Cornerman mentioned skin and I vaguely recall that being brought up when I first asked. Surely though, a rigidly stroked ball should deflect more than a "properly" stroked one. (?)
keilwood for suckers
- Thread starter whammo57
- Start date
Didn't you hear? He makes custom cues and his own CF shafts. Why would science matter? /S
Only if the skin was so thin and very little flesh under the skin such that when you grip, the bones are actually for all intents and purposes coupled to the butt by using a death grip. Otherwise, once you hit the cueball, the speed of sound down the cuestick would have the force reach your hand during tip contact, and the skin/flesh would give.
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In other words it is a moot point because even people with “bad strokes” would fall inside normal parameters in the regard of stroke/grip rigidness having a deflection impact.
Definition of MUTUALLY EXCLUSIVE
being related such that each excludes or precludes the other; also : incompatible… See the full definition
100% agree, I can't play with headphones on. I have to hear the cue hitting the tip. I personally don't like the dry/fragile sound of newer woods, that's why I prefer older cues with old maple. I would like to try a Kielwood shaft some day though, I heard they hit different.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Kielwood sounds different, but it's a great sound. It's more tonal, kind of a musical quality to it. More similar to older maple instead of those dry light weight jobs that come on cues nowadays. I hate hate hate how some of those light weight shafts sound, new maple just doesn't sound right.
If I could smell my wood shaft, I’d never leave the house…
Amazing. I guess I gotta defer to the engineers.
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So just because you do not understand the technology, does not mean it's a fraud.
- (Maple) No two shafts play exactly the same (lack of consistency).
- The hit or feel based off of the cue makers taper again makes replication difficult (you need the cue makers taper and Maple).
- The point of aim is different than the point of contact (more squirt).
- LD shafts do help the average player shoot straighter.
- Treated shafts may have additional warp resistance.
- They are expensive (sometimes double the cost of a plain Maple).
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do you sell them????
I don’t sell cues. I’m one of the longtime mechanical engineering forum posters who attempt to explain the mechanical physics of billiard-related things. I’ve helped many cue builders on this very subject, including my good friend, the late Royce Bunnell. His shaft designs ended up pretty on point.
If you have questions, please ask. You seem to have missed many in-depth discussions on this subject. Please ask. Or simply read Dr Dave’s well-presented articles on the subject.
100% agree on new stuff, can't stand it. I have friends that buy cues and whenever I try one I hit a few balls and say nice cue but more than likely after the first hit I can't get it out of my hands fast enough. I've been meaning to start a thread in the builders forum about any known ways to "season" a cue, soak it in a chemical, etc. to a get better feel/sound (tonal is how I describe it to friends) out of it, I'm getting ready to build some shafts for a couple of my cues. But I haven't done enough research yet to ask the right questions.
And thanks for the info on the hit, that sounds exactly like what I was looking for, I'll have to buy some now.
Not something you need to worry about. Any changes a shaft MIGHT go thru would be so miniscule you'd never notice it. I live in a state that has BIG humidity swings. Have NEVER noticed ANY differences due to weather/humidity swings.
I guess Dr Dave is a liar too.
