Gold Crown III Questions

rellek

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Can anyone help me out, I have been searching with no luck. I arranged to purchase a GC III and I have been unable to determine what the standard pocket size was from the factory on these tables. The table is coming out of a defunct pool hall in Pittsburgh, and I got to see some pictures but I wasn't given a whole lot of other information. The price was really good so I was willing to take a gamble, any info and advice would be greatly appreciated thanks!
 
Can anyone help me out, I have been searching with no luck. I arranged to purchase a GC III and I have been unable to determine what the standard pocket size was from the factory on these tables. The table is coming out of a defunct pool hall in Pittsburgh, and I got to see some pictures but I wasn't given a whole lot of other information. The price was really good so I was willing to take a gamble, any info and advice would be greatly appreciated thanks!
5" Corners


TFT
 
Can anyone help me out, I have been searching with no luck. I arranged to purchase a GC III and I have been unable to determine what the standard pocket size was from the factory on these tables. The table is coming out of a defunct pool hall in Pittsburgh, and I got to see some pictures but I wasn't given a whole lot of other information. The price was really good so I was willing to take a gamble, any info and advice would be greatly appreciated thanks!
Stock were 5" corners and 5 1/2" side pockets.

I've owned 3 pool rooms with stock GC3's, so I should know.
 
Can anyone help me out, I have been searching with no luck. I arranged to purchase a GC III and I have been unable to determine what the standard pocket size was from the factory on these tables. The table is coming out of a defunct pool hall in Pittsburgh, and I got to see some pictures but I wasn't given a whole lot of other information. The price was really good so I was willing to take a gamble, any info and advice would be greatly appreciated thanks!
p.s. Here is the GC3 Service Manual : if you need help with anything, parts, cloth, cushions or pockets feel free reach out!
Gold_Crown_III_Page_01.jpg
Gold_Crown_III_Page_02.jpg
Gold_Crown_III_Page_03.jpg
Gold_Crown_III_Page_04.jpg
Gold_Crown_III_Page_05.jpg
Gold_Crown_III_Page_06.jpg
Gold_Crown_III_Page_07.jpg
Gold_Crown_III_Page_08.jpg
Gold_Crown_III_Page_09.jpg
Gold_Crown_III_Page_10.jpg
 
Last edited:
Did the Gabe come from mr pockets? There was a lot of tables in those poolrooms in the 90’s I covered many of them
I bough 10 from the PIttsburgh area that came out of a Movie theater balcony that had 18 up there. There was another theater about 30 minutes from there that had 15 more. I am assuming he bought it from the same guy who I purchased the 10 from. Maybe @rellek will chime in and tell us?

TFT
 
I bough 10 from the PIttsburgh area that came out of a Movie theater balcony that had 18 up there. There was another theater about 30 minutes from there that had 15 more. I am assuming he bought it from the same guy who I purchased the 10 from. Maybe @rellek will chime in and tell us?

TFT
Honestly I bought it 3rd hand. I do know that they came from a company in Pittsburgh that buys and sells tables from places that are closing up, but that's about all the details I got. The guy I know went out and got 3 tables from them and I paid him, so I never had any interaction with the actual seller.
 
I am curious, I kind of expected the slate to doweled, but that was not the case. It seems like it is in really great shape so I am wondering if there is any chance it has been replaced. The only identification on it was a little red and white sticker with a part number on it, but nothing that said brunswick on any of the slates.
 
Honestly I bought it 3rd hand. I do know that they came from a company in Pittsburgh that buys and sells tables from places that are closing up, but that's about all the details I got. The guy I know went out and got 3 tables from them and I paid him, so I never had any interaction with the actual seller.
I know who it is. The tables are solid.
I am curious, I kind of expected the slate to doweled, but that was not the case. It seems like it is in really great shape so I am wondering if there is any chance it has been replaced. The only identification on it was a little red and white sticker with a part number on it, but nothing that said brunswick on any of the slates.
Early 3's had the dowels. the frame sills also were like the 1 & 2, short sill goes in between the long sills. those are the original slates.

TFT
 
So what do you guys do when all of the copper/bronze finish is worn off the castings? It seems a little crazy to replace them, but is there any way to get them back to their original state that doesn't cost as much as replacing them?
 
