Pocket size?

phreaticus

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
You can just take the cue ball set it 1” off the rail and aim for the nipple with different Englishes to see what I’m talking about. The more follow the easier it falls. If you want more follow on an object ball you need to draw it. When you draw off the nipple it can get under the cushion an kick out or get slowed down going in. Why do you use left English on left cuts down rail? Because that gives the object ball follow. Hit it not perfect but good it still falls. Hit it with right English and it doesn’t fall as easy. Essentially hitting a straighter shot with draw down the rail is the same as using English towards the pocket on a hard cut.

Well, all thats really cool man. There are many ways to make many balls. I’m still not sure what you’re on about, but in post #77 @Straightpool_99 described a specific test shot as a calibration metric of sorts regarding pocket sizes, which was the main topic (I thought). I gave his drill a workout - thats all.

None of my business, but perhaps you might want to get out for a run, bike ride or something. Works wonders for me.

Peace & love ✌️
 

Konrad

Your wushu is weak!
Well, all thats really cool man. There are many ways to make many balls. I’m still not sure what you’re on about, but in post #77 @Straightpool_99 described a specific test shot as a calibration metric of sorts regarding pocket sizes, which was the main topic (I thought). I gave his drill a workout - thats all.

None of my business, but perhaps you might want to get out for a run, bike ride or something. Works wonders for me.

Peace & love ✌️
Haha.(I didn’t realize you were OP!!!!!!) I can be a hype. So I felt a need to elaborate cause I’m no God. Don’t bring my guy into this man. Thems fighting words…🥊 🤜 🥊
 
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straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I absolutely agree that going tighter doesn't necessarily result in reaching a higher level of play. I can still practice tough shots all I want. Today was elevated off the end rail / combination shot day at my place. Trust me, nothing is easy when I train.
See but there you go. Small apertures will be mastered by the disciplined. It's all about headroom.
 

Straightpool_99

I see dead balls
Silver Member
I always thought the draw dropped easier than a stop or a follow on that shot. 🤷‍♂️ maybe just me.
I suggested this exercise to the OP, because it works on several levels. It isn't "the ultimate test" of the perfect pocket design or even peak shotmaking ability. Rather, it's a test that takes into account the human factor as well as a certain "minimum" of pocket design. It would be easy enough to make a test that would put a lot of big manufacturers to shame. Getting a pocket absolutely perfect is actually not that easy.

Here are the underlying reasons why I believe the test i proposed is valid to determine how suitable the table is to your skill level. Naturally I should add that all this is contingent on the length of draw being physically possible to make on a diagonal shot into the (open) pocket.

1. Better players will be able to get more action at slower speeds.
2. Better players will have greater accuracy at speed with tip offset.
3. Drawing the ball back that far will ensure that a certain minimum of speed and tip offset is needed. Also, because of the above factors, a great player can get away with less speed on this shot. A follow shot would probably require the cushion coming into play, and that's an extra factor that can influence the outcome and speed needed.
4. My contention is that if you cannot hit the ball along the rail at this speed and some vertical tip offset, and make it relatively comfortably, you cannot make the full range of shots needed to enjoy the game and that should be what owning a home table is all about. You can always add pocket reducers, or use combination shots etc to practise extreme accuracy.
5. If, say, Dennis Orcollo or someone of his ilk can't make this shot consistently on a table or even a lesser pro, then the pocket is absolutely IMO defective and not suited for playing the game on.
 

Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
if you use just the points to measure than you really dont know how wide the pocket is.
But if you use another part of the pocket nobody will understand. It’s commonly measured at the points (and the pocket generally narrows about the same amount at the back).

pj
chgo
 

maha

from way back when
Silver Member
i see that. but i dont understand how you can have a greater than 4.5 inch pocket and two balls dont fit through it.
 

docgpmiller

Member
If you were buying a new 9' table what size pockets would you get? 4.5", 4.25" or 4.125"

Thanks
I think 4.5" is sufficient for most players that are casual and are getting better. At the Club the Gold Crowns were ridiculously open like 5" and 5-3/8" on another. I cut them back to 4.75" just to start getting the guys to slow their game down and start aiming the ball. As they progress over the couple of years I might cut it to 4.5" but most of these guys are seniors so I want to keep it enjoyable for them to stay active and interested.
 

garczar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think 4.5" is sufficient for most players that are casual and are getting better. At the Club the Gold Crowns were ridiculously open like 5" and 5-3/8" on another. I cut them back to 4.75" just to start getting the guys to slow their game down and start aiming the ball. As they progress over the couple of years I might cut it to 4.5" but most of these guys are seniors so I want to keep it enjoyable for them to stay active and interested.
How did you 'cut them back'? Shim them?
 

docgpmiller

Member
How did you 'cut them back'? Shim them?
When we put new Rubber and SubRails on the Tables they were reduced by the installer. He wanted to know if I wanted additional shims to make it 4.5" I said hold it at 4.75" so the Guys could still be able to make the transition from 5-5-3/8" Pockets that they were previously shooting on the Gold Crowns.
 
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