Best Recovering Method for an Amateur?

You are correct. The marking represents a reference line, which allows you to pull the cloth straight.

Additionally, you never want to stretch a cloth to its maximum ability. Going a little lighter on the width, and heavier on the length allows for less stretch shadows. Though you still want to mark the ends, to ensure that the cloth is pulled straight along the ends of the table. I don't believe the Simonis videos show that. I stretch Simonis 860HR 1 5/8" across the width (on a Gold Crown), which allows me to go heavier on the length stretch, leaving no stretch shadows.

Just a side note: if this were a cloth like Championship Tour Edition, I wouldn't have any concerns. That cloth has a much higher stretch, and is MUCH easier to install. I can tell, simply by the numbers, that this one will be difficult.

Having not previously installed cloth before, I can imagine that you will struggle with the nuances. Many experienced installers complain that Simonis 860HR is difficult to install. Knowing the recommended stretch, this cloth will be more difficult to install. Not having prior experience, you won't know the tricks of the trade, which make it all work. Unfortunately, "feel" is difficult to teach. What I mean by that: when I pull a cloth across a table, I can feel how far that it needs to be stretched, in which directions, and what is going to yield a good looking install. I can also feel how much slack I need to close the pockets, and where to pull the cloth, if I leave too much slack. However, that feel came from years of installing cloth.

Not trying to discourage you, by any means.. Only offering advice, from my own experience. I believe that you said that you wanted to do a glue down installation. Though, I might recommend that you staple instead.. This will allow more flexibility, should you make a mistake. I can only imagine that there will be mistakes. And that's OK! Just be realistic with your expectations, and take your time. Worry less about what they recommend for a length stretch, and more about ensuring that it is stretched straight along the ends. You will have a hard time stretching the cloth across the width of the table.. If you attach your first side with the edge of the cloth at the bottom of the slate liner, you will likely be a bit short on cloth across the width. Just another consideration for stapling.
Thanks very much, Geoff.
 
The Gold Crown slate for a 9' table is 57 x 107". The cloth is 109", "relaxed." You're going to stretch it 2 to 2 1/2" in length when installing. I would think it would be fine. If it's a problem, you could use one of those duck-billed Vice Grips, no?

The Gold Crown slate for a 9' table is 57 x 107". The cloth is 109", "relaxed." You're going to stretch it 2 to 2 1/2" in length when installing. I would think it would be fine. If it's a problem, you could use one of those duck-billed Vice Grips, no?
Me not being a table mechanic and all I found my Simonis which is a larger cut to be kinda tough to install on my Gold Crown, Im sure if I had already covered 100 tables it would not have been nearly as difficult, I dont envy the job you are facing, good luck!! Its time for my table to be recovered again, even though I did it the first time and it turned out OK I would rather have a professional do it, but I do not have anyone in my immediate vicinity that will do a better job, I have looked a lot too.
 
even though I did it the first time and it turned out OK I would rather have a professional do it, but I do not have anyone in my immediate vicinity that will do a better job,
This! I had a couple of knuckleheads when mine was set up, and I'd rather live with my own sub-par job than someone else's. Plus, I have the time to do it over and over until it comes out right.

Geoff has a point, stapling might be a better idea for me for the bed, since the rip-up and retry will be less messy, and the installation less anxiety-provoking than what contact cement promises. (I already have a pneumatic stapler and compressor.)
 
This! I had a couple of knuckleheads when mine was set up, and I'd rather live with my own sub-par job than someone else's. Plus, I have the time to do it over and over until it comes out right.

Geoff has a point, stapling might be a better idea for me for the bed, since the rip-up and retry will be less messy, and the installation less anxiety-provoking than what contact cement promises. (I already have a pneumatic stapler and compressor.)
Be careful... That's how I got started in this business, back in 2008.
 
I guess I will staple. What length staples should I use, for bed and rail? I'm uusing a pneumatic stapler that takes T50 staples. Also, I've seen various things, what do you recommend for staple spacing?
 
I agree, especially if it's in a place where humidity exists, that cloth will probably relax enough with humidity that it will slow it down with that stretch.