So what do you guys do when all of the copper/bronze finish is worn off the castings? It seems a little crazy to replace them, but is there any way to get them back to their original state that doesn't cost as much as replacing them?



Powder Coating is a great option and mostly the solution I use.
There is an applicator finder on their site. So many different colors and styles.
I use the "vein" style for castings that are pretty beat up. It has a texture, but, still smooth. Be sure to get a clear coat on all the finishes. Makes it super durable and maintenance is a breeze. Does not peel off or chip.

TFT

p.s. getting them coated back to original will likely be expensive, if its even available in your area. I pay about $250 for powdercoating. takes about 2-3 lbs of powder per job for all the pieces. The rail trims on GC3 are a PAIN to get off, take your time an be careful!
p.s.s. some of the counters a son of bitch to get apart too! Getting every piece of metal on the table makes it look AWESOME IMO
 

Powder Coating is a great option and mostly the solution I use.
There is an applicator finder on their site. So many different colors and styles.
I use the "vein" style for castings that are pretty beat up. It has a texture, but, still smooth. Be sure to get a clear coat on all the finishes. Makes it super durable and maintenance is a breeze. Does not peel off or chip.

TFT

p.s. getting them coated back to original will likely be expensive, if its even available in your area. I pay about $250 for powdercoating. takes about 2-3 lbs of powder per job for all the pieces. The rail trims on GC3 are a PAIN to get off, take your time an be careful!
p.s.s. some of the counters a son of bitch to get apart too! Getting every piece of metal on the table makes it look AWESOME IMO
Thanks Trent, I have been looking at their website. I have a buddy who has access to powder coating and said he could shoot my powder. I was kind of hoping to find a color that was really close to the rail trim because they are in really decent shape already, but I get what you mean making them all the same would be cool.
 
Thanks Trent, I have been looking at their website. I have a buddy who has access to powder coating and said he could shoot my powder. I was kind of hoping to find a color that was really close to the rail trim because they are in really decent shape already, but I get what you mean making them all the same would be cool
Finding a "match" is gonna be hard. This is the closest I have found that I liked. I forget which one it was though!
18491576_621959264680772_2216586948578760004_o.jpg
 
Thanks Trent, I have been looking at their website. I have a buddy who has access to powder coating and said he could shoot my powder. I was kind of hoping to find a color that was really close to the rail trim because they are in really decent shape already, but I get what you mean making them all the same would be cool.
One thing to lookout for with powder coating old cast parts: outgassing. This is more of a concern with the smooth finishes and one of the reasons some choose the textured route because the texture tends to hide the small imperfections. The coater who did my pieces had to do some several times due to outgassing (small blisters/bubbles) in the finish. I went with almost chrome to mimic the anodized aluminum finish of original Gold Crown I's.

49187618258_a2955aee33_b.jpg


49188115421_98e5d4fbb8_b.jpg


52208831917_b9ca463034_b.jpg
 
One thing to lookout for with powder coating old cast parts: outgassing. This is more of a concern with the smooth finishes and one of the reasons some choose the textured route because the texture tends to hide the small imperfections. The coater who did my pieces had to do some several times due to outgassing (small blisters/bubbles) in the finish. I went with almost chrome to mimic the anodized aluminum finish of original Gold Crown I's.

49187618258_a2955aee33_b.jpg


49188115421_98e5d4fbb8_b.jpg


52208831917_b9ca463034_b.jpg
NOT out gassing the parts was likely the issue.
The parts are supposed to be heated up after they are blasted. then cooled, coated and oven again. Its not a one day process.
It takes time for an applicator to figure out what works with his equipment. The learning curve costs sometimes!
I have a new company I am working with and they know whats up!
All metals are different.

I have rarely ever had issues with GC3 parts outgassing.


TFT
 
NOT out gassing the parts was likely the issue.
The parts are supposed to be heated up after they are blasted. then cooled, coated and oven again. Its not a one day process.
It takes time for an applicator to figure out what works with his equipment. The learning curve costs sometimes!
I have a new company I am working with and they know whats up!
All metals are different.

I have rarely ever had issues with GC3 parts outgassing.


TFT
Yup. My guy precooked them and some still outgassed. It's hit and miss with 50+ year old parts.
 
Back
Top