will throw the object ball more. So it’ll save me time knowing which you use to execute the shot.

It’ll take me a few weeks to attempt it because my basement flooded recently. Everything is being restored but I have a lot of junk on my table at the moment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Cue ball just off the long rail with bridge hand comfortably on top of the rail.

The shot I'm seeing in your thread is not possible.

 

[Island Drive]

I'm inclined to think you can hit firmer without compromising object ball accuracy but that is the only reason for more spin. Along the same lines, the couple LDs I've tried refuse to make those acute (beyond - beneath? 90 degree) frozen ball shots.

You can hit the object ball Thicker, thus lessening the cut angle of the obj. ball.

Your able to contact the obj. ball above the true contact, this makes your shot easier, it's a feel you'll begin to visualize/feel when you walk up to the shot and address the cue ball.

You have too have a good swing speed and apply allot of draw and outside spin, to do this type of shot.

It's a shot that requires the player to have Great Swing mechanics, and their body weight coming into the shot must be like Rempe's stance, or Cardones', or Ethers or Earls or any of the greats.

Some pros, when they step into their difficult cut shots, you just know/feel they are gonna make it.

 

[straightline]

You can hit the object ball Thicker, thus lessening the cut angle of the obj. ball.

Your able to contact the obj. ball above the true contact, this makes your shot easier, it's a feel you'll begin to visualize/feel when you walk up to the shot and address the cue ball.

You have too have a good swing speed and apply allot of draw and outside spin, to do this type of shot.

It's a shot that requires the player to have Great Swing mechanics, and their body weight coming into the shot must be like Rempe's stance, or Cardones', or Ethers or Earls or any of the greats.

Some pros, when they step into their difficult cut shots, you just know/feel they are gonna make it.

I've seen you shoot. I know you know what you're talking about but I don't understand the terminology.
"Above" the true contact point means flatter as in spinning the object ball in?

I haven't seen Billy I play but those other guys have pretty linear strokes; especially Keith strangely enough. Correct me if I'm mistaken but you on the other hand swing like nobody else I can think of; a kind of sweep from outside before coming into line.
I can't correlate that image with the first statement. Please elaborate.

 

[Island Drive]

I've seen you shoot. I know you know what you're talking about but I don't understand the terminology.
"Above" the true contact point means flatter as in spinning the object ball in?

I haven't seen Billy I play but those other guys have pretty linear strokes; especially Keith strangely enough. Correct me if I'm mistaken but you on the other hand swing like nobody else I can think of; a kind of sweep from outside before coming into line.
I can't correlate that image with the first statement. Please elaborate.

Your hitting the object ball, fatter, fuller (not flatter) above the contact point. allowing the shooter to CUT the obj. ball less and still make the shot.

If you had BIH and set the cue ball directly in line with the obj ball, that's the true contact point.

But on a cut shot, with a spinning cue ball, especially using a horizontal plane 9 o'clock cue ball cutting it to the right, or a horizontal plane 3 o'clock spinning cue ball cutting it too the left, the obj. ball must be hit fatter/thicker.

If you hit the obj. ball with a spinning cue ball it will overcut it if you hit the same contact point, like a straight in shot.

Also, speed of the cue ball with spin will definitely vary the amount of spin transfer to the obj. ball.

Dirty humid balls also allow the shooter to increase spin transfer to the obj. ball.

Your under cutting the same contact point (hitting obj. ball more full) due to the Grabbing/less slickness of the two balls.

Pros nowadays, will often ask the ref to clean the cue ball for different reasons, but the won't let em clean the obj. balls during match play.

I flunked English in HS so, I know what I'm trying to say but have to edit many times to get it right, I find it much easier to explain when I'm at the table.

 

[MattPoland]

Cue ball just off the long rail with bridge hand comfortably on top of the rail.



The shot I'm seeing in your thread is not possible.

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like your describing similar action to a 9-ball cut break...except as a spot shot.

Is this more like what you’re describing?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[jalapus logan]

First off I do not understand what a Fargo Rating is, to me a Pro is making their entire living off pool, playing. hustling, tree hong, and live a good life. Or working a job like fill in the blank, and Pool is were they make over 51% of income.

Pro, and Instructor get free Cue, Chalk, Tip, Shafy, some even get paid to endorse and use.

Skill is what they are good at pool, not tools, they like Moscini would be great with house Cue, Willard, sandpaper, and chalk. That about all you need plus skill.

Dude, tree hong is a good living right there.

 

[straightline]

Your hitting the object ball, fatter, fuller (not flatter) above the contact point. allowing the shooter to cue the obj. ball less and still make the shot.

If you had BIH and set the cue ball directly in line with the obj ball, that's the true contact point.

But on a cut shot, with a spinning cue ball, especially using a horizontal plane 9 o'clock cue ball cutting it to the right, or a horizontal plane 3 o'clock spinning cue ball cutting it too the left, the obj. ball must be hit fatter/thicker.

If you hit the obj. ball with a spinning cue ball it will overcut it if you hit the same contact point, like a straight in shot.

Also, speed of the cue ball with spin will definitely vary the amount of spin transfer to the obj. ball.

Dirty humid balls also allow the shooter to increase spin transfer to the obj. ball.

Your under cutting the same contact point (hitting obj. ball more full) due to the Grabbing/less slickness of the two balls.

Pros nowadays, will often ask the ref to clean the cue ball for different reasons, but the won't let em clean the obj. balls during match play.

I flunked English in HS so, I know what I'm trying to say but have to edit many times to get it right, I find it much easier to explain when I'm at the table.

Ok I get it now. Got mixed up because I use BHE which is less about aiming than it is auto compensation. IOW if I used my normal BHE with an LD shaft, I'd overcut everything, correct?

 

[Island Drive]

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like your describing similar action to a 9-ball cut break...except as a spot shot.

Is this more like what you’re describing?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yes.......

I've heard the term BHE....but I'll need clarification of it's meaning.