But they will mostly go away after the second or third r-estretch. ;)
the nylon content is higher and the stretch index LESS. its tricky stuff. he sounds confident, that helps. For all the questions and everyone's time: be sure to show your work.
Good luck.
TFT
 
the nylon content is higher and the stretch index LESS. its tricky stuff. he sounds confident, that helps. For all the questions and everyone's time: be sure to show your work.
Good luck.
TFT
Thanks, Trent. If you could give me some info on the stretch index that would be helpful, as well as any other tips on how to install.

jv
 
Updated with slate size and stretch recommendations:

For comparison, here are the dimensions of CPBA v. Simonis for a 9' table:

SimonisCPBAGold Crown I Slate
Bed Length112"109"107"
Bed Width60"60"57"
Rail Length56"54 3/4"
Rail Width6"6"

Simonis measurements: Simonis Standard Cloth Cutting Guide
CPBA: measured from actual cloth
CPBA stretch index: 1"-1.5" in width and 2"-2.5" in length


CPBA installation comments from the manufacturer:
The bed cloth should be at least 2-3 inches longer than your table slate in both length and width for easier installation. Otherwise, you should go with next size up cloth. Here's the table slate size reference: 7' Pool Table slate: 43" x 83" 8' Pool Table slate: 51" x 95" or 48" x 91" 8' Oversize Pool table slate: 53" x 99" 9' Pool Table slate: 57" x 107" However, there are many other different sizes of slate. If you are not sure what you should be getting, please let us know. Logo Option: If you like our CPBA logo on one of your rail cover, please let us know. Otherwise, all 6 rail cloth will come with plain. CPBA Competition Grade: Top of the line. Made for advanced or Pro players. Generally used in most Tournament games. CPBA cloth has 2 sides and the playing surface feels much smoother. Stretch index: Stretch about 1"-1.5" in width and 2"-2.5" in length will give the best result. UPDATE: All sizes of the cloth have been increased in both length and width starting from Jan, 2020. Now the customers will have more than enough cloth to cover the table and finish the refelt project.
 
50 % right, the staple method shown is correct. the glue down method shown in the manufacturers DVD is not the right way. not here to argue. do your research before you post please.

TFT
Maybe one day we'll have time to talk about the glue down I've done a few so far and turned out fine but maybe I just got off easy. Been 2 years and still no problems. I don't take it as bashing but any more info I take in will just help me learn a bit more. I just do this stiff as favors for a few friends and I have done a few for cash but I'm definitely no expert
 
Maybe one day we'll have time to talk about the glue down I've done a few so far and turned out fine but maybe I just got off easy. Been 2 years and still no problems. I don't take it as bashing but any more info I take in will just help me learn a bit more. I just do this stiff as favors for a few friends and I have done a few for cash but I'm definitely no expert
I'm wondering if the DVDs are worth the expense, given that now I have decided to staple, and I'm only doing one table every five or ten years. :)
If I had an outline of how to mark the cloth, and a sequence for stapling I think I'd be all set for the bed. The rails should be simpler, I would only have to know how much to try to stretch the cloth lengthwise.

Seems like something an expert could lay out in three or four long-ish paragraphs.

Note that the cloth installation is explained and illustrated in the Gold Crown Service Manual, in the GC V manual two pages for the bed, two for the rails. Note also that the Simonis instructions that predate the DVDs are virtually identical to the GC instructions; it is my guess that Brusnwick cloth was made by Simonis, and Simonis supplied that section of the manual that explains covering.

If one amended the written instructions to include marking the cloth according to the stretch index, would that do it?
 
I'm wondering if the DVDs are worth the expense, given that now I have decided to staple, and I'm only doing one table every five or ten years. :)
If I had an outline of how to mark the cloth, and a sequence for stapling I think I'd be all set for the bed. The rails should be simpler, I would only have to know how much to try to stretch the cloth lengthwise.

Seems like something an expert could lay out in three or four long-ish paragraphs.

Note that the cloth installation is explained and illustrated in the Gold Crown Service Manual, in the GC V manual two pages for the bed, two for the rails. Note also that the Simonis instructions that predate the DVDs are virtually identical to the GC instructions; it is my guess that Brusnwick cloth was made by Simonis, and Simonis supplied that section of the manual that explains covering.

If one amended the written instructions to include marking the cloth according to the stretch index, would that do it?
Did you watch the Zach Jonas video? Lay the cloth out like he does, (with the proper measurements for your cloth/table) and that should take care of the index for you. I like to add one more measurement, and mark the index from the edge of the pocket on the long sides so I pull it exactly there.
 
