I Need Advice on Antique Table
- Thread starter BeerBrewer
- Start date
The rail width makes a difference, the bridge hand can be placed approx. 2 in. further away from a frozen CB on a modern commercial as opposed to the old narrow rail BBCs, and probably in excess of that on a Diamond (7 inch or so rail?), therefore the backswing will need at least 2 more inches of room on the modern commercial. I grew up on the old BBCs and it was a big relief for me to go to the wide rail commercial like the Anniversary and GC. I was never a great player, but this advancement allowed me to bridge a bit further away from the CB for better aim and more power options when dealing with frozen CBs, but the downside of allowing for more backswing on the stroke you need a little more room.
You hand's mechanical idiosyncrasies dont actually have bearing on the matter.
Where are you located? I know of a 1880's era Brunswick Novelty that could use some love in Houston. RB re did the diamonds in ivory for me back in 93? It still has the Pennsylvania grey slates. 4.5 x 9' a the Simonis is nicely folded up with the rest of the table. And it could be had cheep...
Most people lose money on the buy/sell of tables. And that's without restoration time and costs. A purist on a historic table should want to use normal sized pool cues. My theory is tables are cheap because most homes don't accommodate them for normal play, especially 9 footers.
We picked our floor plan in anticipation of a 9 footer, most folks don't have that option. That's why you see tables in garages, basements, and out buildings. Some are still tight in basements. Parts can be very pricey and hard to find. Depending on the completeness and condition of table parts...restoration can be a lot more than you think. "Wood working" is just one part of it. Nor do you want an old classic to become a frankentable only playable with short cues. Think you'd lose the romance of it all.
Set outside under a leaky tarp for a year? That seems criminal.
We picked our floor plan in anticipation of a 9 footer, most folks don't have that option. That's why you see tables in garages, basements, and out buildings. Some are still tight in basements. Parts can be very pricey and hard to find. Depending on the completeness and condition of table parts...restoration can be a lot more than you think. "Wood working" is just one part of it. Nor do you want an old classic to become a frankentable only playable with short cues. Think you'd lose the romance of it all.
Set outside under a leaky tarp for a year? That seems criminal.
BeerBrewer
Member
I live in New York State out on Long Island, about 50 miles east of NYC. So Houston is tad far for me to go to pick up a table.
I realize that it may be a tad tight on either end of the pool table, but 18 ft is all the space I have. The table is free, if it becomes an issue, I'll investigate my options then. Right now I just have to pick it and get it home. My plan is assemble it in my work shop as it is now, just to see if anything is missing, broken, warped or rotted. Then I'll better be able to evaluate its condition, so I can decide what to do with it.
I really appreciate all of your input.
Dan_B... What do you mean with by " ..umm, 52" on felt is the only thing that I see as an issue."?
I realize that it may be a tad tight on either end of the pool table, but 18 ft is all the space I have. The table is free, if it becomes an issue, I'll investigate my options then. Right now I just have to pick it and get it home. My plan is assemble it in my work shop as it is now, just to see if anything is missing, broken, warped or rotted. Then I'll better be able to evaluate its condition, so I can decide what to do with it.
I really appreciate all of your input.
Dan_B... What do you mean with by " ..umm, 52" on felt is the only thing that I see as an issue."?
It has all to do with where the hands and fingers can be placed. The further out the bridge can be made away from the CB, the more room you need due to a potential increase in stroke distance. It was the whole idea behind the increased rail widths years ago. No biggie that we seem to be at odds on this, have a good one.
I’m with you man! A free 1920s semi-jumbo BBC with 1-1/2” slate. I wish I were closer, I’d go help you pick it up. Who cares if .2% of shots will have to be executed with elevated butt. Heck, that’ll be good training anyway.
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Lol. You know the reason table manufactures increased rail widths. I say it was because cigarettes became longer.
Please read this thread, let us know which poster you most resemble in this thread?
Ball cleaner project
Hi all, new here and thought I'd share the ball cleaner I made in my workshop recently. Mostly similar to diamond, proven product so no sense re inventing. I did buy a diamond carpet kit but otherwise made or sourced parts myself. I didn't want a black box in the game room so used walnut...
