dumping the break cue and feel liberated!!!

anybody else do this?

tried many break cues, never experienced more than a marginal improvement over a given standard cue

feels great to hit a rack and be ready to shoot immediately not to mention one less cue in the bag
I don't think I like this type of freedom: destroying the tip and spending money on repairs.
 
Nobody I know uses a Hercules break. Most of the time hard breaks aren't even necessary. I have a cheap break jump which works better to reduce stroke effort (phenolic tip). Otherwise I've always broke with the player. WB/Elkmaster/Whatever the room uses etc... I use a McLucky to play and break with now.
 
Something to consider is - does a heavier cue and a phenolic (or otherwise rock hard tip) allow for a softer arm speed to obtain the same break speed as a lighter cue with softer tip?

The result would be better control overall because you're not trying to whack the shit out of it?
 
The guy I got my PureX from let some other people break with it and not one person complained, they all loved it - it definitely made a difference. I just couldn't stand the ping. Personal preference.
There are four other players in the room I play in with the pure x.
5 total with me, more than any other singular break cue, and there's probably a good reason for it.

I don't really notice a ping myself but I totally understand a personal preference

Tonight I was showing how off well I did the 10ball break with it lol
compared to the rest that usually scratch or make nothing
Made balls and atleast one after the break 7 out of 9 times, 2 dry breaks
No scratches.

I love the cue , its paid for itself and then some easily.
 
Something to consider is - does a heavier cue and a phenolic (or otherwise rock hard tip) allow for a softer arm speed to obtain the same break speed as a lighter cue with softer tip?

The result would be better control overall because you're not trying to whack the shit out of it?
My take on that is more inertia with the heavier cue. The overlap zone of forces where the cues are stroked would be dependant on the shooter.
 
My take on that is more inertia with the heavier cue. The overlap zone of forces where the cues are stroked would be dependant on the shooter.
Ya I agree with this just on my "felt observations" my playing cues are at are right under 19 oz's. My breaker is around 21.5. I do not hammer the cue ball on break shots, especially 9 ball. Tip placement on the cue ball, aiming right where you want with the object ball in the racks, with a smooth stroke about 50/60% power works fine for me.
 
There are four other players in the room I play in with the pure x.
5 total with me, more than any other singular break cue, and there's probably a good reason for it.

I don't really notice a ping myself but I totally understand a personal preference

Tonight I was showing how off well I did the 10ball break with it lol
compared to the rest that usually scratch or make nothing
Made balls and atleast one after the break 7 out of 9 times, 2 dry breaks
No scratches.

I love the cue , its paid for itself and then some easily.

If you want to practice your 10B break start playing bowlliards. Practicing breaks is boring but playing bowlliards is usually faster than 10B so you get to break more. If you play BIH after the break you can practice any sort of break you want ;)
 
I heard someone do the math about replacing tips more often and at that point, the break cue made sense.
Ding ding! It's not that any playing cue cant be used to break with. It's how fast you want to flatten and mushroom your playing tip. Not as prevalent with a hard tip, but very relevant if you use a soft.

Anyone like breaking with a Kamui Soft? I didnt think so.
 
If you want to practice your 10B break start playing bowlliards. Practicing breaks is boring but playing bowlliards is usually faster than 10B so you get to break more. If you play BIH after the break you can practice any sort of break you want ;)
I'll have a look and see what that is
 
anybody else do this?

tried many break cues, never experienced more than a marginal improvement over a given standard cue

feels great to hit a rack and be ready to shoot immediately not to mention one less cue in the bag

I would not totally get rid of break cues, unless I'm being lazy and playing some fun matches. I have had several cuemakers say it's not a great idea to break with LD shafts due to them having thinner material at the end and therefore are more likely to crack. Another benefit of a break cue is you can use one for jumping when jump cues are not allowed. LD shafts do not jump well at all, and many players use them. Less chance of the playing shaft/tip getting damaged as well, make some miscue hit on the break, have a tip fly off or something and now you don't have a cue to play with unless you have a spare shaft.
 
I'll have a look and see what that is

Here you go, I started a thread about a while back.

 
Mine's 16oz. I used to use my heavy snooker cue (19.5oz) to break off in English pool, but I much prefer the acceleration a lighter cue offers.
You've just made me think, the cue speed arguments for a lighter break cue presumably also apply for cue speed when you hit a regular shot hard...

In these shots, an accurate delivery is arguably even more important than for the break, so maybe biomechanics and what the individual player feels comfortable with have to be top priority.

But the physics can presumably still give you a steer.
 
Something to consider is - does a heavier cue and a phenolic (or otherwise rock hard tip) allow for a softer arm speed to obtain the same break speed as a lighter cue with softer tip?

The result would be better control overall because you're not trying to whack the shit out of it?
I use a Revo shaft at about 19 ounces with a white diamond tip. I can break with just my wrist and a bit of arm motion and make a 3 point compliant break. Although usually I try to use a whip effect of my arm and wrist to generate a bit more power with very little ooomph. I break from the side and draw the cue ball back through the middle of the table. Softer speed sometimes yields two balls into the back corner pocket with the head ball and two balls behind it on the right (opposite from break side) coming up table by the cue ball (at least two of these usually come up table).
 
anybody else do this?

tried many break cues, never experienced more than a marginal improvement over a given standard cue

feels great to hit a rack and be ready to shoot immediately not to mention one less cue in the bag

I think testing has shown the phenolic tip is worth about two miles an hour over leather. That is substantial, but only if you still keep control.

I take traveling light to a greater extreme sometimes. Back in dinosaur days I would put a BRAD tool and a bit of sandpaper or scotchbrite in my watch pocket and be ready to go tilt. I occasionally leave the three by six at home and stroll into a pool hall with just the BRAD tool and sandpaper still. Feels great to walk through the door naked!

Hu
 
Some playing cues break really well but mine does not so I like to use a break cue. I have owned expensive break cues and cheap break cues and I feel that a modern break cue with carbon fiber shaft breaks the best and can be a big benefit to a player that does not have a very good break.
 
There’s a debate about speed of stroke versus weight of the cue used for breaking.
There’s been evaluations but from a pool player’s perspective, the jury is still out.

Some players want the heaviest cue, even a house cue & some prefer a lighter cue.
I have a McDermott Stinger cue; I don’t break any better than when I use a house cue.
IMO, break cues truly matter most when the player already possesses a very good break.

Otherwise, a house cue the same weight as your playing cue will substitute. It’s really all
about the tip used on breaking cues. Rock hard tips transfer the power of your stroke better.
But if you don’t have a strong break to start with, a tip alone will not make up for a weak break.
 
Back
Top