Did you watch the Zach Jonas video? Lay the cloth out like he does, (with the proper measurements for your cloth/table) and that should take care of the index for you. I like to add one more measurement, and mark the index from the edge of the pocket on the long sides so I pull it exactly there.
Thanks.
 
At the end of the day , this guy just wants to know all of our secrets with out paying. Not sharing anything more than I already have. SHADOW CITY!

TFT
 
Oh, please Trent, what are you thinking? I'm going to publish all of your "secrets" and put you out of business or something?

BTW, you haven't really shared anything yet.
 
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Oh, please Trent, what are you thinking? I'm going to publish all of your "secrets" and put you out of business or something?

BTW, you haven't really shared anything yet.
It is clear: every time you post, you are asking us to teach you how to do our jobs. There is a difference between someone who just needs some help and someone who is CHEAP. Just my opinion and you wont be the last one that comes in here and tries to do that. So in essence: you paid some crew very little money to set up your table, you are not happy, bought the CHEAPEST cloth money can buy(and difficult to install) and want everyone to give up their "couple of paragraphs" explaining our processes. I will share one lil secret, WAIT TILL YOU TRY AND COVER THE RAILS!! AHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA. HMMMMMMMMM, its not me, IT'S YOU!


TFT
 
It is clear: every time you post, you are asking us to teach you how to do our jobs. There is a difference between someone who just needs some help and someone who is CHEAP. Just my opinion and you wont be the last one that comes in here and tries to do that. So in essence: you paid some crew very little money to set up your table, you are not happy, bought the CHEAPEST cloth money can buy(and difficult to install) and want everyone to give up their "couple of paragraphs" explaining our processes. I will share one lil secret, WAIT TILL YOU TRY AND COVER THE RAILS!! AHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA. HMMMMMMMMM, its not me, IT'S YOU!


TFT
You're a jerk.
 
I'm wondering if the DVDs are worth the expense, given that now I have decided to staple, and I'm only doing one table every five or ten years. :)
If I had an outline of how to mark the cloth, and a sequence for stapling I think I'd be all set for the bed. The rails should be simpler, I would only have to know how much to try to stretch the cloth lengthwise.

Seems like something an expert could lay out in three or four long-ish paragraphs.

Note that the cloth installation is explained and illustrated in the Gold Crown Service Manual, in the GC V manual two pages for the bed, two for the rails. Note also that the Simonis instructions that predate the DVDs are virtually identical to the GC instructions; it is my guess that Brusnwick cloth was made by Simonis, and Simonis supplied that section of the manual that explains covering.

If one amended the written instructions to include marking the cloth according to the stretch index, would that do it?
For staple spacing, shoot for maybe 1" between staples. Use 1/4" leg staples.

Everything that you are asking for is included in the Simonis DVD's. I would highly recommend them, as they will provide clear and concise visual instruction. As you do the work yourself, you can even watch the instruction again and again, as you will learn more as you begin doing the work yourself. Written word will only take you so far.

When you are finished with the DVD's, you can easily sell them. However, if you don't want to buy the DVD's, Zach Jonas's Youtube videos are a reasonable alternative.

I will correct you here though, and insist that the rails are NOT simpler. In fact, to cover a rail properly requires a lot of experience. It took me maybe a couple of dozen tables to learn the proper techniques and skills to produce a nice, consistent, finished product. There are so many key details that make a huge impact:
The fit of the featherstrips, the length of the featherstrips, the cut angles at the ends of the featherstrips, marking the featherstrips before inserting them.. Also, the tricks that you can use to get the cloth to stay in place with an uneven featherstrip dado.. The tension on the cloth, as you insert the featherstrip.. The direction of pull, as you wrap the cloth under the cushion.. Where to place your first staple.. How to close off the pockets without wrinkles..

There are tricks for all of this, and these aren't even half of the details that produce a nice finished product. It's far more than just a couple of paragraphs.. In fact, there are books already written, which cover all of these things. There are also high quality DVD's which cover a basic set of techniques to produce a consistent finished product. Additionally, there is a ton of free information already available within this sub-forum, which covers all of the information that you are seeking.

I might have to side with Trent on this one... Since I have been the only 'expert' to offer support on your project, I kinda feel as though your sentiments may likely have been directed toward me.. I'm all for helping people.. And I will do so at my own free will... But, when someone acts as though I should be expected to just offer up my time and knowledge (free of charge), it tends to rub me wrong.. Especially if the information is already available in other areas, which require a fee to obtain.. Something that you must understand is that we in this business have spent years learning and honing our craft. We have invested not just time, but also money, in learning the details of this business, and how to continuously improve our skillset.. To freely provide all of this information to those who simply do not want to pay for information that is readily available is an incredible disservice to ourselves.

