Negative, the benefit to leagues though is if you have two balls close to the pocket as pictured you can shoot one in on pro cuts once you two balls contact the outside points of the jaw they are stuck and that pocket is frozen. Nothing wrong with that but if you play a lot of 8 ball that extra .25 will allow one to go.
That mistake was made in Los Angeles in lots of pool rooms that put the screws on all pockets making them 4-4.25”. The bangers were playing 2 racks a hour wondering why pool cost $7.50/rack.
Yes for people who can play a little. I agree, for bangers way to tight. For players those are great for all games as a good average size. Maybe a hair tight for 14.1 or banks, maybe a hair big for 1P, good for rotation. Overall that’s the correct size for general purpose tables & for practice drills.
Thats looks to be what i would like. Im no professional but am a decent player. Anyone that would playing in my table would also be decent players and not bangers.
On my table that was in my Vegas house 95% of the players were super strong to pro’s. And 5% were bangers(friends or non-players). So I always kept my set up dialed in for pro’s and it worked out nicely. The 1-20 banger didn’t know the difference and that’s just social pool. No harm-no foul. Man I miss that room. Those who saw know-that’s all I can say. I was too stupid to take pics of it.
To pick a nit: isn't 4 1/2" when two balls jam at the points? This looks more like 4 5/8" or so.
The opening on that CP pocket allows more than 3/4 of the two balls (2 1/4” diameter) to pass between the points.
Sorry, I don't get this. The way I measure pocket width is simply the distance between the pocket points, as below. Your friend's pocket looks to be about 4 1/8" by my measurement.
The pocket reducers need to be cut to allow passage down the rail. For that matter, I wish they would make pockets cut that way available.
Agreed 100%.
Great post! As usual, and I was going to say basically the same thing. I’m out here practicing max length shots with various inside spins to get position back up table on a 3 inch paper circle. If you miss the zone within the pocket, you will miss position, so really in this case the pocket is much smaller anyway.
Ok, you got in my head with this one. Best I can do on my home GC6 TE with 4-1/4” holes is stop it, and even this is super tough and I definitely can’t do it consistently - literally every shot rattles out. Today on a Gandy with 4-5/8” pockets I can make it and draw it all the way back to the base rail, still super hard for me, but can do it. Interesting & great+frustrating stroke drill. What a difference ~0.375” makes... Thx for sharing.
I always thought the draw dropped easier than a stop or a follow on that shot.
maybe just me.
Sorry, I don’t know what that means. Sounds like you play like god & rest of us are chumpsI always thought the draw dropped easier than a stop or a follow on that shot.
Maybe I got no follow. But a draw down rail really hard will rattle and drop with draw and tighter pockets before a follow. as there is more follow on object ball to push it in. Physics my man. It compresses nipple more with more topspin too. Or pushes it out of the way more depending how you see it. W shims maybe not.Sorry, I don’t know what that means. Sounds like you play like god & rest of us are chumps
. I’m talking hitting it hard though. Maybe you all are talking soft to medium stroke.
