Water Cooled Spindle

Nice set up, thanks for posting for those of us wondering about water cooled spindles!

The 3 wing cutter actually (off the shelf) has one cutter about 3-4 thousand lower than the other 2

You probably know that just using your medium/fine diamond hand hone can fix that in a couple minutes. Or just keep honing the 2 high cutters whenever your touch up sharpness between shafts, until they eventually are all the same. I like light spindle oil for lube. Any light oil works. Olive oil is traditional. :)
(This assumes that the cutter is low, and the hole and spindle are a snug match. Not that the cutter is merely slightly off-center.)

smt
 
Nice set up, thanks for posting for those of us wondering about water cooled spindles!



You probably know that just using your medium/fine diamond hand hone can fix that in a couple minutes. Or just keep honing the 2 high cutters whenever your touch up sharpness between shafts, until they eventually are all the same. I like light spindle oil for lube. Any light oil works. Olive oil is traditional. :)
(This assumes that the cutter is low, and the hole and spindle are a snug match. Not that the cutter is merely slightly off-center.)

smt
I'm really tempted to pick up a Baldor diamond wheeler .
It's got the coolant cups too . Only way to go to stay on the safe side .
 
It's got the coolant cups too . Only way to go to stay on the safe side .

So long as the "evaporative heat sink liquid :) " is continuously applied *before* the edge is hot enough to sizzle.
Otherwise it (shock cooling) is worse for delicate carbide edge than grinding dry.

There's 2 surface grinders here with all the tooling/accessories, and a Cincinnati tool & cutter grinder with similar compliment.
There's more than a dozen diamond wheels many pre-mounted on arbors, to fit all of them, in all sorts of shapes & grit.
For one or 2 small teeth i'd rather hone off the difference with a good diamond hand hone, and would have more control.

One of my occasional tasks is to make thousands of specific material plugs for commercial flooring jobs. (bigger outfits will not guarantee to supply, say red, or white oak, "can be any oak, red, white, or black, & stained material is not cause for reject"; and certainly not a specific cut "we don't make/sort for quartersawn"). On site, it is only practical to drill parallel side holes. So taper plugs cannot be used - otherwise the first time the floor is sanded, they start coming out. If too tight, the floor boards gradually split around the plugs. Getting to the point: the holes and plugs need to be a uniform matching size within a few .001"s. Tooling built over the years keeps the plugs on size. But if the installers chew up a bit and go down to the hardware store to replace it, suddenly the holes are visibly too small or too large. So i buy a quantity of carbide tip forstner bits that i think will see them through the job, and match them to make the same size holes. Straight from the supplier, they sometimes tend to make holes that vary in size up to .010" (not that far from 1/64") One of the problems is that the cutting end is not always concentric with the collet shank. so the bits will even cut different size holes when used in a drill press vs a hand drill motor, as on site. Usually i do this testing at a lathe, with a hand hone to hone off the high spurs & heels. Lathe is not running, it is a solid platform to hold the bit in a collet, and rotate by hand to indicate, and to scrub off material with a hand hone.
 
Used one of them for a while and they are very quiet and smooth running.
The weight is the big factor ... very heavy compared to a Kress router.
My machine seems to handle the extra weight without any issues but I think lighter is better for wear.
Never noticed any heat build up even after an hour of use.
Water pump was a small one from local hardware store.
Went back to Kress routers on both my machines.

Are the air powered spindles still available?
They were expensive but were small and lightweight.
 
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