I am always happy to support, and to offer tips and advice along the way.. However, I will not simply write out a procedure for doing the work.

I wish you all the best, and I hope that your finished product meets your expectations. Though, I respectfully decline to offer any additional information. Despite that, I do hope to see photos of the finished result.. Not because I am hoping for your failure.. Quite the contrary; I hope that it's beautiful.

At this point, the best advice that I can offer: buy the DVD's.
 
For staple spacing, shoot for maybe 1" between staples. Use 1/4" leg staples.

Everything that you are asking for is included in the Simonis DVD's. I would highly recommend them, as they will provide clear and concise visual instruction. As you do the work yourself, you can even watch the instruction again and again, as you will learn more as you begin doing the work yourself. Written word will only take you so far.

When you are finished with the DVD's, you can easily sell them. However, if you don't want to buy the DVD's, Zach Jonas's Youtube videos are a reasonable alternative.

I will correct you here though, and insist that the rails are NOT simpler. In fact, to cover a rail properly requires a lot of experience. It took me maybe a couple of dozen tables to learn the proper techniques and skills to produce a nice, consistent, finished product. There are so many key details that make a huge impact:
The fit of the featherstrips, the length of the featherstrips, the cut angles at the ends of the featherstrips, marking the featherstrips before inserting them.. Also, the tricks that you can use to get the cloth to stay in place with an uneven featherstrip dado.. The tension on the cloth, as you insert the featherstrip.. The direction of pull, as you wrap the cloth under the cushion.. Where to place your first staple.. How to close off the pockets without wrinkles..

There are tricks for all of this, and these aren't even half of the details that produce a nice finished product. It's far more than just a couple of paragraphs.. In fact, there are books already written, which cover all of these things. There are also high quality DVD's which cover a basic set of techniques to produce a consistent finished product. Additionally, there is a ton of free information already available within this sub-forum, which covers all of the information that you are seeking.

I might have to side with Trent on this one... Since I have been the only 'expert' to offer support on your project, I kinda feel as though your sentiments may likely have been directed toward me.. I'm all for helping people.. And I will do so at my own free will... But, when someone acts as though I should be expected to just offer up my time and knowledge (free of charge), it tends to rub me wrong.. Especially if the information is already available in other areas, which require a fee to obtain.. Something that you must understand is that we in this business have spent years learning and honing our craft. We have invested not just time, but also money, in learning the details of this business, and how to continuously improve our skillset.. To freely provide all of this information to those who simply do not want to pay for information that is readily available is an incredible disservice to ourselves.

I am always happy to support, and to offer tips and advice along the way.. However, I will not simply write out a procedure for doing the work.

I wish you all the best, and I hope that your finished product meets your expectations. Though, I respectfully decline to offer any additional information. Despite that, I do hope to see photos of the finished result.. Not because I am hoping for your failure.. Quite the contrary; I hope that it's beautiful.

At this point, the best advice that I can offer: buy the DVD's.
Thanks, Geoff. You have always been, and remain a gentleman. I appreciate all of the information and insight you have provided.
 
bought the CHEAPEST cloth money can buy

First, it's not the cheapest cloth on can buy, but it's certainly much less than Simonis for a comparable worsted wool cloth. It's 80/20 wool/nylon. 860 is 90/10, 760 is 70/30, 860HR is 70/30, for reference.

Read this:
Update!

So far this cloth is a very good product! The cloth is on the 12 Valleys an kickin ass!

Anyone who wants to order some, I will be the new MidWest Distributor for CPBA SOON!

Trent from Toledo

P.s. We just installed it next to another Diamond with brand new Simonis on it, putting it to the real test!!
and this:
Have it on 12 tables in a BUSY Pool Hall since August and the CPBA is very comparable to Simonis 860. Plays fast and has shown to wear the same to! 👍

Trent from Toledo
and this:
I compare it to 860. Color is not the same of course.

Trent
and this:
Testing it on 12 valleys and 2 diamonds right now. I already have mid-west distribution set up with CPBA, we are going to rebrand it as our house brand. Price and Quality are there. Especially for the room owner that is going to replace annually.

Trent from Toledo
 
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