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Point remains: ball on side rail, one needs cue length + backstroke length to be accommodated by room size to enable play without obstruction or equipment change. If you are bridging with only extended fingers touching the rail...that is a personal choice and I seriously doubt you'll find evidence of many accomplished players bridging like that. Translation: adds no value and is actually likely detrimental to the given shot when compared to use of conventional hand placement.
It is not that often that you will have the cue ball on the rail and also be shooting with the wall directly behind you. Usually there will be angle and you will use your regular cue. Get your feet wet with this table then you can change later if needed.
BeerBrewer
Member
I picked up most of the table today, except 3 of the legs and 3 slate tops. OMG its in rough shape, but no real rot. it will need some veneer work. There also seems to be a couple broken support pieces, Oddly enough the cushions seem perfect,.
w e l l ,relax, nothing major, kind of...
1st, just a pet peeve for some, it's cloth not felt. Caught the movie last night "It happened on 5th avenue", they had a billiard in home room scene where they were knocking some balls around, it felt like they were actually playing on felt, decent stroke maybe went 2 lengths.
The dimension's? ...playing the game with some sass, getting a grove going ain't going to happen with a 52" cue --- fun and giggles? most likely.
Occasionally needing a short cue? I suppose,
I have one side at 59 3/4", the wall gets a bump occasionally with a practice stroke, it bothers me just watching, most of the games are serious among friends having chump change on the line, especially if it's a shot one must take from a previous planned safety/defensive move.
If you're looking for conformation that taking this project on in a serious fashion is big? you got it.
maybe having accomplished a beautiful restoration is enough - - - the room accommodating the game? maybe not.
Post pics as you get into it.
Despite my admonitions it is always interesting to see what other serious people can accomplish with a little perseverance.
smt
BeerBrewer
Member
I found this pic on the internet. This appears to the exact same Billiard table as the one I just picked up. My table is oak and I think that its white oak but I can't tell for sure because it is SO dirty and wet. It was literally frozen with ice on it when I picked itt up. My table has the same two vertical panels with the ribs in it, near the back corners just like this one. Initially I thought these two panels were a thin plywood, but on closer examination I can see that they are thinly cut (1/4" of less) oak. The table below was auctioned off for $351 on this web page (https://www.blackrockgalleries.com/...ions-9-foot-billiard-table-ca-1910-52848.html). They claimed that the table below was made around 1910. Is the 1910 estimate even remotely accurate? The owner thought the table was from the 1920's, possibly early 1930s. Not that it really matters, but it would be nice to know its approximate age. Does anyone know what model this is? Thoughts?
I also attached a few pics of the pieces of the pool table below.
I also attached a few pics of the pieces of the pool table below.
BeerBrewer
Member
For some reason, the actual pics of the table won't post.
Call here for help/info: https://www.billiardrestoration.com/antique-pool-tables.htm Talk to Derrick.
Sure they will:
A great explanation on how to post images
Steve Booth over at Onepocket.org put together a nice little video explaining how to post images to the forums. Hopefully it will answer some of the questions that new users have... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eISEZd-7NOc&feature=youtu.be And when you are done here on AzB, check out his...
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I had this table for about 8 years at my previous house. I was lucky buying it because it came with a Brunswick logo chrome body Dirt Devil vacuum and a copper light. The (ugly) light turned out to be made by a semi-famous Chicago artist and the vac was very collectible. After selling those items the table was free and I had a few hundred left for moving costs.
That said, in my experience those old tables look cool and play well enough for most people but they have a basic design disadvantage and will never play as well as any Gold Crown or Diamond. Mine had a few minor veneer issues that I did very basic repairs on. It looked like a million bucks from 20 feet away but they are really not worth doing a full blown restoration on. I sold it when I moved 14 years ago and have no interest in going the "antique" route again.
That said, in my experience those old tables look cool and play well enough for most people but they have a basic design disadvantage and will never play as well as any Gold Crown or Diamond. Mine had a few minor veneer issues that I did very basic repairs on. It looked like a million bucks from 20 feet away but they are really not worth doing a full blown restoration on. I sold it when I moved 14 years ago and have no interest in going the "antique" route again.
Is that flaw you speak of how the rails bolt on?